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FrozenGate by Avery

Zoombie 445nm laser right out of the box






LuxorLasers747 said:
Your right, the top of the pot is missing! but i dont understand.. it keeps outputing 1.5A xD
Click to expand...

How did you break the pot off.?


So if you dint hook it up to a testload and hooked it up directly to the diode how do you know its putting out 1.5A. It makes no sense.:thinking:

Well iam guessing that your driver is not putting out 1.5A. Since you have no longer a pot on there to adjust the current maybe you can contact Dr. Lava and see what ohm's pot he uses and replace it.:)

Then i would get a testload and hopefully if you successfully swap out the old broken pot with the replacement one correctly you can adjust it to 1.5A.

I think this is your problem.
 
HEY

Get some thermal paste around that aiXis head. That's what makes your heatsink.. well.. effective.
 
Hopefully this isnt insulting but have you tried using it with a lens? Just want to get that question out of the way.

Also if your pot is broken and you have no test load....you have no reason to think its outputting 1.5A
 
Hey I did not see you respond to my advice about the shrink tubing. If there is a short there you will fry your driver and possibly your diode as well. I just want to make sure you read that part.:beer:

pict0029s.jpg
 
Just see Anselms film of a 445nm laser without lenses!

Yes all 445 laser have a beam profile like that...the M^2 of this little things in one of the axis is bad as hell and plus its all multi-mode in there.

also check:
Is there something wrong with the beam from my 445??

i dont believe ur other 445 laser had a clean output...all of them are like this without lenses or unfocused!

just collimate the laser and see if it is able to burn anything...if it even cant light a match then its not running at 1.5A nor near that current.

hope this helps

*edit* and by ur pic, and if anselms video can be taken as quite regular for this diodes, it looks like ur running ur diode between 300 to 500mA
 
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UltraFire and TrustFire batteries are not good to use for lasers being driven over 700mA. The driver will get really hot and start to pulse with these batteries. Believe me I have had plenty of experience with these batteries in 1 watt and greater lasers. Try an AW or Redilast 2600 or 2900mAH 18650 instead.
 
Cenobite9 said:
UltraFire and TrustFire batteries are not good to use for lasers being driven over 700mA.
Click to expand...

I've never had any trouble with UltraFire or TrustFire batteries. Whether it's 3x10440s, 2x16340s, or 1x18650 - running them all the way up to 1500 mA, I've never seen any battery issues.

I remember seeing a chart on here somewhere, of the current-delivery capabilities of common lithium ions compared. I remember being underwhelmed by the differences between cheap UF and TF batteries, and the "high end" alternatives. Don't quote me, but I think it was +/- 10%, and not always in favour of the presumably better batteries.

I know that some people are sensitive about their battery choices, but regardless of the potential credibility of that debate, I don't think the diode issue you may or may not be having, is due to using UF or TF batteries. Lots of other people use them here too.
 
I was about to that, cuz i notice that thre are some gaps between the module andthe heatsink. thanks man
 
The biggest concerns I see here so far are:

1) Without a pot, you cannot adjust or set the current

2) Without a test load and a DMM you cannot measure the current unless you wire a DMM between the driver and the diode.

What this means is that we have no idea what current is being given to the diode. Until we can set and measure the current, speculation is useless.

Do you have a DMM?

Peace,
dave
 
In your pictures I don't see a lens on your diode. Did you for get a lens?

Also your driver doesn't have a pot so it might be outputting very low.

Without a test load there is no way to test your output.
 
For future reference, try not to solder to lithium primaries or rechargeables.

Nosebleed, LK posted a link earlier in this thread, you might be interested.
 
daguin said:
The biggest concerns I see here so far are:

1) Without a pot, you cannot adjust or set the current

2) Without a test load and a DMM you cannot measure the current unless you wire a DMM between the driver and the diode.

What this means is that we have no idea what current is being given to the diode. Until we can set and measure the current, speculation is useless.

Do you have a DMM?

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...
hey. i did set the current and the pot was alright. but dont understant one thing, why cant i use the laser as a test load? doesnt the test load simulate the resistance of the diode?

Whats u mean by DMM
 
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