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The Chartreuse Coruscation

Hmmmmmm....This statement is false: RI = IR......o_Oo_O

OK....now for some additional fascinating info...

See here...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lime_(color)#Lemon_Lime

I now am of the opinion....that Chartreuse...is NOT the correct name for the color I am after.....the name is " Electric Lime "....see the attached link...

SO.....much to your amusement......I must conjure up a new name for this....Epic Project.....Any suggestions from the group....THAT have nothing to do with Cat Piss !!! :sick::sick:….( Such as....Cat Piss Photon Catapult )….more like..." Electric Limelight "

CDBEAM :sneaky::sneaky:

Note: Actually....I am slightly pleased with this revelation concerning the possible project name of " Electric Limelight "....for the word " Coruscation "...was and continues to be rather obscure !!
 
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I am wrong add blue to the 565nm. Goes between yellow/green and more white. Doesn’t do what I was thinking but adding 532 to 565 does make it more green but really 565 looks like the color to me. No mixing will work for lumia as you know. Which way does 520diodes shift when super cooled? Try some liquid nitrogen.

Call it the seven up Mountain Dew smash up
The exorcist photonic canon
Crayola dreams
Or just the gang of green
Max headroom (since 555 is the brightest color and my favorite ic chip)
 
HMMM.... Electric Limelight Elucidation.....ELE...…..HHmmmm… Maybe !!!!! The word " Elucidation "....that IS a mouth full !!!....but IS appropriate !!

To have a DPSS pump out 565nm would be neat.....even a LAME 36mW....But.....

BUT....with the ELE...IF I can pull it off.....I will have the ongoing gift that keeps on giving....the ability to twiddle with the Mix knob !!!.....This could be a good thing....or....a PITA...….DUNNO ??….AT OVER 1W.....We will see !!!!

Next step....set up a Test Bed....populated with the 532nm DPSS Green and the GH0637AA2G Red....and see....what I see !!!

Thanx for everyone's participation !!

CDBEAM
 

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RedCowboy said:
1w ELE will be a sight to see. (y)
Click to expand...

RC....
Yes....I think so !!! IF it can be done !!!!!!!!!!!!!! A real plus is that both the GH0637AA2 Red and the 532 OEM Green....have the same divergence = 2.0mRad. I should note....that the Jetlasers product description was just updated....to read divergence for the 532 OEM @ 2.0mRad !!

Mmmmm….to achieve a more refined control....I wonder if I can drop in a very small digital display....which would read current output from the Red driver....so.....one could ….er….ah...duplicate the red current setting...….would be an desirable add-on !! Just a thought !!! If I wanted to repeat the colour.....just set the digital current display at that number....which seemed to deliver the Electric Lime colour !!!

CDBEAM
 
I don't think I've ever seen anyone display the current on a diode in a build. You would have to put an ammeter in series with the LD to do it. Don't know how that might change the conduction of the diode. If you succeed in doing so, it would be worth seeing, for sure.
 
Well...I know Jack Shit about electronics !! I cannot remember an build where the current to the diode was monitored....in real time. So...just a thought....could have a toggle switch...Read the current setting...or... Power the Laser....ah....NO....NO ...That sudden Power On would fry the LD....Whatever.....Mmmmm… Anyone have any ideas ????

Ya....I know....we have such a biological monitor....our eyeballs...hahaha !!!

One thing I do know....I have very little space to work with !!! As it is....the meter would likely need to ride outside the host body....in a separate nacelle box/unit.....I think ??...IF such an arrangement of current monitoring is possible ???...As I said....my knowledge of electronics is...rudimentary !! OR...It stays as it is ??

Thanx,
CDBEAM
 
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Why anyone?

I did it 2 years ago in one of my first combiner builds - The Blaster! An 5A ammeter worked fine in series with 2 NUBM07E. Important was to feed this ammeter from the main battery. Once I tried to feed it from the same 12V driver as LDs it almost resulted in a short-circuit!

However I am not so sure if red LDs are as endurant as blue ones. When I am going to PBS 2 Ushio (build in progress) I will check.
 

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Thanx for the info LSG ! Well...I know Current is " Flow " ….and Voltage is " Pressure ". OK....I want to measure the Current (Flow)....from the driver....entering the Red LD.

FYI, I plan to use the X-Wossee Blackbuck 8A to drive the GH0637AA2G Red LD. Yes...I know...this driver is able to drive a 5A LD....but...I will likely set it max to 800mA max for the Red LD. The external pot arrangement is needed to modulate the Red LD....so that is why I choose this driver !! . The 532 nm OEM will be driven full out.

OK....So...I would like to monitor current delivered to the GH0637AA2G Red LD. The amount of current is determined by the chip current set adjustment and the external pot setting. To monitor the LiPo cell Current will not tell me how much Current (Flow ) is being delivered to the Red diode.

Obviously....I must study on this topic of Current and basic electronics.....to even be able to ask the right questions.

