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FrozenGate by Avery

3.5W RRGBBV Scanner W/ Beamtable BUILD

I really think you end needing wheels .....









..... cause at the end that assembly will weight a pair of tons, for all the addons, LOL (j/k) ;)
 





andy_con said:
i think your really going to struggle dichro wise.
Click to expand...

I haven't even started down that road yet and I can tell that this is true...but I'm sure I'm going to struggle with allot on this project. It will be worth it in the end..

I was looking at some thorlabs dichros last night and I'm ready if I have to spend $165 for a custom dichro. doesnt mean I'm lookiing forward to it though.:pop:


HIMNL9 said:
I really think you end needing wheels .....

..... cause at the end that assembly will weight a pair of tons, for all the addons, LOL (j/k)
Click to expand...

You would be amazed at how light this HUGE case actually is. Its great :)
 
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Well, i revised a bit my scheme, and just adding a switch, you can do almost all the combinations .....

In the order ..... 100% to left scanner ..... 100% to other optics ..... 100% to right scanner ..... 50/50 to both the scanners together ..... 50% to other optics and 25% to each scanner ..... 50 to other optics and 50 to left scanner ..... in the pics, the switches and commuters that are in orange are the ones turned on for the different paths ..... one of the switches need to be double sided, but all the others are single sided (just for save one :p)

I've not added intentionally "50 to other optic and 50 to right scanner", cause is basically the same combination of the last one, and had required to add at least other 2 FS switches, not worth the expense and the mechanical complication, imho .....

Probably there's a better way for do this set of divisions and combinations, but at the moment it don't come me in mind :p

BTW, about these GM20 switches, is not better to use "guillotine" switches with two-states solenoids, instead lever ones ? ..... or they are used cause the arm take less space and interfer less with the beams ? ..... asking just cause these ones i don't see any way for DIY them cheap, where instead guillotine type units, probably, can be built DIY more easy and cheap (but i'm not sure, how much cost one of these GM20, usually ?)
 

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WOW, Thanks for those diagrams, I wish I could give more rep 2U :)

The GM20's are not cheap. I was able to get them for $80 with a driver(each)


its taking sooooo long to gather all these parts, I just want to start already. :)
 
I'm wondering if something like these ones can be used for DIY something similar to your GM20 .....

Rotary Solenoid 24 VDC 30 degree. Lot of ten pieces - eBay (item 290376984632 end time Jan-01-10 17:45:53 PST)

Anyway, the seller don't say if they are bistable, and for make optic switches, the solenoids must be bistable or have a self-return spring inside, at least ..... other than this, you need to build all the rest, so, don't know if it worth the effort ..... i mean, for someone with machines and free time, it can end in a funny work, but if you need to ask an external worker for all the parts, it may end in a too high price .....

Sorry, those are just some of my crazy ideas :eek: :p
 
HIMNL9 said:
I'm wondering if something like these ones can be used for DIY something similar to your GM20 .....

Rotary Solenoid 24 VDC 30 degree. Lot of ten pieces - eBay (item 290376984632 end time Jan-01-10 17:45:53 PST)

Anyway, the seller don't say if they are bistable, and for make optic switches, the solenoids must be bistable or have a self-return spring inside, at least ..... other than this, you need to build all the rest, so, don't know if it worth the effort ..... i mean, for someone with machines and free time, it can end in a funny work, but if you need to ask an external worker for all the parts, it may end in a too high price .....

Sorry, those are just some of my crazy ideas :eek: :p
Click to expand...

The solenoids wont be as fast as the GM20s , GM20s are galvos and they move at a crazy speed, that's why they are the weapon of choice for beam tables and shutters.
 
Oh ..... but if it's only for the speed, i'm wondering why they don't use guillotine switches, as they are more fast and cheap ..... something like this (very schematic, but i think the principle is clear)

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Edit: or you think that the GM20 can be more fast also than a linear solenoid ? ..... with that long arm, i may suppose not .....
 

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HIMNL9 said:
Oh ..... but if it's only for the speed, i'm wondering why they don't use guillotine switches, as they are more fast and cheap ..... something like this (very schematic, but i think the principle is clear)

attachment.php




Edit: or you think that the GM20 can be more fast also than a linear solenoid ? ..... with that long arm, i may suppose not .....
Click to expand...

GM20 has arms with it too, for mirror mounting, it's fast, it's quiet, it doesn't need much power and it's been tried and tested. :D
 
So, a little update here......



DSC00048.jpg








I have done a little work recently. I started on the back panel with my ILDA and dmx in/out's, power connection/switch, key switch, and some LED's.
DSC00058.jpg


Then I started on the table where I mounted the 4 gm-20's I have here(2 more on the way) and one of three cover interlocks.. I purchased a nice beam launcher from Micro Laser Labs that will split the beam 3 ways and send it out into the room for other effects. I'm still missing some screws to mount the gm-20's to the mounts so they aren't all setup yet.
DSC00056.jpg

DSC00059.jpg

DSC00060.jpg


I still have allot of work and this is only still the very beginning so check back because there will be allot more here soon enough :D

-Brooks
 
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Me either.

I just made a $60 order for various bolts and bits, as soon as that arrives I can do some more work. :)

Check back soon!
 
I bet that no matter what you’re not going to get more then 2.7W after optics if that much. You are going to have a lot of loss, and I belie with test done on pl that it’s better to have reds that pass blue meaning you want to go green blue then red and you cut your losses a lot for both blue and red “I believe”, I forget where the post was but I thought it was interesting. Plus you’re going to want a really good filtration system as its going to suck to have to clean all of those optics...... also I don’t think it would be feasible to run 2 beam shows out of the same projector as since they will be so close together it will just look like 1 projector as it is just with more beams in it so you would be better off going with 1 really fast scanner then 2 in my opinion unless it was directed to that one guy in the center of the audience looking directly at the projector that can see they are spaced 2’ apart.

But despite how I don’t think this is going to work as I agree with Andy your going to be hard pressed to find thos optics it will be a good project and be interesting when it’s done.

So good luck and remember no matter what it will be a great learning experience and hopefully you will have fun and that is what matters.
 
Don't take any "real" info from that first drawing, I made that before I really started planning anything. Almost everything has changed but I wanted to leave it up to demonstrate my "idea"
Those SP20's are going to be 1)DT40 wide(tuned to 30) and 1)DT30..Both are GREAT scanners.
...also I know that there will be losses, of course it will be less :P
The dichros were difficult but I already have them sourced so its only a problem of $$$ now and that's only a matter of time. :)

Regarding running 2 beam shows at once, its only for simple beams and and the more complex the show gets the worse it will look, but its a great effect and something that nobody else has,It's also going to be the very last thing I add to the laser.

The case will have 4-6 filtered fans all sucking into the case and blowing out the VERY LARGE opening in the front of the case. This isn't for cooling but to try and keep as much dust away from the optics as possible

-Brooks
 
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I have a Semrock 650/630 combiner, I can speak highly of it, but we needed 20+ people in the PhotonLexicon group buy to get the cost of a coating run down. I'm remembering 150$ and shipping for the group buy price, and 435$ for one...

Guys, when you look at the transmission curves, Edmund's dichros are often crap. everybody goes to Edmund just because they are a bit easier to order from. There is better stuff out there from places like One Stop Laser Shop etc..

Steve
 
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