Pushed hard 07E 465nm in D mag. Amazing color I haven't seen.

[Pman]

So I had decided to build another one but this time push it harder the my other one that is running at 4.8A. I set the SXD all the way to the max stop point on the pot and was shocked at the color compared to the other one. Purchased the 07E from Jordan with the SXD at 4.5A, full back copper half and an acrylic lens as I already had other lenses I could use. I ended up using either an Eitan G type or a standard 3 element depending on what I am doing with it. The normal lens I use on any diode with cruddy divergence is a 3 element so a G is just for measurement type stuff.
Max setting on an sxd should be somewhere around 5.5A I believe but I did not bother testing it. Yes, I know I'm pushing it really hard but that's on purpose and if something happens that's on me. I am certainly not recommending anyone else doing it. If you want to test it out yourself use your variable power supply and put it in a well cooled heatsink to minimize the chance of it blowing. I believe Jordan said he tested it up to 5.8A and it didn't blow. What he described happens is the same as what I saw. It will start up around 4.7-5W and then start dropping output by a couple hundred mW as the seconds tick by. I haven't run it for more than about 15 seconds so far.
Here's the very simple build. I won't have pics to show the beam alone and comparing to other blues until later. Hopefully the pics will show up correct as I've been having issues lately.

Heatsink that was made about a year ago by Ehg:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/923/0Jo7sO.jpg

Feilong 32650

Bought from Jordan

Pressed into the heatsink that is pretty tight but also has good silver thermal grease on it. I always put an acrylic lens in them to protect the diode while I'm working.

I decided to mount a good size all copper heatsink on the chip and also attach it to the heatsink with arctic alumina. Since I have lots of room I also added another piece on top of the first one and then added a few aluminum sinks because I could

You can see there's lots of space inside so I kept the wires pretty long. Had already taken the switch out and soldered wires where they needed to go

Soldered and then double heatshrinked

Finished unit. Don't have a large focus knob to go with it but if anyone has one or knows where I can get one let me know. It would need to be aluminum like the heatsink to look decent

Yes, antI climactic without the beam shots but I will take them today and post so you all can see what I mean. To my wife and I it looks teal in color so it's like a small amount of green added to a light blue. Looks very different t from my 473nm Jetlaser or the other 07E and anything else I have. Dont reember seeing this color anywhere.
I had the time to post what I had already done but I'm not home right now. I'll be back

Edit:
OK, I first started with these 4:

3.3W NDB7875 445nm, 2.2W M462 462nm, NDB07E 465nm pushe'd with 4.8A, NDB 07E 465nm pushed with 5.5A 4.7W-5W peak on immediate turn on and then dropping.

I then added more.

It should be noted that I added both diodes available that are 462nm as the 9mm one (NDB7675) will output a higher wavelength than any M462 I have.

I added 2 A140 diodes as the one driven at 1.8W is a higher wavelength
07E pushed hard 5.5A 465nm, 07E pushed at 4.8A 465nm, 1.8W NDB7A75 462nm, 2.2W M462 462nm, 3.3W NDB7875 462nm, 1.8W A140 445nm, 1W A140 445nm, 800MW bdr-209 405nm (look at them right to left)

I'm just going to show all the pics I took but I will say that the 5.5A driven 07E on the end looks more teal than you can see in the pics.

Just the 07E

This show the difference better

[/IMG]