Thanx,
CDBEAM
 
I have led volt meters on some of my builds to monitor the batteries, but for a current reading of what the diode is getting I would set the driver an inch or two back and use a small inductive coil around either wire to the diode and configure or buy a small LED meter to monitor it, something could possibly be repurposed but I could probably find something as well.

---edit---

LOL EBAY > https://www.ebay.com/itm/bayite-DC-5-120V-100A-Mini-Digital-Current-Voltage-Amp-Meter-Ammeter-Gauge-with/283195620027?epid=14017345196&hash=item41efc63abb:g:lkcAAOSwa6Zbt0Zm:rk:6:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/bayite-DC-...h=item41efc63abb:g:lkcAAOSwa6Zbt0Zm:rk:6:pf:0

---edit---

Looking at these they are small but not tiny and the resolution is 300ma but you could loop your wire through the pickup 10 times and then divide the reading by 10 giving you 30ma resolution.

Although a modern mini meter in series may not add much resistance I would test it wired in against an inductive current meter simultaneously to see it's accurate and not altering actual output to the diode.
 
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RC....WOW...Great minds think in similar fashion !! HAHAHAHA....I found the same thing on Ebay….in the last hour !!! And only found the Hall Effect sensor with the 0 ~ 100 A range....then read about the looping the wire thru the sensor....to multiple sensitivity !!! ....ONLY...if it can be done 10 times....it could be done....100 times...to provide 3.0 mA resolution....I suppose !!!....I do wonder if this means a lower current delivered to the LD ???? Due 100 loops ???

Well.....10 loops should provide enough resolution....after all....this thing ain't going to the Moon !!! Whatever....Hay...for 10 bucks....I can Dilly, Dilly with it !!!

SO...if this concept works.....different current delivery to the Red Diode....will deliver different shades of Green ======Yellow....and....if after experimenting around.....I find that a setting of ....er....say....625 mA....delivers the colour I want....perfect. One could then experiment....yet....always return to the 625 mA setting....and therefore return to the shade ….that was most desirable...you KNOW...CP Green/Yellow HAHAHAHHA !!

I do not remember any past builds....that tinker with this mA monitor function....but....then again....Why would they ???? In this build....it would only find some utility !!! Hey....why not !!! ????

Any of you E-Leck-Tron-ick Guru's out there....Please advise if I am bark'in up the wrong tree !!! In the arena of Electronics....I am..." A lost Ball....in Tall Weeds " !!!

Thanx,
CDBEAM

See here....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-5-120V-100A-Digital-Voltmeter-Current-Voltage-Amp-Meter-w-Hall-Effect-Sensor/382612774771?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&
 
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Light superglue said:
Why anyone?

I did it 2 years ago in one of my first combiner builds - The Blaster! An 5A ammeter worked fine in series with 2 NUBM07E. Important was to feed this ammeter from the main battery. Once I tried to feed it from the same 12V driver as LDs it almost resulted in a short-circuit!

However I am not so sure if red LDs are as endurant as blue ones. When I am going to PBS 2 Ushio (build in progress) I will check.
Click to expand...

So, you didn't measure the current through the laser diodes, but measured the current pulled from the batteries? I have seen this done, but it defeats the need to know the exact current the diode is pulling. I don't understand why trying to measure at the diodes caused you a short circuit condition, though.
 
Yes and as batteries discharge the current into the driver will increase to maintain the same output, so you would have to monitor the voltage under load and the current into the driver to tabulate what the output " should " be.

You could set the max with a driver such as the BB8 and adjust with the addition of a pot which the BB8 is designed to do, then adjust by eye knowing you can't go too high, add a photodiode near each emitter and a small meter and you could go by that feedback with a laser driver with a set maximum, actually setting a limit would be a good idea in any case.
 
I briefly thought about a Photodiode sensor...to measure and quantify the Red output....Naaaagh….way to much work.... I think I will Dilly, Dilly with the Hall Effect Ammeter....much simpler approach....to an already complicated build.....Now...if it works....where to put all the parts ????

Hmmmmm.....a side mount Nacalle….I think that may be the only option....for the sensor and the meter...…...or....just bolt it to the outside....and go " Steam Punk "

Pass the Popcorn !

CDBEAM
 
Few ideas for measuring current.

Put a low ohm non inductive resistor (.1ohm) in series with the LD. measure the voltage across it with voltmeter. multiply the reading by 10 to get actual LD Amps. Beware some small cheap meters can't read the voltage of the source (battery) that is powering it. But many of the tiny meters on ebay can be powered by a watch cell.

Another simple way is to measure the voltage of the adjustment pot. This would need to be correlated to the gain/ transfer function of the driver if you need to know actual LD current. Realistically you don't need the actual current just a relative number to know where the color mix "looks right" so it can be repeated.

Actually you could go old school and use a tiny analog movement meter for both of the ways mentioned. 0-1A or 0-5V.
 
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