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FrozenGate by Avery

WTB: Battery-Contact Boards for Heatsinks

Dark_Horse

Dark_Horse

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Joined
Dec 26, 2007
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I am looking for some 14mm-15mm (.550"-.600") diameter contact-boards for my heatsinks. These would just need to be simple round-boards with a copper-pad in the middle to contact the battery-anode. even better would be to have a small-hole near the pad in the middle to solder a wire to the driver, but I could provide this.

I would need 100pcs at a time. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Barry
 





I was thinking about the AMC7135 idea that Kenom mentioned aswell
 
If you can put together a quick sketch of what you need, I could throw a design together in Eagle (PCB design software) and you can then convert it into a board, and order from somewere like BatchPCB (or if it takes up enough space, you could get a whole panel made from China). I'd suggest making a couple of different sketches and doing a test order from BatchPCB, to see which one fits your purpose best, and then order one of the designs from a Chinese fab-company (if the size is large enough to make it cheaper than BatchPCB). One thing you may find is that BatchPCB are cheaper than a Chinese fab-house because of the large setup costs associated.

Also, if you remember we discussed the torch design a couple of weeks ago, I'm going to be making my design in Solidworks tomorrow, I'll PM you or email as soon as I've finished it.

EDIT: Unless the BatchPCB design manages to be under $0.85 shipped, it's cheaper to just get the DX boards and de-solder the chips. I ordered a 20-pack of similar drivers recently, I'll let you know how easy it is to strip the components.
 
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you could always etch your own barry. buy some pcb sheets and use the iron on method for the toner transfer. once the esign is etched you can use a solution of muratic acid and peroxide to etch the boards. i found that if you warm the acid/peroxide solution it makes the boards have much cleaner lines.
 
Hey Barry, what about salvaging PCB's out of old electronic items & trim off the components with cutters. Then buy a keyhole drill the size you need, & just start punching out your own boards. Any residual solder or wires could be melted off 1st with a propane torch. Just an idea.................rob
 
I do some thing very simallar to this, I rip the power supply section out of electroic equipment and make my battery contacts out of the good aeras from that board as the traces are wider in the power supply section. I just cut out the section I needwith adremelndthenshapeit round, what a hassel but they turn out very nice.
barry maby you would like to go in on a group buy with me LOL from some ckt brd mfr to get some of different sizes made ?

Have a good day all.....

phoenix77 said:
Hey Barry, what about salvaging PCB's out of old electronic items & trim off the components with cutters. Then buy a keyhole drill the size you need, & just start punching out your own boards. Any residual solder or wires could be melted off 1st with a propane torch. Just an idea.................rob
Click to expand...
 
Kenom said:
ya know bud, I would think the easiest thing to do would be to buy the drivers from DX like these DealExtreme: $16.68 Quality AMC7135 350mA Regulated Circuit Board for DIY Flashlights 20-Pack and then pull the two components off the board and trim it down a little. you can use the amc7135 for something else at that time. Or, you can download Pad2Pad - Custom Printed Circuit Board Manufacturer and submit to have your own made up for you.
Click to expand...

I have built many lasers using a stripped AMC-driver from DX, as I know many others have. The problem is that the heatsinks for my Sliver (Cree C3) and most other 1xaa-sized hosts are only a tiny-bit larger than the AMC-board, which makes for a paper-thin section on the back-end of the heatsink. Not to mention, it always seams like such a waste of a great driver to do this, even though the price is still very reasonable.

I am thinking I will just bite the bullet and try using my CNC-router to cut some copper-clad into circles, with tabs, and etch my own. I was just hoping for a suitable "turn-key" solution, I really don't need another project right now.

The up-side to making my own is I could design them exactly as I want them. For instance, it would be nice to have the pad for wiring the board to the driver to be offset a little from the actual anode-contact-pad, so that the battery-anode is not resting directly against the solder-conection for the driver, (still connected by a trace though of course).
Toner-transfer to the rescue again :)

I will draw something up and see if we can get some boards made out of China too.

I will keep you updated on my efforts.

Thanks for all replys,
Barry
 
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