"X-Load" A Custom 10A Testload All-In-One Unit

[lazeerer]

Thanks Guys. Happy you like it.:wave:

Have you actually tested it at 20A, or even 10A for that matter? I highly doubt it will survive that without desoldering itself or popping that tiny jumper.

Did you miss the start of the thread with the text.?

:beer:

Now before i go into the pictures i want to say that I got a little excited with the "AMP" rating and called it a 20A Testload. I can say now there is No way this Testload is going to take 20A.!LOL It can take ~ 3A without a heatsink on the 1 ohm Resistor. That is the main Issue and only issue with heat really the diodes can take it pretty good but the 1 ohm resistor cant. The 1 ohm resistor gets so hot it will desolider itself.LOL It happened to my Jib Testload So i new it will happen here.

So what i did was i left exposed copper on the bottom where it was needed and i plain on mounting the Testload entire bottom on a heatsink "Then" it will be installed in the case. Even then i would probably only be able to dump around 10A into it for a few minutes.

However i designed it so that i can also use this Testload without the case and with the 4 screw mounts i can mount it to heatsink i have in mind. "More on that bellow" That should allow me to run it continuous at ~10A or possible more with no issue.

It can take ~3A with no heatsink.
It can take ~5-6A with a small heatsink put on top of the 1 ohm resistor.

I have not made the heatsink yet that will mount on the bottom but iam sure it will have no probably doing 10A.

You could switch to a 0.1ohm resistor instead of 1ohm pretty easy. All you have to do is change the voltage divider so it reads up to 1.9999v but leave the decimal point selector in the same spot so the amps display correctly.

10w in the resistor at 10A is much more reasonable than 100w. Also the 1ohm resistor alone would be dropping 10v, I doubt any 10A driver you are making will handle a load that high

When i have time messing with that i will. For now this has no problems for what iam doing with a small heatsink.

The Accuracy of a .1ohm resistor will get very expensive and i dont think they come in this package device.

If my Jib 3A testload can do 7A heatsinked then this will have no problem.


Some times its better to keep things simple.

 

[Just4FunReally]

Amazing test load! I haven't been this impressed since I saw those DIY'ers make their own LPM's using those arduinos. Also going to be handing out the PCB spares when you're done? Too kind . +1 when I can.

Have you actually tested it at 20A, or even 10A for that matter? I highly doubt it will survive that without desoldering itself or popping that tiny jumper.

Playing devil's advocate again I see Cypa. Thank you for that, it's not a loved roll but someone needs to do it .

 

[grainde]

Great job Angelos! Really nice and clean set up and I like the idea of not having to hook up the DMM with x thousand wires and croc clips...Ok slight exaggeration The oscilloscope out pins are a nice touch too +1 if I can :beer:

 

[Lazerbeak]

Super clean Lazeerer :beer:

~ LB

 

[djQUAN]

You could switch to a 0.1ohm resistor instead of 1ohm pretty easy. All you have to do is change the voltage divider so it reads up to 1.9999v but leave the decimal point selector in the same spot so the amps display correctly.

10w in the resistor at 10A is much more reasonable than 100w. Also the 1ohm resistor alone would be dropping 10v, I doubt any 10A driver you are making will handle a load that high

Same thing I posted above.

you can use a lower ohm resistor (0.1ohm) and use a 2V FS panel meter and move the decimal place jumper so it still displays correctly in Amps. Or if you want even more current handling capacity, use an even lower resistance shunt (10 mOhm) and more sensitive 200mV FS meter.

As for thermal connection to a heatsink, an option that is less permanent than thermal epoxy (something like this but cut a little thinner could work.

The Accuracy of a .1ohm resistor will get very expensive and i dont think they come in this package device.

Absolute accuracy of the shunt isn't necessary. You'd just need an accurate multimeter or amp meter in series with the test load for initial calibration and adjust the panel meter to display the same value as your reference amp meter.

 

[awillis2589]

Another work of art!!

 

[lazeerer]

Great job Angelos! Really nice and clean set up and I like the idea of not having to hook up the DMM with x thousand wires and croc clips...Ok slight exaggeration The oscilloscope out pins are a nice touch too +1 if I can :beer:

Thanks. I just wanted something very simple. I will probably only use it to test my drivers.

Iam working on a Panel that will have pins similar to what i use now to test my drivers out without having to solder to them.

I might make the panel really large and make like 4-5 rows and each row have a dedicated Testload and Panel under it.

So rather then testing 1 driver at a time i can test 4.

Though i will have to make a few of these since not all my drivers board have the pad holes in the same spot. Will see.

Super clean Lazeerer :beer:

~ LB

THanks

Another work of art!!

Weeee.




Thanks for doubting me Ben.:beer: Ive never had a problem testing my 15A driver before on a Testload with a 1 ohm resistor.

 

[clif]

It can take ~3A with no heatsink.
It can take ~5-6A with a small heatsink put on top of the 1 ohm resistor.

I have not made the heatsink yet that will mount on the bottom but iam sure it will have no probably doing 10A.

With the way these new diodes are heading that's gonna be a necessity soon! :beer:

 

[Cyparagon]

Did you miss the start of the thread with the text.?

To be honest, I skipped most of it because the center justification made me angry. :yabbem:

Even so, I was referring to the heat of the diodes as I assumed you used a <100mOhm. Surely you would have realized when you designed this that a 1 ohm would drop 20V at 20A and be useless even if heat wasn't an issue.

The Accuracy of a .1ohm resistor will get very expensive and i dont think they come in this package device.

You should research shunts, or just ammeters in general. They're cheaper and simpler than you think they are.

Send your final design to me for testing if you like. I've got incredibly beefy power supplies as well as thermal imaging.

 

[LaZeRz]

Nice job Angelos! +1.

It seems you're always coming up with new things and testing various components. One of the forum's greatest pioneers

Goodluck perfecting the test load, should save you a lot of time and make constructing drivers a lot easier. Btw, have you considered rechargeable 9v batteries or a 9v wall transformer? Might save you a bit of money in the long run.

 

[offroadfreak8582]

Wow man looks awesome. All your work looks so awesome i don't know how fast to read every thread you post.

thanks for sharing this amazing testload!

greetings,,

 

[ped]

A GIF for the Gifmeister that seems fitting.

No names mentioned of course

 

[DJNY]

But it´s SO hard to read ​

 

[benmwv]

Hey man you really have a drive putting out 15A at 15v!

Sounds awesome. Got any pictures of that beast?

Buck or boost?

 

[Cyparagon]

But it´s SO hard to read ​

 

[DJNY]

Back2topic!