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FrozenGate by Avery

Put a battery in backwards...... :(

Is there a hole blown in the IC next to the coil or is that just some kinda goo on top of it?
 





It's a hole in the IC. Basically You let the Magic smoke out of the Chip. The reverse Current was to high for the IC to handle and it fried.
 
Coherent Light said:
It's a hole in the IC. Basically You let the Magic smoke out of the Chip. The reverse Current was to high for the IC to handle and it fried.
Click to expand...

It still works.... It just lazes at <100mw :(

I pmed drlava about a new driver. Hopefully i will get it soon.

+ rep to everyone who helped! :thanks:
 
I would not run it until You replace the driver, because You never know what might happen with the driver in this condition.
 
I don't think it has anything to do with reverse polarity. The driver can handle it.
I've accidentally installed batteries backwards a few times with a V5 Flex and MicroBoost.
It looks like the assembler really fcked up the driver.
That is the problem.
 
Yea the driver definitely looks fried. Its probably shorted out and driving the LD off the battery directly. No boost.
 
Get a new driver. the IC next to the inductor definitely has a hole in it. The casings on IC's are a form of ceramic. They aren't going to melt with a soldering iron.
 
RA_pierce said:
I don't think it has anything to do with reverse polarity. The driver can handle it.
I've accidentally installed batteries backwards a few times with a V5 Flex and MicroBoost.
It looks like the assembler really fcked up the driver.
That is the problem.
Click to expand...

I don't think the assembler F'ed the driver. Given the right conditions reverse biasing the driver WILL overload the circuit and let the SMOKE out. I have been working with electronics for over 25 years, and have seen just about anything that can go wrong happen at one point or another.
 
That poor driver never stood a chance. I don't know who built that, but they need to have their soldering iron taken away.

And what in the world is that huge copper thing in there? It looks like a RAM heatsink cut to fit that may have been used as a heatsink for the driver. The only problem is its not on any part of the driver that makes any heat!

Whoever built that needs to be named, especially if they are selling more builds. There is no excuse for a soldering job that looks like that.
 
I managed to load two picz, I cannot load the one labeled "Edit pic of driver" or so, first link in OP.

I see something that *MIGHT* present a problem, if you consider a problem to be ...
img20100829130817-1.jpg

A muthafukkin crater in muthafukkin IC.

That besides general awful solder work, I mean seriously how the hell do you accidentaly move the 5-pin SOT23 IC at the input like that?

Seriously , who made your laser?

EDIT, addendum to rant - to think that the laser actually worked!
 
Last edited:
Pontiacg5 said:
That poor driver never stood a chance. I don't know who built that, but they need to have their soldering iron taken away.

And what in the world is that huge copper thing in there? It looks like a RAM heatsink cut to fit that may have been used as a heatsink for the driver. The only problem is its not on any part of the driver that makes any heat!

Whoever built that needs to be named, especially if they are selling more builds. There is no excuse for a soldering job that looks like that.
Click to expand...

I built that , When i placed the heatsink on the coil , it kept the driver from flickering.

From looking at these pictures , I can tell it was not my soldering job on them.

when I solder through the contact points, i use a tinned thin wire and after its soldered through the hole , i clip the excess wire close to the board level.

I never heat the board enough to where components "move around" the board.
 
How much current was your boost set at? You may have gone over current and blown the protection diode with I^2R heating. Then the reversed cell finished the deal.

HMike
 
I set the boost to about 1100mA , When the board got warm I felt to see what was hot , I placed the heatsink on the coil with thermal tape and it kept the board running just fine.

I solder with flux, and needle tipped 15W iron.
 
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