jayrob
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Tutorial: 12X 'Ice Box' Blu-Ray With TEC! - Step by Step
Update:
Just put a 12X diode in my blu-ray 'Ice Box' TEC build...
The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.
The custom copper module is of course threaded for my 405-G-1 glass lens assembly.
1/2" Copper modules available here!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-custom-copper-module-aixiz-threads-50116.html
I have it set at a fairly conservative setting for longevity. (hopefully)
The idea is to have long run times, keeping the diode at or just below ambient temperature. Not over cooling or causing any condensation...
396mA's / 530mW's
Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half:
The blue light on the side is the Li-Po alarm. It changes colors as the batteries get lower and lower...
LiPo Alarm color code:
Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)
Here is a tutorial of my 'Ice Box' TEC build... (before I upgraded it to a 12X)
I started with a PHR diode to experiment with the build, and have now upgraded it to a 12X, but nothing has changed in the build shown below. Just the current setting and diode. :beer:
I thought I would condense the step by step portion of the other thread into a ‘tutorial’ of this TEC build… (Now housing a 12X diode)
A guy could easily build a similar design using cheaper parts. (like AixiZ module instead of Meredith, different drivers, different batteries with no need for a LiPo alarm)
The peltiers are cheap. So is the box, fan, and heatsink. The big expense is because I want to use FlexDrives, twin LiPo's with alarm, and a 405-G-1 glass lens with a 12X diode...
Here are some links for you!
Peltiers: peltier junction, Business Industrial. Great deals on eBay!
Blower Fan (sucks from the bottom and blows out the side): 40MM 5VDC CENTRIFUGAL BLOWER | AllElectronics.com
(this fan fits inside the Peltier heatsink with very little modification)!
Heatsink: SOLD-OUT | AllElectronics.com
Meredith page: Meredith Instruments
Box: Digi-Key - HM151-ND (Manufacturer - 1590B)
Batteries: Thunder Power 1320-2s Pro Lite
LiPo Alarm: Spectrum LiPo Battery Monitor (WRL-SPECL)
….Starting the Blu-ray Ice Box now and I will show some pictures if anybody ever wants to follow this project...
The heatsinks that came with the peltiers, will be used as a 'base' for the Ice Box build.
Overview of box and base parts with fan and heatsink.
Heatsink fins through the bottom... I put some holes in the box, as well as the lid. I figure that some ventilation couldn't hurt right?
The fan fits nicely inside the peltier heatsink/base piece with very little modification! Just use some double sided tape...
The other base piece will house the switch and main wiring harness. As well as the LiPo alarm.
It's great how the base pieces are such a nice fit for the box!
….Next steps! - Here's some more pictures as this new build progresses...
Dual FlexDrives mounted with easy access to the pots!
Here you see the 7805 regulators. There are a couple of things I would like to mention here...
* I figure that probably just one regulator could have been used to power the two drivers as well as the fan, but I found them to be a nice way to mount the Flexdrives! They are cheap enough anyway...
* Notice the thin Mica sheet in between the peltier and the 7805 regulators. (to give a little insulation there)
* Notice also the little heatsink on top of the metal (heatsink) parts of the 7805 regulators... I put this there for two reasons, to give some more heatsinking for the regulators, and also to further 'stabilize' the build, linking the two drivers together and making the mount strong. (The metal back/heatsinks on the 7805 voltage regulators, are 'ground', so they can be connected together. Since the drivers are running in parallel from the same battery supply, they are already electrically connected)
The Meredith mounting block has the set screw on the side. This won't do, because when it's all together, you can't get to the set screw. So, just a little modification to the block...
The 5 volt fan will be given it's own regulator too! Might as well, they are not expensive.
Note: At the finish of this project, I found that using 3 separate 7805 voltage regulators robbed too much of my supply voltage. So, the fix was to run only two separate voltage regulators. One for the Peltier driver, and the other one runs both the fan, as well as the driver for the LD. Works perfectly!
….I just finished up the wiring. Seems to be the most tedious part...
Build tip: Beam alignment! Before you adhere the peltier and assembled parts onto the peltier heatsink, I recommend...
* Setting the diode driver to a low current, like 80mA's or so.
