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Optotronics RPL-II 532 nm +1400 mW - opinions and experience?

Radim

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Do not worry, Paul. I know how it goes - so little time and so much projects. :) Take your time.

Seems very interesting now. Regarding the driver heat sink, maybe it is used also for more powerful models, where TEC and/or fan is needed? I would be quite worried if it was not missing there - I mean that just passive cooling is not enough. Maybe it is wise to confirm that with manufacturer to be sure the transistors are not overheated with extended use.
 



Radim

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Update:

Yes! Finally the beast is on her way! Long waiting, but that is how it goes if you want something special. ;) I'm looking forward to get it in my hands finally... Hopefully everything will proceed without problems and will be here fast.

"Lasers are s3xy."
"That feeling when you see colours as their wavelengths."
"Laserpainting is a drug. Do not try it."


Current collection:
405 nm | 500 mW | Wicked Lasers Lunar
445 nm | 3.5 W | Wicked Lasers Arctic
473 nm | 100 mW | Jet Lasers PL-E Pro (Review)
520 nm | 1 W | Wicked Lasers Krypton
532 nm | 100 mW | Wicked Lasers Evo
532 nm | 800 mW | Sky Lasers PL

589 nm | 50 mW | Dragon Lasers Spartan
635 nm | 750 mW | Wicked Lasers Inferno
1 W RGB projector
(+ some laser pointers)

Ordered & shipped:
532 nm | 1.4+ W | Optotronics RPL-II


Laserpainting artworks:
LPF thread: Radim's laser painting
Latest laserpainting: Soul in the Surreal world
Instagram: @radimmatera

Please use hashtag #laserpointerforums for laser related stuff when you post on social media to help us promote LPF. Thank you.
Edit: BTW my post number 1,000. ;)
 
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Hap

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Did it need to be custom made for you Radim? I was wondering why it kept saying "Waiting" in your signature!

-Alex
 

Radim

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It was more complicated, since these were being manufactured, then returned by Jack for adjustment as they were not perfect. But I would say all these units are custom made as such a laser is not common. ;)

And thanks, Alex. :)
 
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Hap

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It was more complicated, since these were being manufactured, then returned by Jack for adjustment as they were not perfect. But I would say all these units are custom made as such a laser is not common. ;)

And thanks, Alex. :)
Got it! Yeah, you don't see 1.4W 532's being sold everywhere, especially not handheld form. You are welcome :whistle:

-Alex
 

BobMc

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Update:

Yes! Finally the beast is on her way! Long waiting, but that is how it goes if you want something special. ;) I'm looking forward to get it in my hands finally... Hopefully everything will proceed without problems and will be here fast.



Edit: BTW my post number 1,000. ;)

This is one review I am diffently looking forward too. 1.4- 2.0 watts of 532 in a handheld, oh yea, going to be something special! Best wishes with your unit and I hope it arrives soon.

Congrats on your 1000th post. :)
 

Radim

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Thanks, Bob. It will just take some time. I need to receive the laser, gain some experience with it and than I can proceed with review itself. Otherwise there will be a little to no value in the review. I guess at least one month of gaining experience should be sufficient. I expect it like end of August or beginning September to publish it as earliest date. Depends on the free time I have for it. I also would like to use it in some artworks before, what should show for what use I wanted to get this laser. Due to cost, power and beam specs with short duty cycle this one might find limited use only, but for its use I believe no other portable can succeed. Let's see once I have it in my hands and shine it around, I'll start to think about how to use it, how to overcome its limitations etc.

For sure I'll post some info after first tests, but not full review. ;)
 

BobMc

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Thanks, Bob. It will just take some time. I need to receive the laser, gain some experience with it and than I can proceed with review itself. Otherwise there will be a little to no value in the review. I guess at least one month of gaining experience should be sufficient. I expect it like end of August or beginning September to publish it as earliest date. Depends on the free time I have for it. I also would like to use it in some artworks before, what should show for what use I wanted to get this laser. Due to cost, power and beam specs with short duty cycle this one might find limited use only, but for its use I believe no other portable can succeed. Let's see once I have it in my hands and shine it around, I'll start to think about how to use it, how to overcome its limitations etc.

For sure I'll post some info after first tests, but not full review. ;)
Thanks, understand, will give me something to look forward to. :)

Sounds like she's going to be one beauty of a laser.

I just bought my first high end camera and am trying to figure out the ISO, shutter speed, and the aperture. Been trying to get some decent beam shots but have been have trouble getting them. Been trying different setting ( no flash ) any chance you could give me a setting or two that might give me a heads up? Thanks.:)

Edit; a Canon Rebel t6
 
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BowtieGuy

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Glad to see it's on the way, it should be a beast. Looking forward to seeing it in action!
Congratulations on your first 1000 posts, of hopefully many more to come. :beer:
 

dden4012

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It was more complicated, since these were being manufactured, then returned by Jack for adjustment as they were not perfect. But I would say all these units are custom made as such a laser is not common. ;)

And thanks, Alex. :)
This is good to know that this much care is taken in a high end product. I hope it's perfect for you. Looking forward to your review. Just knowing the efforts taken to make it perfect makes it extra special.
 

paul1598419

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Congratulations on your 1000th post, Radim. Do you know how they temperature control the crystals and diode in the 1400 mW handheld version? I am very curious about this laser. To get it to TEM00 and keep it there must take a lot of electronics packed into a very small space. I'll be looking forward to some beam shots as well.
 

