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FrozenGate by Avery

PHR works !!!!!! Got few questions...






yes meter is in series with the battery and driver.. and negative is connected straight to the driver!

Maybe a clear picture of your meter's face showing the cables and selector
switch would simplify troubleshooting your reading problems...

Also a pic of the cables hooked to your Laser/Driver setup....


Jerry
 
A common glass lens AR covered for red ..... ;)

I am confused lol. What does AR mean? In jayrob's thread it says that if you use a glass lens on a BR instead of acrylic you get power loss. ?! Right? So if I replace the lens of the aixiz module( the one which I found when I got the module: acrylic ) with a glass lens I will get less power?
 
Maybe a clear picture of your meter's face showing the cables and selector
switch would simplify troubleshooting your reading problems...

Also a pic of the cables hooked to your Laser/Driver setup....


Jerry

Well i cant do it at the moment (12:30).. but I'm 99% sure I'm doing it correctly.. if i put a dummy load on it i get a current reading.. then i do the same thing with the dummy load off and meter in series.. 0.00 ma its making contact and all parts are clean soldered and no bridges!

I give up with this method.. i find the dummy load easier.. no offence! also i would like to ask if any one is willing to swap their driver for mine.. if you read my thread here it will explain it all..

http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/rkcstr-groove-playing-up-need-help-43912.html

Thanks in advance! -Adrian
 
You do know that you need a Load on the Driver for it to draw current
from the batteries...
When you remove the test load... do you hook up "something" in it's place..:thinking:

BTW is this the exact same driver as in the link you show above...


Jerry
 
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I am confused lol. What does AR mean? In jayrob's thread it says that if you use a glass lens on a BR instead of acrylic you get power loss. ?! Right? So if I replace the lens of the aixiz module( the one which I found when I got the module: acrylic ) with a glass lens I will get less power?

Sorry.

AR = AntiReflective (the treatment that usually are put on the surface of the lenses, for let them reflect the less possible) ..... if you have a broadband AR coating (that is valid for all the visible range) you can use the lens for any wavelenght in the given band, without particular loss of power ..... but, usually, for maximize the transfer factor, AR coatings are made for specific wavelenght ranges, and the more common use for these lenses (in the past, at least ..... then we arrived with BR, and spoiled their fun :p), was for red diodes, so the coating was optimized for the red range ..... and a coating optimized for red and IR, reflect partially the band in the blue, and for some coating, almost til the green (you can see it, cause if you look the reflection of daylight on a lens surface, you see it colored ..... the color that you see is the center of the band in where the lens "loss" more, cause reflect it) ..... usually, red/IR lenses, looks blue, cause they reflect the blue band, so, using them with a BR diode, make it loss some light for reflection ..... if you use a broadband lens (it look with very dim reflex, with no particular dominant color), or also better, a blue / BR lens (usually their reflex looks amber / light orange), their transmittivity gain with BR diodes (and ofcourse, loss with red ones)



..... with the dummy load off and meter in series .. 0.00 ma its making contact and all parts are clean soldered and no bridges!

wait, you mean you take away the load ? ..... and the meter is "in serie" with what, the power supply ? ..... if yes, ofcourse you can't have any reading in current ..... a current driver like this one, without load, is an open circuit !

Or i have understood wrong that what you mean ?
 
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Is true IF you use the wrong type of lens.

With a lens optimized for red, yes, you loose power.

With a lens optimized for BR, you gain power (optical glass is more transmissive than acrylate).

Speaking about singl lenses, ofcourse ..... in some cases, with "triplets" (groups of 3 lenses in a holder), you can gain nothing in power, but get a better beam shape (better collimation at distance, usually)
 
You do know that you need a Load on the Driver for it to draw current
from the batteries...
When you remove the test load... do you hook up "something" in it's place..:thinking:

BTW is this the exact same driver as in the link you show above...


Jerry

Sorry my bad.. yeah i solder a small diode across the terminals.. and yes im using the same driver as mentioned above
 
A Laser Diode or a Rectifier Diode...:thinking:
If it's a Laser Diode does it lase....

What type of LD is it...

Jerry
 





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