* Having the supply leads to the LD driver available to test. (ends striped)
* Adjust focus, and position module with set screw.
Now... Once everything is ready, mix the Arctic Silver adhesive and spread a thin layer on the heatsink.
Hold the Ice Box against a wall, and pointing toward a corner, use a single 3.0 volt lithium battery (or 3.6 ), to light up the LD so you can make sure your assembly is glued on straight by checking to see if the beam is 'straight', and the dot hits the corner at where it should. You will have maybe 5 minutes to make this adjustment before the Arctic silver adhesive sets up.
You not only want the beam to be straight, but you want to make sure that the module protrudes through the box, without touching the box. As the module is cooled, but the box is not.
(other adjustments in beam alignment can be made by simply loosening the module set screw, and turning the module)
….Just got it all buttoned up!
I have my peltier set at 546mA’s, the fan draws about 192mA’s...
Armed with this information, I am going to go ahead and do some adjustments in my wiring to disable one of the 7805 regulators. Then I will bring leads from the 7805 voltage regulator at the fan, to the FlexDrive for the LD…
Schweet success! The peltier driver has it’s own 7805 voltage regulator, and the LD driver and the fan share another now.
It is very stable with my twin 7.4 volt LiPo packs in parallel. I did a 5 minute run at 186mA's. (PHR diode) It was rock steady at 166mW's. (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened) The temperature of the block DROPPED 2.5 degrees during the 5 minute test run! It was noticeably cooler to the touch.
Awesome!
….I'm now the proud father of healthy twins! I'm going to leave the settings as they are for a while and see how it goes...
I am amazed at the result of the 5 minute test run of the blu-ray Ice Box @ 186mA's! (PHR diode) To go for 5 minutes at this current, and the temperature of the Meredtih mounting block actually got LOWER! This will be the future home of a 12X diode!
For now, the PHR is giving a steady 209mW's through my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22497
The Long open can red is giving 316mW's through the Meredith glass lens...
I know.... all the labels and stuff look kind of 'cheesy'. But it's important information to keep track of. This way, I don't have to go looking for it...
….Beam shots!
I should have used a tripod for the camera though...
Jay
Here's a 20' match light video from my red 'Ice Box' laser...
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
Update:
Just put a 12X diode in my blu-ray 'Ice Box' TEC build...
The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.
The custom copper module is of course threaded for my 405-G-1 glass lens assembly.
1/2" Copper modules available here!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-custom-copper-module-aixiz-threads-50116.html
I have it set at a fairly conservative setting for longevity. (hopefully)
The idea is to have long run times, keeping the diode at or just below ambient temperature. Not over cooling or causing any condensation...
396mA's / 530mW's
Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half:
The blue light on the side is the Li-Po alarm. It changes colors as the batteries get lower and lower...
LiPo Alarm color code:
Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)
Here is a tutorial of my 'Ice Box' TEC build... (before I upgraded it to a 12X)
I started with a PHR diode to experiment with the build, and have now upgraded it to a 12X, but nothing has changed in the build shown below. Just the current setting and diode. :beer:
I thought I would condense the step by step portion of the other thread into a ‘tutorial’ of this TEC build… (Now housing a 12X diode)
A guy could easily build a similar design using cheaper parts. (like AixiZ module instead of Meredith, different drivers, different batteries with no need for a LiPo alarm)
The peltiers are cheap. So is the box, fan, and heatsink.
The big expense is because I want to use FlexDrives, twin LiPo's with alarm, and a 405-G-1 glass lens with a 12X diode...Here are some links for you!
Peltiers: peltier junction, Business Industrial. Great deals on eBay!
Blower Fan (sucks from the bottom and blows out the side): 40MM 5VDC CENTRIFUGAL BLOWER | AllElectronics.com
(this fan fits inside the Peltier heatsink with very little modification)!
Heatsink: SOLD-OUT | AllElectronics.com
Meredith page: Meredith Instruments
Box: Digi-Key - HM151-ND (Manufacturer - 1590B)
Batteries: Thunder Power 1320-2s Pro Lite
LiPo Alarm: Spectrum LiPo Battery Monitor (WRL-SPECL)
….Starting the Blu-ray Ice Box now and I will show some pictures if anybody ever wants to follow this project...
