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The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

well, I really did try to figure out what was going wrong. I know that a direct short will eat these things alive so I made sure that it was a good connection.. My prime suspect was teh spring directly off the driver, and I was unable to find the source.

I just had a thought. How easy would it be to take one of these springs from inside and use a Lab PSU to find out exactly how much these things can take before they start "melting" I've got just the thing and a few of these to spare (for the time being)

Ok test done. I've obviously got a short somewhere because this thing can handle 2.5A for a few minutes before it even gets a little warm. I only have the ability to take this up to 3.15A. Peak of my psu. I did find that at 3A within a few seconds it starts to deform. Not red hot, but certainly hot.
 
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Kenom said:
well, I really did try to figure out what was going wrong. I know that a direct short will eat these things alive so I made sure that it was a good connection.. My prime suspect was teh spring directly off the driver, and I was unable to find the source.

I just had a thought. How easy would it be to take one of these springs from inside and use a Lab PSU to find out exactly how much these things can take before they start "melting" I've got just the thing and a few of these to spare (for the time being)

Ok test done. I've obviously got a short somewhere because this thing can handle 2.5A for a few minutes before it even gets a little warm. I only have the ability to take this up to 3.15A. Peak of my psu. I did find that at 3A within a few seconds it starts to deform. Not red hot, but certainly hot.
Click to expand...


Yep... Plus just think of all the P7 cheap flashlights out there that use a similar cheap switch and they run at 2.8 Amps for extended periods of time...

To get that tiny switch spring red hot, you have to short it directly to the battery...
 
Ok, so.... here's the scooop and latest update. I've finished testing the new media for the polisher. I am pleased to announce that it successfully gets rid of ALL of the tool marks. Then when moving on to the wallnut shells, it makes much easier to get a mirror polish on the hosts. So the polishing issue has been SOLVED. I'm running this thing pretty much non-stop polishing barrels (I can't do it at night on account of it being LOUD) and have the anodizing bath setup now so we will literally start to see these barrels rolling out within the next few days/weeks. (still have to wait for the spacer from pontiac) If you want your barrel without the spacer (you'll be responsible for making your own like I did) let me know and I'll put yours on the list to ship asap.

I do have a picture of the 3 finish types... untouched, after cones, and after wallnut shells. This has still not yet got the mirror finish and Jayrob having his as polished alone will get his first (I know he can make the spacer needed as well and is I'm sure incredibly anxious to get his hands on these) and before I ship those, I will take a picture of the mirror finish.


in the pic the first third and fifth have been through the cones and wallnut. #2 is untouched, and #3 is just the cones.
c70b65e4.jpg


Xstatica will notice there are NO machine marks on 1,3, and 5 that go around the diameter. There are a few scuff marks from the hosts bumping into one another inside the polisher, but those will all come out when I touch them up with mothers aluminum polish.

High resolution picture for those interested
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3175365/DSC00071.JPG
 
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Looks good! Thanks for the update and high res image. I can't wait to see how the anodizing will turn out.
 
Hey guys I wanted to let you know I've come up with a solution to the retaining ring problem. This will make it so that pontiac doesn't need to make up anything and it will allow me to start shipping these things sooner.

purchase a thin plastic 3 ring binder. should cost you $1.00. Take a dime and make a circle in the plastic and cut it out. Once you have the circle, cut another circle in the center that will fit over the spring on the clickie and trim down the circles outside diameter to fit inside the Kryton. Make the circle fit perfectly inside the diameter and it will hold the switch in place.

Here is a picture of what I did on the last one I did.

clickie%20solution.JPG
 
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I am working with a potential machinist to get these beasts finally made. I've kind of updated the pictures to show how the diode adapter screws into the head. There will be a total of 3 diode adapters for the unit. One for 9mm, one for 5.6mm and one for c-mount. the one in the picture shows the 5.6mm one.

Beast%20assembly%202.JPG
 
Kenom said:
Hey guys I wanted to let you know I've come up with a solution to the retaining ring problem. This will make it so that pontiac doesn't need to make up anything and it will allow me to start shipping these things sooner.

purchase a thin plastic 3 ring binder. should cost you $1.00. Take a dime and make a circle in the plastic and cut it out. Once you have the circle, cut another circle in the center that will fit over the spring on the clickie and trim down the circles outside diameter to fit inside the Kryton. Make the circle fit perfectly inside the diameter and it will hold the switch in place.

Here is a picture of what I did on the last one I did.

clickie%20solution.JPG
Click to expand...

Is this to replace the snap ring that was used in the prev run or is this an added piece to prevent the shorting/switch killing that you were talking about before? If it's to stop the switches from getting killed - I don't think it will help as I has that issue myself and only solved it by insulating the sides of the spring that comes from the driver.
 
OrBy said:
Is this to replace the snap ring that was used in the prev run or is this an added piece to prevent the shorting/switch killing that you were talking about before? If it's to stop the switches from getting killed - I don't think it will help as I has that issue myself and only solved it by insulating the sides of the spring that comes from the driver.
Click to expand...

This is to deal with the snap ring fit. If the spring from the switch is shorting out, either the switch is moving out of place or (more likely) you have a switch with a longer spring. Just like the switches from the last run, you may have to cut the spring down some to keep it from "bending" over and shorting against the barrel. If it is the contact spring from the driver that was shorting, I use a plastic "ring" similar to this to hold the spring centered on the barrel.

Peace,
dave
 
thanks for fielding this question Dave. It is exactly as Dave said.. has nothing to do with preventing shorting.
 
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