NUBM44 6W+ 450nm Laser Diode

[planters]

CHP

I can't be sure if this is a clean window failing under intense light or a contaminated window failing where the clean one would not. The G-2 would probably not get splattered with window debris if the damage was a coating and some cracking. This sounds a little more like an organic contamination. The G-2 might have introduced some dirt when it was threaded in.

These really powerful lasers are going to introduce new problems with optics damage, thermal loading and beam correction.

 

[JimMc]

Can someone suggest a place to by a cylindrical lens pair to tame this laser? I've searched and the only source I can find is optlasers.com and their maximum correction is only 3x.

Here is the housing I made for mine. It still requires a fan to operate continuously. I've got it running at 4.5amps and my thermal camera says the body stays below 100F in steady state.


-Jim

 

[Cyparagon]

my thermal camera says the body stays below 100F in steady state.

Thermal cameras cannot accurately read the temperature of shiny metals.

Add a piece of tape to the body, and read the temp of the tape instead.

 

[jetburner]

I wanted to give two thumbs up for DTR and his new NUBM44. This diode is absolutely what I have been searching for. He promptly responded to any questions I had. I told him what kind of host I was looking for and he put me in touch with Ehgemus. He built me a beast of a host and it looks damn good too. Peoples tell me it looks like a light Saber. It holds 2 x 26650s and has a custom focus ring. Thanks DTR and Ehgemus!!!

 

[RedCowboy]

Thermal cameras cannot accurately read the temperature of shiny metals.

Add a piece of tape to the body, and read the temp of the tape instead.

I've been using a temp gun not a thermal camera that I use on other metal surfaces that seems to be accurate.
This HH I threw together with a 2nd NUBM44, my decanned NUBM44 is still running strong in a different test bed.

The extruded heat sinks I got from flebay 2 for 5 bucks, they just needed little drilling and tapping and the center hole opened up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-53x21m...733?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25947886bd
After a 60 second run the highest reading I got was 98F and they only feel a little warm so I think it's fairly accurate, but I will try a piece of tape to be sure.

 

[Pman]

Whats the width of the holes on those heat-sinks?

 

[micheal rosen]

so do we know what this diode can do in terms of power now? its been more than a month, we have to have new data.

 

[DTR]

so do we know what this diode can do in terms of power now? its been more than a month, we have to have new data.

Yea keeping in mind heatsinking is very important for this diode. I suggest if portable get a beefy custom host like an Ehgemus or one of the other custom hosts using the copper module with full copper back half to pull heat from the base of the diode or use a unit like the 2X26650 XML with the two part heatsink Budget beams has in stock. If a non portable see these full units which plantes was able to do more than a 30 minute run in by itself holding around 6.5W.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/xyz-mount-modules



For power output with 4A you will get 6W-7W and with 4.5A 6.5W-7.5W.

 

[micheal rosen]

Yea keeping in mind heatsinking is very important for this diode. I suggest if portable get a beefy custom host like an Ehgemus or one of the other custom hosts using the copper module with full copper back half to pull heat from the base of the diode or use a unit like the 2X26650 XML with the two part heatsink Budget beams has in stock. If a non portable see these full units which plantes was able to do more than a 30 minute run in by itself holding around 6.5W.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/xyz-mount-modules



For power output with 4A you will get 6W-7W and with 4.5A 6.5W-7.5W.

i guess that answers my question, but i mean what is the highest output someone has measured from one of these diodes? 7.5, 8W i imagine?

 

[RedCowboy]

Whats the width of the holes on those heat-sinks?

The center hole is 11mm, I used to use an 31/64th drill with the old axis chrome modules but they were slightly under 12mm, DTR's excellent copper 12mm modules are a true 12mm, well a half a hair under 12mm so they fit a 12mm hole nicely. If you need a 12mm drill that oddly enough home depot has none. I ordered some here that arrived in about 4 business days.
12mm 2 Pieces Twist Drill Bits Metric High Speed HSS HS 12 mm 3 8 REDUCED Shank | eBay
p.s. I'm sure you have tools I just included the link for anyone who wanted it, there is plenty room for the 12mm.

