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FrozenGate by Avery

What is going on?

Ivan is a great member here. I have worked with him before and you couldn't find a nicer guy anywhere on the planet. My ONLY problem was trying to ship to Russia. It was an enormous PITA. + rep
 





Ivan is a great member here. I have worked with him before and you couldn't find a nicer guy anywhere on the planet. My ONLY problem was trying to ship to Russia. It was an enormous PITA. + rep

Please, stop flattering me :yh:
Well, I will not get back my offer so please decide who would be the one I will be sending it to since you both don't mind it. Feel free to PM me once you are ready.

PS I forgot to mention that a long time ago a have had some troubles with GLP-594 from laserglow. The first one was hopping with power around 0.1mW, the second one (after returning the first GLP back to laserglow) has power level around 1mW when it is supposed to be 5mW.
What I want to say -- don't play with buying GLPs unless they are using diodes as a lasing source, this is a big lottery.
If you have some money, consider buying PGL-III-C solution instead.
Yes, it is bigger, but those are far more stable and even more easy to align than spartans.

Ivan.
 
Please, stop flattering me :yh:
Well, I will not get back my offer so please decide who would be the one I will be sending it to since you both don't mind it. Feel free to PM me once you are ready.

PS I forgot to mention that a long time ago a have had some troubles with GLP-594 from laserglow. The first one was hopping with power around 0.1mW, the second one (after returning the first GLP back to laserglow) has power level around 1mW when it is supposed to be 5mW.
What I want to say -- don't play with buying GLPs unless they are using diodes as a lasing source, this is a big lottery.
If you have some money, consider buying PGL-III-C solution instead.
Yes, it is bigger, but those are far more stable and even more easy to align than spartans.

Ivan.

Yeah, the PGL's are a much better host for any exotic wavelengths, that's for sure. Surprisingly my 594 has actually been amazingly good. Very bright, slight to no power drops to the point of no output. One issue tends to be the batteries don't always tend to make very good contact with the driver board so some shaking is needed to get a proper contact. Will do!

-Alex
 
I did another final test, and actually, it looks like my 473 really enjoys the cold better then warm. Isn't this unique for DPSSL's? I read of Zraffle's 561 that also liked the cold as well.

When running it for any longer then 30 seconds it appears to drop in power to around 2mW's. If starting it up from a cold host, I can usually get around 4mW-5mW's.

Any thoughts? Should I return it for another one, or is this normal? I'm worried about the time in suddenly dropped in power one night when taking pictures. :(

-Alex
 
I did another final test, and actually, it looks like my 473 really enjoys the cold better then warm. Isn't this unique for DPSSL's? I read of Zraffle's 561 that also liked the cold as well.

When running it for any longer then 30 seconds it appears to drop in power to around 2mW's. If starting it up from a cold host, I can usually get around 4mW-5mW's.

Any thoughts? Should I return it for another one, or is this normal? I'm worried about the time in suddenly dropped in power one night when taking pictures. :(

-Alex

The SS part of the DPSS laser shouldn't like being cool, and it's the major power bottleneck. Only possible way the SS crystals would benefit is if thermal expansion is causing an issue which isn't hugely likely in this case.

The diode and electronics however should. If they're causing power reduction, there's some sort of failing component.

If you can return it, it's up to you. Otherwise, it shouldn't be a huge deal and shouldn't completely fail for a long time under normal use. The diminished power will likely always be an issue though.
 
The SS part of the DPSS laser shouldn't like being cool, and it's the major power bottleneck. Only possible way the SS crystals would benefit is if thermal expansion is causing an issue which isn't hugely likely in this case.

The diode and electronics however should. If they're causing power reduction, there's some sort of failing component.

If you can return it, it's up to you. Otherwise, it shouldn't be a huge deal and shouldn't completely fail for a long time under normal use. The diminished power will likely always be an issue though.

Thanks Rivem!

Yeah, DPSSL are pretty complicated. I've gotten spoiled with diode lasers I supposed :D

-Alex
 
Thanks Rivem!

Yeah, DPSSL are pretty complicated. I've gotten spoiled with diode lasers I supposed :D

-Alex

That's the truth. 520nm has been a godsend for cold astronomy nights compared to 532nm. This weekend was probably the last reasonable time for me to use DPSS, so only direct diodes will be in the scope case now. Probably just need something lower power.
 