The heatsinks that came with the peltiers, will be used as a 'base' for the Ice Box build.
Overview of box and base parts with fan and heatsink.
Heatsink fins through the bottom... I put some holes in the box, as well as the lid. I figure that some ventilation couldn't hurt right?
The fan fits nicely inside the peltier heatsink/base piece with very little modification! Just use some double sided tape...
The other base piece will house the switch and main wiring harness. As well as the LiPo alarm.
It's great how the base pieces are such a nice fit for the box!
….Next steps! - Here's some more pictures as this new build progresses...
Dual FlexDrives mounted with easy access to the pots!
Here you see the 7805 regulators. There are a couple of things I would like to mention here...
* I figure that probably just one regulator could have been used to power the two drivers as well as the fan, but I found them to be a nice way to mount the Flexdrives! They are cheap enough anyway...
* Notice the thin Mica sheet in between the peltier and the 7805 regulators. (to give a little insulation there)
* Notice also the little heatsink on top of the metal (heatsink) parts of the 7805 regulators... I put this there for two reasons, to give some more heatsinking for the regulators, and also to further 'stabilize' the build, linking the two drivers together and making the mount strong. (The metal back/heatsinks on the 7805 voltage regulators, are 'ground', so they can be connected together. Since the drivers are running in parallel from the same battery supply, they are already electrically connected)
The Meredith mounting block has the set screw on the side. This won't do, because when it's all together, you can't get to the set screw. So, just a little modification to the block...
The 5 volt fan will be given it's own regulator too! Might as well, they are not expensive.
Note: At the finish of this project, I found that using 3 separate 7805 voltage regulators robbed too much of my supply voltage. So, the fix was to run only two separate voltage regulators. One for the Peltier driver, and the other one runs both the fan, as well as the driver for the LD. Works perfectly!
….I just finished up the wiring. Seems to be the most tedious part...
Build tip: Beam alignment! Before you adhere the peltier and assembled parts onto the peltier heatsink, I recommend...
* Setting the diode driver to a low current, like 80mA's or so.
* Having the supply leads to the LD driver available to test. (ends striped)
* Adjust focus, and position module with set screw.
Now... Once everything is ready, mix the Arctic Silver adhesive and spread a thin layer on the heatsink.
Hold the Ice Box against a wall, and pointing toward a corner, use a single 3.0 volt lithium battery (or 3.6 ), to light up the LD so you can make sure your assembly is glued on straight by checking to see if the beam is 'straight', and the dot hits the corner at where it should. You will have maybe 5 minutes to make this adjustment before the Arctic silver adhesive sets up.
You not only want the beam to be straight, but you want to make sure that the module protrudes through the box, without touching the box. As the module is cooled, but the box is not.
(other adjustments in beam alignment can be made by simply loosening the module set screw, and turning the module)
….Just got it all buttoned up!
I have my peltier set at 546mA’s, the fan draws about 192mA’s...
Armed with this information, I am going to go ahead and do some adjustments in my wiring to disable one of the 7805 regulators. Then I will bring leads from the 7805 voltage regulator at the fan, to the FlexDrive for the LD…
Schweet success! The peltier driver has it’s own 7805 voltage regulator, and the LD driver and the fan share another now.
It is very stable with my twin 7.4 volt LiPo packs in parallel. I did a 5 minute run at 186mA's. (PHR diode) It was rock steady at 166mW's. (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened) The temperature of the block DROPPED 2.5 degrees during the 5 minute test run!
It was noticeably cooler to the touch.Awesome!
….I'm now the proud father of healthy twins! I'm going to leave the settings as they are for a while and see how it goes...
I am amazed at the result of the 5 minute test run of the blu-ray Ice Box @ 186mA's! (PHR diode) To go for 5 minutes at this current, and the temperature of the Meredtih mounting block actually got LOWER!
This will be the future home of a 12X diode!For now, the PHR is giving a steady 209mW's through my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=22497
The Long open can red is giving 316mW's through the Meredith glass lens...
I know.... all the labels and stuff look kind of 'cheesy'. But it's important information to keep track of. This way, I don't have to go looking for it...
….Beam shots!
I should have used a tripod for the camera though...
Jay
Here's a 20' match light video from my red 'Ice Box' laser...
Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!
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