If you can't see the dramatic difference between them you ain't got no eyes

Here's a pic next to an 80mW 473nm Jetlaser PLE-Pro

Again, I wish it showed the color with just a tiny bit more green. In some of the pics you can see for yourself how dramatic the difference is though. DTR/Jordan suggests running them at 4A and it's a good all around setting. You can buy it with driver set to 4.5A however and every tenth of an amp you push it will matter for wavelength. He does mention that he ran his original test one at 4.8A for a bit. You can visit his site to see what the tests showed for wavelengths as the Amps go up.
Just so it is understood, I don't actually know what my particular sxd driver maxes out at as I never tested it. I set it at max and let her rip. I believe their max is somewhere around 5.5A but I can't say that for sure. I would like to know if anyone has tested theirs to see how high they will go.
I ran the laser for no more than 30 seconds on anytime I took a pic and then all of them were shut off between every single shot. In a few of the shots where I am facin the beams I kept stinging myself lol. I was wearing appropriate glasses that are basically enclosed around my eyes. I was going to try and knock down the output of the new build with a cheaper pair of glasses but all I managed to do is burn them all over the place. It's what you can expect with cheapo at the wrong protection level. Reminds me to remind others that if they are still trying to use old glasses that worked fine when 1W builds were all the rage make sure you are up to date for the multi watt units.
Thanks for looking

GSS gave me this beautiful focus knob so here's what it looks like now:

 

[BowtieGuy]

Nice Mag build, Pete; I see you went with the gray host, looking good! :yh:

 

[paul1598419]

Am looking forward to the beam shots and hopefully a good representation of the color. Thanks, Pman.

 

[Astralist]

Looking good!

i myself had been pushing my 07E at 5A, on a first run it outputs 4.9W on three element lens!
But sadly, now it only outputs about 4.0-4.2W on three element lens and 5.0-5.5W on G2. I don't even had a chance measuring the power using G2 while the output on three elements lens is still 4.9W.

As per my eyes, mine is pretty green-ish, not like a sky blue at all. i havent measured mine on spectrometer yet.

BONUS:
According to CIE data of scotopic eye adaptation (vision at night/dark surrounding), on a clear atmosphere the beam of 465nm is more visible than 520nm

And here is the photopic version (vision at daytime/bright surrounding), but who want to see the beamshot at daytime/bright surrounding anyway?

 

[Pman]

Adding the pics right now but I don't think it shows it quite right. I showed my son and he immediately said the color was teal.

Actually that sounds about right Astralist. I don't think there's anything wrong. Once you get to a certain point (like DTR shows) you will start to fold back and your output is going to drop. The longer you run it the more it will likely drop in output. The harder you push it the faster it drops.

 

[badboybilly]

Nice mate love this wavelength, I'm thinking that new 2.6w diode with can might go even higher pushed, not much difference in price either, I would buy one but I just bought a lathe and am cought up in its capabilities. Tools for the lathe are more expensive than diodes!

Nice build mate!

 

[DTR]

Nice. I like your camera as well. Mine is pretty decent but it does tend to blend a lot of the blues together. Even 405nm looks close to 445nm to my Olympus. Might just be a setting issue as I have never looked at all the setting in the thing. Anyway great pics.:beer:

 

[paul1598419]

That was pretty good. I wish there was a camera that could differentiate the colors better. My Canon doesn't show the difference well between my 450nm and my 488nm Argon, though it does show some difference. It's never what you see with your eyes. I wonder if my daughter still has the Minolta I gave her that used film. I have never taken any beam shots with a film camera.

 

[94Z28]

I love these maglite builds, I haven't completed my laser mag build but I do know my mag led builds handle heat unlike any EDC style led I own. Great job, let me know if you find a nice matching focus ring as I need one also or I may end up making some at work.

Much approve of the heatsinks and I may steal your idea

 

[ArcticDude]

Nice build and great beamshots! :drool:
Makes me want 07E SXD 4.5A for my next build!

I think I might have found use for that BIG 99.9% copper rod

 

[GSS]

What a commitment to wavelength"s:beer: Pman
This is just to crazy!! Are you ever going to dial it back after reaching that "Holy Grail"?
Awesome pic's, choice's and setup

 

[Lifetime17]

Hi, Pman ,
The gun metal gray host is sweet i built one with a 44 in it for someone it looks great . And all that sinking on the back of the main is awesome , I'm wondering about the cycle cause i sink my driver to the back of the main, IC contacting the sink and it just gets warm after 90 seconds . You can't beat the mass of these sinks for the high power diodes.. Nice job Pal.. mag lights are my favorite choice for the big boys.

