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FrozenGate by Avery

Recommended current for PHR-803T ?

I'v been slobering for 35 years and beleve it or not the blob method is best if you don't own a solder sucking machine or want to take the time to clip everything away from the leads. but you must be quick. and use a hot enough iron to melt the solder fast, but not to hot. the trick is get it hot quick pull off the ribbon with needle nose then cool it down quick, just blow on it or better to use a small piece of wet spounge, remember to leave it in the heat sink while your doing this. and I put the heat sink in a small vice on my work bench to hold it.
I have removed four phr's like this and i have 3 running at 100ma and one at 60 ma all in axi mod's.
I have also removed many more red and ir LD's this way and have had no problems it seems.

Best Regards Pyro...
 





So, looks like blob method is the best.
I also put diode (with heatsink) in vice so it can be cooled.

I have never used blob method before, but I'll practice a bit on IR diodes.

It's probably better method than heating pin directly with iron tip.
Thanks Flaminpyro.
 
jay's method is the best for habit retention...

You allways want to do the least atrusive method and after it becomes habit
then time is not an issue...

This is why jay has a high success rate in his harvests:). This is all for peperation for
the arrival of great diodes in the future...
 
There are two possible other reasons for the problem I didn't see mentioned above. After you set the current you should short out the capacitor. if that's not it what about ESD. are you grounding yourself before handling the LD?
 
I have actualy broken the pcb away from the leads. Of course this takes finness but it worked great. It took me about 5 mins which is not that bad considering waiting another week for a new diode.

Skylight
 
Chip I noticed that your sig says picnic... CIIW, but didn't it use to say panic...

Sorry for off thread! I FYI like to picnic, anything for food:)
 
chipdouglas said:
There are two possible other reasons for the problem I didn't see mentioned above. After you set the current you should short out the capacitor. if that's not it what about ESD. are you grounding yourself before handling the LD?
Click to expand...

As I mentioned in earlier post, I connect capacitor directly to diode.
And off course, I discharge capacitor before soldering capacitor on diode pins.

Every time when I work with electronic components I touch radiator to ground every electricity.
 
well phr's dont have the best track record here. so you could have just gotten some bad ones. I have blown through many myself. :mad:

@jander, it used to say panic but i thought picnic was less offensive in our current world environment. and it's a nice play on words, thanks for noticing. :D
 
break away the PCB

Skylight said:
I have actualy broken the pcb away from the leads. Of course this takes finness but it worked great. It took me about 5 mins which is not that bad considering waiting another week for a new diode.

Skylight
Click to expand...


Howdy Skylight was just wondering if you ever break the leads off the LD using this method ?

Best Regards Pyro...
 
My third PHR803T works fine on 120mA.
I used blob method.
Probably heat was the main problem.
 
Last edited:
Another PHR has died.
This PHR died after 30 seconds on 125mA (LM317T regulator with 10ohm resistor)
Axiz housing was almost cold after 15 second that is max time of duty cycle.
I'm sick of buying PHR diodes that dies after 1 minute.


Going to buy better diode that won't die after few seconds.
Which diode should I buy? (GGW?)
 
If you overdrive your GGW like you overdrive your PHRs, then it will last about as long as your PHRs have been, only then you'll be out ~$55US instead of $10. If you insist on overdriving your lasers, better stick with the cheap diodes.

I run PHRs at 90mA, and I just had one die with about 4600 hours on it..
 
For this money I will not gamble.
I'll give 160-170mA that is fine?
 
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