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Oops... how'd that fan get in there

jander6442

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Been wanting to put a fan in a handheld for ages now and finally got around to doing it using my compression pill with an inserts from a LED lens assembly.

The host is one of many that I've been using for my "magnetic" unit in my sig.

I had to use another middle section from some other units I'm fond of, but hey I'm in the active cooling crowd.

I'm using a 3.5 megapix camera phone:

Notice the slit groove cut from the LED lens ass. it's to let the air come in also I drilled small holes in the LED driver board for more airflow. The small holes under the Large brass nut is for exit airflow... works pretty good.:beer:



I'm using the half threaded Aixiz 405nm lens... the whitish material is good olé mighty putty.:)

I went with 20g wire to hold the driver ( microboost set wide open 1.2A)


I wired the fan straight to the LED driver board it's rated at 5v, but spins efficiently with 4.0v



Here is the host. I had to use 1 o-ring in the back, other than that it was a snug fit.


I planned for the drilled holes in the host to be the intake and the top compression hole for exhaust worked out good, for a change;)


Sorry for my finger being so chewed up I have a rough job:cryyy:




I would like to thank forum member boscoj for acquiring the fans for us good job.:thanks:

I have also like to foreshadow a future build... a passive cooling handheld that would be able to have the fan running after a duty cycle. ;)

I'll post back on how it performs so far I'm very happy with it.
 
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ludwigfan

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Very nice build you got there. So what's the duty cycle on that now?
 

lazeerer

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Nice, Those fans are tiny i cant believe you got it to fit in there.:) :gj:
 
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Morgan

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Another step up in home build tech. China will be watching! :gj:

I got me some of those fans too. They are nice and small but I have a different purpose in mind for mine. Still a touch large for me to put in a handheld. Some figures on thermal shutdown time with and without the fan running would be good.

What's the driver set at etc... ?

M
:)
 
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jander6442

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Thank you for the kind words... I have the driver wide open at 1.24A. The fan is NOT
however wired to the driver. The next step is to do some driver/fan testing.

I also need to find a way to drive the fan with the diode off power to run the fan while not lazing. Any input would be appreciated.

I also would like to try to pull heat from the driver and push the flow to the back of the diode. This setup has flow going across both driver and diode:)
 

Toke

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I guess you could connect the fan straight to the battery through a small termoswitch, small enough to fit in a drilled out hole in the heatsink. (2-3mm)

Finding one may not be easy. :(
+1 for being first with the fanned unit. :)
 

HIMNL9

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I also need to find a way to drive the fan with the diode off power to run the fan while not lazing. Any input would be appreciated.


Just as suggestion ..... playing with values (and maybe adding a diode or a zener in serie to the gate, for give it a threshold), you can get it not running at ambient temperature, and start to run at, like, 40 or 45 degrees ..... ;)

Also, the first two capacitors can be omitted, for battery use, and the 10uF one on the gate can be substituted with a 100nF ceramic one, and for minimize the current drawing when not in use, the NTC can be substituted with a 3mm 100Kohm one (more small building) and the trimmer with a 220Kohm one, so it draw 1/10 of the original current in rest state (the original circuits, i planned them for PC use, so the currents was not a problem)


EDIT: and if you can, SMD mounting components can give you a miniature circuit too :p :D
 
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Addonex

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Very interesting build! now if only you could fit a peltier in there with it.. :na: Also interested in the duty cycle (if there is one?) and what kind of temps it reaches when left on.
 

Toke

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Ok, here is a thermo switch that may work, it operates on at 45C and have to be bolted onto your heatsink.
 

jander6442

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I'm not understanding the thermo switches wiring setup. I'm direct wiring to the fan then the heatsink? Or the power source to the fan?
 

Toke

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This particular switch is a simple two legged thingie with a contact inside that close when the whole thing gets above 45C.

You just get hold of a battery plus, solder it to one leg, connect the other to the fan, fan minus to case. The bolting it to the heatsink part is simply to ensure that it is measuring at the right place. They are supposed to be bolted to a heatsink inside a power supply or UPS to give indicating of overheating, or turn on a fan.
 




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