That's the truth. 520nm has been a godsend for cold astronomy nights compared to 532nm. This weekend was probably the last reasonable time for me to use DPSS, so only direct diodes will be in the scope case now. Probably just need something lower power.

Rivem, I have a question. If I were to make myself a 505 pointer, using this host DIY Laser Pointer Pen Housing/Casing/Host for 12mm Laser Diode Module | eBay which takes 2xAAA's for a total input of 3V's. Would that be enough to power this diode? https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/sharp-505nm-35mw-green-laser-diodes

-Alex
 
Rivem, I have a question. If I were to make myself a 505 pointer, using this host DIY Laser Pointer Pen Housing/Casing/Host for 12mm Laser Diode Module | eBay which takes 2xAAA's for a total input of 3V's. Would that be enough to power this diode? https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/sharp-505nm-35mw-green-laser-diodes

-Alex

Yeah. Not ideal with AAAs at the higher power end, but it'd work as long as you have the boost driver.

I'd go with the Laser66 host though since it's got marginally better thermal properties and looks nicer. Paul has said they run hot a few times already.

Edit: Good battery alternative with DTR's driver would be 10440 with spacer for likely much better performance.
 
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Yeah. Not ideal with AAAs at the higher power end, but it'd work as long as you have the boost driver.

I'd go with the Laser66 host though since it's got marginally better thermal properties and looks nicer. Paul has said they run hot a few times already.

Edit: Good battery alternative with DTR's driver would be 10440 with spacer for likely much better performance.

I really like those Laser66 hosts! Perfect! Will the module fit in there snug, or is there a way to hold it in there?

Thank you! :)

-Alex
 
I really like those Laser66 hosts! Perfect! Will the module fit in there snug, or is there a way to hold it in there?

Thank you! :)

-Alex

You'd have to press them for most pens, so it should be very snug. Might want to ask other members how they press them though. Only time I did it, I had to use a vice.
 
Hi, Hap
I ran that diode in a pen i machined with a nano set to 275ma (505nm) can out awesome. And i did a 480nm also at the same 275ma.

Rich:)
 

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You'd have to press them for most pens, so it should be very snug. Might want to ask other members how they press them though. Only time I did it, I had to use a vice.

Yea Rivem, a vise works fine for pressing modules. For my custom builds I just use a standard 4" drill press vise, simple enough. I'm not sure what the specs of the interference fit on Alex's host will be though, so you might either need better pressing equipment or stronger man power, if it's a smaller diameter module bay than usual. I doubt it'd be that bad though.
 
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Yea Rivem, a vise works fine for pressing modules. For my custom builds I just use a standard 4" drill press vise, simple enough. I'm not sure what the specs of the interference fit on Alex's host will be though, so you might either need better pressing equipment or stronger man power, if it's a smaller diameter module bay than usual. I doubt it'd be that bad though.


Seconded on the drill press vice! That's what I've been using to press diodes and modules. Makes a decent holder for boards and stuff too.

As for batteries, I'd recommend the Energizer lithium AAAs if you're using a boost driver. They're not rechargeable but the performance is much better than standard alkaline AAAs. They can provide the necessary current for a boost driver quite happily and consistently.
 
Thank you guys.

Honestly, the 473 is still operating within what's it's rated as by CNI 0.6mW-5mW's. I spoke to Matt and said these things were ever meant to put out more then 2-3mW's. Is it possible that 6mW peak was just a freak output? I can sometimes get it back up to 5mW very shortly if started from a cold start. :yh:

-Alex
 
Seconded on the drill press vice! That's what I've been using to press diodes and modules. Makes a decent holder for boards and stuff too.

Alright good to know what you guys used because my interference fit was way tighter that I expected. I wasn't sure if you had alt methods since not everybody has a vise.

Thank you guys.

Honestly, the 473 is still operating within what's it's rated as by CNI 0.6mW-5mW's. I spoke to Matt and said these things were ever meant to put out more then 2-3mW's. Is it possible that 6mW peak was just a freak output? I can sometimes get it back up to 5mW very shortly if started from a cold start. :yh:

-Alex

Maybe. It's possible your driver had something going on where it was overpowering the diode, and it may have just gone back to normal. Either way, your output still sounds fine, so I'd recommend keeping it at least until you can find a diode version again.
 


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