ARCTIC HOST feeler! interested? READ

[jib77]

Jib, do you think you could extend the sides of the board a little ways. I plan on making a "tray" for the PCB to slide into somewhat like the switch holder for most pen builds. Then all I would need to do is find a way to keep the entire assembly from rotating...

You could probably even include a ground contact on one side too, though that wouldn't be entirely necessary. It would be a lot easier than trying to grab from the case pin of the diode though.

I'll model what I'm thinking of if it would help at all, I can't explain things very well in words but I'm getting pretty good with solidworks!

Ok Ive added the grounding pad on the side and a ground via for attaching a wire to the driver. Not sure what you mean by extending the sides, do you want me to make the board wider and increase the distance from the edge of the board to the copper? With the current width, the clearance is 20 mils.

 

[jib77]

Modded for 40mil edges, this is probably the most I can practically do on clearance without making it wider.

 

[Krogith]

I took the opportunity to register to ask questions and give feedback AFTER I read the WHOLE thread and replys. I didn't see clear answers thus my posts in this thread.

1. The switch- I understand the extra work involved and hardware/firmware needed to accomplish this feat. Personally if its for myself and my children, I am willing to put the extra work and effort in to get a desired end product. As far as the switch being 'stupid' - speak for yourself, I like having different power modes with children around!

2. The battery compartment- there was talk of too much extra space in the unit but I wanted to make sure that the section of the unit that houses the batteries wasn't blocked or separated in a way that would hinder the use of different cells.

3. Additional Lense heads- again I didn't notice this answered - I assume that they would be available but to be sure I ASKED!

SO I came to a specialist community to better my knowledge and ask intelligent well thought out questions to better my skills, have some patience and be helpful instead of condescending to people, we were all noobs at one point. My skillsets and knowledge is far from a noob but in the sence of me being on this board i am a noob

Unfortunately I had read the thread between 3-6 am my time and might not have retained all the information I read.

Now that I have ranted for no other reason other than I feel like I was being mocked, I'm going to read the thread over again for a second time.

1: If you don't want it going off on accident.. Remove the battery :beer:..If your children can't handle above a certain mW level as far as your concerned mutuality wise, Then don't give them a laser that can ever do the undesirable power. That way no accident happen. Just make them a lower mW laser. If your children are still to young to figure out a switch code, should they even be handling a powerful laser to begin with??? You act like its a safety feature for you, but you do realise after the "real arctic" is on (after you entered the code) it only takes 1 push to make it go from low power to high. So it's not all that much of a safety feature and more a Gimmick...

2: I don't understand your issue here.... I don't see what your asking really... If it can hold a 18650 then you should be able to understand what it can or can't do to what your thinking battery wise. You will be putting in the driver etc and so it's all under your control... Are you wanting to go from a 18650 to 1 CR123?? Why do you want the different battery cell options? You could make a spacer. If your going from 18650 to 2 CR123's then you better make sure it is set up to be able to do that or you'll blow your diode.

3: If your thinking about the Arctic.. then all you need is diffraction grating to make what ever desired beam your wanting. I again don't understand what your asking... Are you wanting to switch from A Acrylic to a G-1 Lens? I don't see why you would want to change it back and forth, but I'm sure you could if you wanted to.

 

[skygear]

WOW

the code doesn't mean anything to me at all. When we ust the lasers having a secondary setting on a powerful laser is nice to prolong battery life. Currently my children use them in a responsible manner and I'm not worried about the safety aspect here where the switch is concerned

The length of some batteries varries a little and wanted to -ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh- either your dense or I'm not explaining things clearly. Not all batteries are created equal

here is the type of lense/ laser i was refering to ¤Laser Dazzlers,green laser dazzlers, photonic disruptors, 300mw laser dazzlers, 500mw dazzlers laser - Jetlasers I like the beam spread on these

 

[jaylang11]

im down to buy one if the price is right. will there be a rubber cap on the rear clicky? also would i be able to buy another 100% power lens? would this fit the arctic that i already own? i got a little excited when i was cleaning the glass and broke it :yabbem: . or maybe just new glass =).

 

[jib77]

also would i be able to buy another 100% power lens? would this fit the arctic that i already own?

Guys let me "splain"... this is just a host that has the appearance of an Arctic, the insides are completely different. The lenses you are talking about are really filters ... these have no filter just a place for an Aixiz(or G1) collimating lens assembly just like any other direct press kit offered here.

Diode get pressed into the front assembly of the host like this:

The very front is threaded so it can hold the lens assembly, becoming the thing you turn to focus the beam. Once the lens is installed half of it will be sticking out, this screws into the threads from the diode assembly above.

 

[eytyxhs]

I am interested too for this host!

 

[jaylang11]

im still interested if the price is right, i cant wait.

 

[Pontiacg5]

Jib, can you move the ground pad a little more towards the edge? I'm planning on having this board sandwiched in a slot in a piece of aluminum connected directly to the case. If the pad is close enough to the edge I'm thinking a small coat of solder will be all that necessary to get a good ground connection.

If it's too much trouble it's not that big a deal, I'm just thinking it would make one less wire to have to run to the diode.

 

[jib77]

Jib, can you move the ground pad a little more towards the edge? I'm planning on having this board sandwiched in a slot in a piece of aluminum connected directly to the case. If the pad is close enough to the edge I'm thinking a small coat of solder will be all that necessary to get a good ground connection.

If it's too much trouble it's not that big a deal, I'm just thinking it would make one less wire to have to run to the diode.

I think I might be able to trick EaglePCB into doing it. That clearance is a number in the rules and it usually clips everything in that area. But if I use a SMD pad it might allow it. Also a little protrusion in that area of the holder might do the trick too. Ill post back if I can do it.

I can no longer change this first batch since it goes to the fab in the morning. Ill send you one once they come in.

 

[Pontiacg5]

I think I might be able to trick EaglePCB into doing it. That clearance is a number in the rules and it usually clips everything in that area. But if I use a SMD pad it might allow it. Also a little protrusion in that area of the holder might do the trick too. Ill post back if I can do it.

I can no longer change this first batch since it goes to the fab in the morning. Ill send you one once they come in.

Ah, in that case don't worry about it. Thinking about it now I don't think there's a diode that would run in this setup that wouldn't have a good ground connection point on it anyway.

Dang, the boards are on the way. I need to get busy on making some of these things :crackup:

Thanks for all your help Jib! I couldn't have figured out that chip without you!

 

[jib77]

Well for what its worth, looks like it can be done, although the hard limit for the fab is 13mils:

(BTW the grid spacing is 100 mils)

 

[eytyxhs]

when it's ready the Arctic Host? I want it!

 

[Krogith]

when it's ready the Arctic Host? I want it!

This is going take some time everyone. He is still in the designing phase. It's going take time to get it set just right and then to spend the time making them as well. He is doing a very awesome precise and detailed job and we don't want him rushing in any way. Let the man work for a little bit hes got more than just this project in his life as well I'm sure. Thanks again for the work your doing bud:beer: After he makes the unit he will probably have to still tweak a few things before he starts doing the lot for us...

 

[FutureOne]

I'm in no hurry. I already have 2 arctics to play with for now, and a couple of 445mn diodes ordered.

Gonna start on a TNG Phaser project, I'm already salivating just thinking of the finished product. By the time I'm done, hopefully this new host will be done and I can put my other 445 in that one.

 

[lpstealth]

I will still probably buy one of these if they are made but why follow wicked liars and not one-up them

Steal one of their concepts?

Maybe minus the silicone