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Anyone heard of Warrior Tactical Lasers? a.k.a Jay Peoples?

rhd said:
Where / how did you find this guy?
- Is he a member here?
- Does he have a website?
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He was selling on ebay as "lakota_outlaw" and has a facebook page called "warrior tactical laserz". I don't think he is a forum member. His email is xxoglala_outlawxx@yahoo.com and his name is Jay Peoples, but when you email him and he responds, it comes up"jay Mangrum".
 
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smb5769 said:
I had used it a few times in the ten days, once for a few minutes popping a balloon, star pointing and lighting a match, a few the next skypointing again, a couple days later lighting a box on fire, the next used it to fix a switch on my truck, and the last day when it died, for a minute burning a wasp.
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What? How did you "Fix a switch" with a laser?
 
I know I'm a little late to this party, but I just noticed this thread. Jay was a customer of mine earlier this year before he started WTL. I remember him buying quite a few hosts and heat sinks. :D
 
Maybe you can help then. I got clif from cajunlasers to fix it. The diode was fine. He put a mohgasm 1.62 driver in and it worked fine for a while, then died the same way as before, shorted driver. What gives?
 
Haha! No, I don't know if it could take that and didn't even try. Wish it was that simple though. The host holds a Surefire 6P P60 head nicely though. I could have bought a much nicer light for that money though.
 
smb5769 said:
Maybe you can help then. I got clif from cajunlasers to fix it. The diode was fine. He put a mohgasm 1.62 driver in and it worked fine for a while, then died the same way as before, shorted driver. What gives?
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I'd have to see exactly how it was built before I could render any intelligent advice. ;)
 
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Personally I didn't like the way that host is made, with the whole double over under spring thing going on in the head, positive and negative battery contacts waaaaay too close for my comfort. Can't do much more for it I don't believe just because of it's inherit design. I'm curious why it stopped working the second time using only 2 batteries and a 1.6amp board in it this go round. The diode was still good, just to let everyone know, so if Jay was charging him to replace the diode he either didn't bother to check it... or worse?
 
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Garoq said:
I'd have to see exactly how it was built before I could render any intelligent advice. ;)
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That figures. Clif didn't seem to think I'd have much luck with it. It has a p60 style head, reflector and spring assembly with bulb removed and hole drilled through center for wire attachment to springs. What generally causes drivers to short out like that?
 
clif said:
Personally I didn't like the way that host is made, with the whole double over under spring thing going on in the head, positive and negative battery contacts waaaaay too close for my comfort. Can't do much more for it I don't believe just because of it's inherit design. I'm curious why it stopped working the second time using only 2 batteries and a 1.6amp board in it this go round. The diode was still good, just to let everyone know, so if Jay was charging him to replace the diode he either didn't bother to check it... or worse?
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Unless he was just guessing, but it didn't look like he even checked it,sooo... As far as the driver goes, I'm wondering the same as to why it is doing this. This time I pretty well know it got done right, so what is going on? I think it is either the springs or some hidden problem in the whole design. I know there is the o-ring that is a spacer between sink and host, but everything seems grounded from diode case through the driver to negative(?)host body. I might get another driver and try again one day, but right now I'm on a mission to make kids happy... do you know how annoying"its a small world after all" is? On a side note, has anyone ever ridden the" kraken"?
 
smb5769 said:
That figures. Clif didn't seem to think I'd have much luck with it. It has a p60 style head, reflector and spring assembly with bulb removed and hole drilled through center for wire attachment to springs. What generally causes drivers to short out like that?
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Basically contacts or exposed wires that are too close together, that can possibly touch when the build is buttoned up, or from vibration or other movement.
 
Just a heads up, I *think* the Mohgasm driver uses 10V caps, doesn't it?

You wouldn't want to use 3x cells if so.
 
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