- Aug 30, 2010
Thanks again guys! Jerry the host is awesome man. It feels like one of the larger, more sophisticated hosts by the way it's been deisgned - except miniaturized!! :beer:
Thanks and you're welcome!! I've followed & learned from only the best, I should be thanking you. I know what you mean also about its lifespan at 1W, it fears me to think that it could go anytime :angel:Nice build and tutorial. Thanks for sharing.:beer:
Keep us updated on the life of the unit. I had a 1W unit that I built but it only lasted a few weeks with minimal use.:cryyy:
Also I did not see it say what current the driver is set to?
Thanks Angelos!! Feels good to be in the club, hopefully now they wont charge me for parking anymore!:crackup:Welcome to the 1W 405nm Club.:wave:
You got yourself a Great diode there. 650mA and putting out over 1W is Very good.
Thanks, and so far it hasn't helped! I've been unpacking, redoing plumbing, adding shelves, installing electricity, rebuilding my studio, ect for 2 months until about a week ago. If it weren't for this place I'd have 10 new lasers by now!I love it!
Now I want 1.
Nice work, maybe your new house helps.
Generally yes, however in this case I needed to use a thick layer so the resistors that stick up off both sides of the PCB on the driver do not touch the aluminum pill. The thermal compound provides maximum heat transfer with no conductivity, if I could stick the aluminum heatsink directly on the drivers' main resistors that quickly heat up without shorting the circuit out believe me I would :beer:A nice thick layer of compound is used for maximum bonding & heat transfer
Shouldn't the thermal adhesive used be as thin as possible just to cover up all the microscopic gaps in the metals? This is from my experience with desktop CPUs, where a thick layer of thermal paste will have poorer thermal performance then a properly done thin layer.
Thanks piferal! I hope it lasts too!Very nice build, tutorial, and power, 1W :beer:
You got a very efficient diode here, I hope yours run for many hours :yh:
+1 for you
Solder does not stick to aluminum at all, I do not have the battery contact soldered to the pill. It may look that way in the picture but that is not the case, I have solder on the edge of the battery contact that creates a conductive wedge between the board and the pill :beer:strange, cannot find my old post...
I was saying that I found it very hard to solder on the aluminum cases too, it seems it
just don't like to stick on to the metal.