Encap

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Congratulations of your 1000th post :beer:

Ditto the above--looking forward to your review --- Jack is a good guy and he will definitely get Viasho who makes them for him to do best possible example for you .
Viasho makes a lot of high quality laser products see: http://www.viasho.com/
 
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Radim

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Oh, thanks guys. :) It is for sure a great laser, with extra value as Jack won't release them untill they are perfect. What is great for sure.
I expect to get it at the end of next week or the week after. Depends on how fast it can proceed through mail.
Once I'll have the laser tested, for sure I'll include some beam shots to the info posted here to share excitement from such a beauty. ;) Seeing such a hunger for beam shots, this is a must have. From that moment also my experience collection for the review will start. Therefore, as I mentioned, do not expect full review soon, but some experience will be shared quite soon. ;)


Thanks, understand, will give me something to look forward to. :)

Sounds like she's going to be one beauty of a laser.

I just bought my first high end camera and am trying to figure out the ISO, shutter speed, and the aperture. Been trying to get some decent beam shots but have been have trouble getting them. Been trying different setting ( no flash ) any chance you could give me a setting or two that might give me a heads up? Thanks.:)

Edit; a Canon Rebel t6



Bob, it is hard to give you some settings as it depends on external illumination and your intentions (and camera itself - lens diameter, sensor...) Basically if you want more bright beam you use more time (longer exposure), or you might increase ISO or aperture (lower f number). Aperture size affects depth of field (lower aperture size - therefore higher f number - larger depth of field). Higher ISO helps to shorten the time of exposure, but makes more noise on pic.

For solid beam longer time is useful as dust particles in beam become blurry (invisible therefore), if you use short time than you might capture dust particles steady in beam (I have one pic showing it in my review of Sky Beauty).

For longer exposure than let's say 1/30 - 1/10 of second you will need some tripod (or any other way to keep your camera at fixed position) as it is impossible to hold it steady long enough in hand to get sharp photo.

Also you might get some light meter (there exist free apps using mobile camera as sensor), which gives you what values to use with given illumination. Your camera also have one inbuilt of course, but it is easier to learn with external device showing you many combinations.

I use this app:



Also you might notice there are many combinations of f number and time for same exposure value. Therefore you might select f number for depth of field (what part of scene is sharp - in addition you define it also by focus point) and use higher time or adjust ISO if you need short time. ISO is adjustable in this app.

Good to help you with beginnings, than you will get experience and eye for that.

Still I use it for classic vintage camera if illumination is strange and hard to guess (like a lot of light and shadows parts), but mostly I estimate it about the same as I get.

Regarding depth of field there also exists apps for calculation and I use DOF calculator. For my vintage camera (no electronics there, just a contact for flash, it is over 60 years old, part of heritage after my grandfather who was passionated photographer) with fixed focus lens there is a nice scale to get it precisely:



It is usually not on lens what I've seen, but there are on line generators for settings tables you can print.

On top ring you set aperture - f number. Then you focus with ring below and on the bottom scale you see depth of field for given f number (project it to focus ring scale - distance). If you have adjustable focus lens (zoom) such as simple hint is not possible as focal length has some influence to depth of field. But here you can see how it works in relation to focus and aperture - f number. On pic you see focus on 3 meters and f number 8. As seen it gives you depth of field from 2.something to 5.something meters (see 8 as f number at very bottom scale). So, objects on scene in this distance interval will appear sharp on the photo (from point light sources at scene circles are created by light coming through lens are below film/sensor resolution and are perceived as points - point is created at exact focus distance, outside depth of field the blurry image occurs as those circles are bigger and captured as circles - of course it is simplified, optics is more complex, but for start it is enough...). Simple and helpful. Also it is good to learn with it.

Note: Usually these (f number, time and ISO) scales work with specific discrete values - let's call them degrees. If you change one by one degree, you change the other accordingly to get same level exposed pic. For example for f number one degree up (smaller aperture) you adjust time by one degree longer, to get same amount of light, or higher ISO by one degree, to get higher sensitivity of sensor.

For start you might also try A and P modes not full manual, but it is not that complicated with full manual as it might look like.

Good is to use RAW as you do not need to bother with white balance and have much more possibilities in post process - basically you do the positive from digital negative (RAW, raw and all data from sensor), in JPG camera does it for you, but you loose some data. Often you can use both, but be aware RAW is data heavy - my camera needs more than 20 MB for single pic in RAW compared to finest quality JPG having 5-6 MB.

Try to do some experiments and do not hesitate to post them here, we might discuss them. ;)

I now even think about writing some laserpainting focussed, but not limited to it, photo guide. Thanks for great idea initiation. ;)
 
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BobMc

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@ Radim; Thanks for your help! I am trying to learn. Got the photographic triangle worked out (a little). Going to be trying changing the shutter speed first (as you suggested). Leave the iso and the aperture alone (for now) and just play with the shutter speed. I've tried with the flash on and off, off seem the way to go? Thanks again. Know it was a tough question, with to many answers.

Raw is something I'll work on later. Will post some pictures, when I get just a little better. I'm getting to much wash-out and not enough "just beam" at the moment. But it is fun! :wave:
 

Radim

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Great. Might be more reasons why beam looks like that. Try to use also flashlight with flash off on long expo and illuminate area desired with flashlight. That's how I did some laser shots in my 473 nm laser review:



I used my mobile flash diode as flashlight.

Regarding RAW do not be affraid of that. If you do not use it, set white balance before exposure, otherwise the color might be wrong and it is very hard to adjust later.
 
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