Rich

 

[Pman]

Well thanks everyone It feels so much better when I can contribute more than just here's another Pman build, yeah yeah blah blah blah. I would encourage everyone to really look at what DTR/Jordan shows and talks about on his page for this diode. It acts just like he said when you really push it beyond. Obviously this is at your own risk but in my opinion what you get is pretty amazing.
I used most of the sinks I had on hand to increase the surface area of both the driver and main sink which are all attached to each other. Reality is there's still a lot of space still and I could do more if I wanted to. When you cut down the mags shaft there's so much space it opens up. There's no reason to keep the plastic shaft anyways. I can unscrew the top, pop out the sink and have tons of wire to easily change something if I wanted too. I can still adjust the driver down with a bent tipped screwdriver also but with a wavelength like that no way I'm doing it. I do need to buy some more heat sinks. If anyone knows who is selling the copper and aluminum driver heat sinks let me know as I can't remember where I bought them and I only have pieces/parts left. The copper sinks I had came with that adhesive on the back but I removed it all with nail polish remover and used artic alumina instead. I don't think the tape is going to transfer heat as well as a super thin layer of arctic.
As far as a cycle for this unit that's a tricky one because of how the diode behaves being driven so hard. The output starts dropping after the initial peak pretty quickly. I'll have to do a test and see where it is at after 10, 20 and 30 seconds or something like that. Actually I could video it and then have time to figure out what it is doing better. I didn't notice any visible drop in output while taking any pics at this kind of power level.
My pics are coming out so much better now because I'm using my Galaxy note 4 to take them. My other cameras can take decent pics IF I set them up in a tripod but just using the automatic settings on my phone works great and I'm just holding it. It's taking 4k pics and then imageshack.com is converting them to 800x600. Of course they would be better if I held the phone with something else. The only way to show the 405nm was to add fog.

That's a pretty serious hunk of copper you got there AD.

I saw the one you built Life

Thanks to Jordan for the quick shpiping and the complete assembly

Thanks to those who helped me choose which color mag to use.

Thanks to GSS as he is sending me a larger focus knob straight off one of his own units even though I told him he's nuts

My next build will most likely be the 08E that is supposed to be 455nm. Just waiting on a bit more testing and some $. Jordan has them in stock. I will likely be installing it in a C mag that I already have a heat sink for that is actually about a third deeper than the D mags one. That sink also came from Ehgemus about a year ago. I don't have anymore maglight sinks although I still have a bunch of D mags.
I posted where I bought my Feilong 32650 cells from in the Ebay bargain thread.

 

[Atomicrox]

Very cool!

A trick that helps show color difference is pointing the laser to a wall nar the corner and photographing the reflection of the laser dot on the closest wall.

Did I understand correctly that you perceive this as "greener" than 473nm?

 

[Pman]

I've only shown my wife and son seperately when one had no idea what the other said and they both immediately said it looks teal. I think it's likely around 475nm trying to compare it to the Jetlaser 80mW 473nm. Colors can be distinguished from each other visually pretty easy in the blue range. I'm not sure how many blues I have ranging from 445- 473+ that I could show at the same time that look different but it would be quite a lot. If I added another 20 or so my bet is most would look too similar next to each other.
Actuly that's an interesting thought. I could take all of each color group and pic them with fog to see how many colors we could pick out. They would have to be whatever has a constant on button. I bet all my 405nm would not look the same.

 

[Astralist]

Actually that sounds about right Astralist. I don't think there's anything wrong. Once you get to a certain point (like DTR shows) you will start to fold back and your output is going to drop. The longer you run it the more it will likely drop in output. The harder you push it the faster it drops.

I think i understand what you said is an output drop at each time/cycle turning on the laser right? but mine is on the other hand, it's like the diode has been degraded or something.. now it only outputs about ~5W at first time turned on when the battery is freshly recharged = 8.4V

BTW, i think you should calculate the wavelength manually (using grating or something like that method) and post the result here. I really curious about the wavelength of yours