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Post Your GUN (PICS)

^ i suppose it's displaced on a side, right ? ..... i mean, it's not simply centered on the rail, shining on the front aiming marker and taking away sight from the scope, right ? ..... :p :D
 





na I can see past the laser/illuminator, the adjustmets are on either side of the FOV... and ya the laser and illuminator are slightly offset from the center of the rail

ex.

toppic-peq2a.jpg


the gas block is in my FOV tho :\

thinking of changing it to a low profile gas block...
 
Oh i see ..... seen from this angle, it make sense (seeing it from the previous pics, it was not noticeable, the fact that it's rectangular and the beam came out from a side)

Thanks.
 
i need massive help.
i recently got my minors gun licence and i shoot my with my pop (he has a licence)
ok i shoot his really old benjamin franklin air rifle,(710 model) i use this to shoot pesky rabbits.....
i need someone to help me find a way to remove the valve.
thats the valve i gota get out somehow:/ help i will be eternally greatful if you help me fix this. it was made in the 1945's and has been in my family since. when i am 18 it is to become mine and i would like to keep the family gun agoin

peace all

new3t.png

this is the valve i gota get out

new2b.png


newl.png
 
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Bump.....
AND i offer a red 16x in module for whoever gives me the details that get the valve out of the gun :D
cheers
 
You're taking that picture through the breech end, after the cover assembly is taken off? Or are you kind of wedging it in there with the bolt open?

(One hell of a macro shot if you were able to take that down the bore... :p)

You're probably going to need a spanner style screwdriver to get those parts out. It's like a flat-blade screwdriver with a notch out of the center so it can grab those slots on the side. The easiest way is to buy a cheap (usually Chinese) screwdriver from a hardware store with a cheap-o tool rack, and cut the screwdriver to match those slots with something like a Dremel rotary tool, using the cut-off discs.

However, before you do any of that, what exactly is the rifle doing wrong? Not holding any air before the shot?

One common problem with old pneumatic pump rifles is the leather washer on the pump wears out, rots, gets dry and goes bad, pushing no air into the reservoir. I would flip the rifle over and flip the pump open and look at the piston head to see what's going on there. It could be something as simple as some oil/grease in there would seal things up enough to get it shooting again.
 
the gun holds no air at all. its a .117 so the barrel is the tiny tube on the top. that "macro" shot is a picture of the valve, i took the pump handle out and took a photo.
if you see where the wooden pumping handle meets the stock that is were the valve is so i would need a really big screw driver.
any more help :/

EDIT: photo from muzzle
 
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how could it ruin it :/
Come on guys i know how much you want a red diode..........
 
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That's why I suggested a really cheap screwdriver. Because you'll need a really big one to grind into the needed size of spanner. Although, any other suitable metal rod might work, it'll just take more grinding. A piece of rebar etc. A large cold chisel, anything that you can grind into shape will do.

And you're positive the pump gasket is okay? Does it offer resistance as you pump it up, and fills, but you can hear air hissing out, or it just loses the air quickly?
 
when you pump the air just never goes in you cant even hear it hissing out..
sorry but with your screwdriver method im keen to try could you elaberate more i dont really understand :thankyou:
 
TTerbo said:
when you pump the air just never goes in you cant even hear it hissing out..
sorry but with your screwdriver method im keen to try could you elaberate more i dont really understand :thankyou:
Click to expand...

What you need to do is find the biggest longest flat-blade screwdriver you can that will reach the slots on the sides of the valve nipple.

Once you have that, you grind out the center of the tip so there's two fangs, or tines like a fork that will fit in the spanner slots.

Here's an example:

mfg71920spanner20bit20series1.jpg


I mention grinding a cheap flat-blade screwdriver, because finding an actual ready-made spanner bit for lots of gun parts is difficult, so cutting out the center with a file or a Dremel type rotary tool and grinding stone is cheaper.

Of course, the picture you posted is difficult to tell. Perhaps the valve nipple is below the level of those slots to the side, so then a standard (albeit kind of long) screwdriver will reach them without any modification.

Another even cheaper idea is see if you can find a single interchangeable multi-bit screwdriver bit like the picture above, and if you have access to a socket set or nut-driver set with a LOOOOOONG extension you can put it on (American screwdriver bits like above are usually in Imperial 1/4 inch.) then you just have to "ruin" the tiny bit and not a whole screwdriver.
 
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jander6442 said:
I don't dare list all my handguns here. Bad enough I post pics of my pointers.

I will post my latest addition to the family. I shot it 10 rounds so far.

I would not, would not want' to be on the receiving end here folks.

I was not at my home to take a actual pic of my pistol, but here is one identical
to it.

taurus_public_defender_judge_1.jpg
Click to expand...

I don't blame you...Not that it's a bad thing....but you could just fuzz out all of the serial numbers.

Now as for me......Well, you would think that since I work for an Arms manufacturer that I would own several guns, but the sad truth is, I don't. I only own one.
Savage Arms
64fss.png


This is the gun that I am currently saving up for. It's probably going to take me another year to get enough money for it.
LMT: .308 Modular Weapon System
LM308MWSE_large.jpg


As many of you might remember I work for a place called LMT.
Lewis Machine & Tool Company :: www.lewismachine.net
Lewis Machine and Tool Company - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Feel free to ask me questions...but don't let it get out of hand...LOL
 
Captain Dan said:
Ruger 10/22 anyone?
Click to expand...

I took one apart with a leatherman squirt in the summer :na:
That gun is very picky about which ammo you use, but once you find the right ammo it works wonderfully! With most .22 ammunition, the gun would FTF/FTE every other round, but with those bulk 550rd packs of federal I got two jams in 400 rounds, both because one of the magazines was dirty.
 
I love the ruger 10/22. It's pretty accurate and extremely cheap to shoot. 500rds for $20! Mine kept having jamming issues even with the default ruger magazines so I cleaned it and the problem was fixed.
btw I take mine apart with the leatherman wave :na:

I do prefer .17 HMR or .17 HM2 over .22LR and even a .22 WMR because of how incredibly accurate they are and how far these bullets can travel.
 
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