 

[RedCowboy]

Yea keeping in mind heatsinking is very important for this diode. I suggest if portable get a beefy custom host like an Ehgemus or one of the other custom hosts using the copper module with full copper back half to pull heat from the base of the diode or use a unit like the 2X26650 XML with the two part heatsink Budget beams has in stock. If a non portable see these full units which plantes was able to do more than a 30 minute run in by itself holding around 6.5W.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/xyz-mount-modules



For power output with 4A you will get 6W-7W and with 4.5A 6.5W-7.5W.

Yes I know this little finned job is only good for a minute on minute off but it cools down fast.
The ugly old unit in the pic has the 1st 7875 I ever bought in it and it will run for 5 minutes no problem.
Sure we can have 100% duty cycle with active cooling especially in table tops, but how to make it HH and sleek?
I like the laserglow approach with the long copper core aluminum finned unit enclosed in a maglight style tube with a fan at the back. But as many of us are on a budget I see the value in adding more material for a bit longer duty cycle, but it will also have a longer cooling cycle.
I'm not trying to tell you anything that you don't already know, I'm just fishing for new ideas.

 

[DTR]

Yes I know this little finned job is only good for a minute on minute off but it cools down fast.
The ugly old unit in the pic has the 1st 7875 I ever bought in it and it will run for 5 minutes no problem.
Sure we can have 100% duty cycle with active cooling especially in table tops, but how to make it HH and sleek?
I like the laserglow approach with the long copper core aluminum finned unit enclosed in a maglight style tube with a fan at the back. But as many of us are on a budget I see the value in adding more material for a bit longer duty cycle, but it will also have a longer cooling cycle.
I'm not trying to tell you anything that you don't already know, I'm just fishing for new ideas.

If you want 100% duty cycle that is what these are for.:beer:
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/xyz-mount-modules

 

[DutchLaser]

Here is mine
:lasergun:
That's what it does @ 4.5A except mine is blue :wtf:

The copper module is 'press-fit' in to +400 grams aluminium

The heatsink is going to be pressed inside a Trustfire TR-1200 host.

I milled some kind of chamber or 'slot' (is that how you call it in English?) for the driver if I ever want to push the heatsink out from the flashlight without crushing the driver.
If one knows the layout of this driver, one can see that the inductor is not 'heat sinked' very well and yes, it is getting hot fast. is that a problem?
I used Artic Silver 5 thermal compound on the 8-pin chip and bolts are tightened gently but tight.
Maybe inductors are allowed to get hot, I don't know, its just some sort of iron with enameled copper wrapped around right?

This entire thing warms up pretty quick even though its weight is 445 gram.

I bought diode and driver from DTR.
Definitely recommend this guy if you are looking for laser stuff. :gj:

 

[TaterMay]

Here is mine
:lasergun:
That's what it does @ 4.5A except mine is blue :wtf:

The copper module is 'press-fit' in to +400 grams aluminium

The heatsink is going to be pressed inside a Trustfire TR-1200 host.

I milled some kind of chamber or 'slot' (is that how you call it in English?) for the driver if I ever want to push the heatsink out from the flashlight without crushing the driver.
If one knows the layout of this driver, one can see that the inductor is not 'heat sinked' very well and yes, it is getting hot fast. is that a problem?
I used Artic Silver 5 thermal compound on the 8-pin chip and bolts are tightened gently but tight.
Maybe inductors are allowed to get hot, I don't know, its just some sort of iron with enameled copper wrapped around right?

This entire thing warms up pretty quick even though its weight is 445 gram.

I bought diode and driver from DTR.
Definitely recommend this guy if you are looking for laser stuff. :gj:

Have you measured power output?

 

[DutchLaser]

Nope, don't have a LPM.

I want to swap my 'Chinese Ebay G2 lens' with a 'G9' lens for even better output. I'll just have to believe it...
...too bad that I have no way to test it.

 

[lazeristasUVISIR]

I milled some kind of chamber or 'slot' (is that how you call it in English?)

I would call it a pocket. A slot is a narrow, shallow, and long feature

What is a diameter of your Al block? Looks like ~30-40 mm.