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FrozenGate by Avery

Nichia NUBM34T 115W 455nm






Hi Alaskan,

This is because only tedcs is confirmed to have this multidye package and only he can give info about this thing from first hands.
Wait until the price is halved, then more people on LPF would get it and play with it.

For me this is a technical forum where every decent build needs years to be accomplished. Many pieces have to be machined and several times reshaped, every mirror 100 times adjusted to get things working... and a lot of money to spend on pieces, which do not have any supplier.
In opposite to IT area where coders only need notebook and current to do a job overnight anywhere on the globe. So for them posting once a years is necro posting. For us technical workers one post a year about a new build is still too frequent!
 
The documentation in this thread is first rate, so good I want more!

I'd also like to put one of these blue laser diode arrays in a large host I have, but I'd have to expand the beams a lot to reduce the divergence as well as help join the individual beam outputs to appear more like a single beam, not really possible to make it appear as one beam that way, but I think I can get it to approximate one.

I'm working on a multi-diode Nichia NDG7D75-E 525 nm pointer and what you are saying is well taken, it takes time and adjustments to get it right, I'm hoping this one won't require multiple trips to a machine shop. It's going to break the mold when done, unique in more than one way.
 
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Alaskan said:
The documentation in this thread is first rate, so good I want more!

I'd also like to put one of these blue laser diode arrays in a large host I have, but I'd have to expand the beams a lot to reduce the divergence as well as help join the individual beam outputs to appear more like a single beam, not really possible to make it appear as one beam that way, but I think I can get it to approximate one.

I'm working on a multi-diode Nichia NDG7D75-E 525 nm pointer and what you are saying is well taken, it takes time and adjustments to get it right, I'm hoping this one won't require multiple trips to a machine shop. It's going to break the mold when done, unique in more than one way.
Click to expand...
Tease!
 
Yes these beams have to be expanded for sure. Soon I will try this with my 31T, I purchased this lens to make a big expander. Biggest AR coated with known f what I could find on ebay:
www.ebay.com

145mm Dia Large K9 Optical Glass Focal Length 385mm Large Plano Convex Lenses | eBay

145mm Focal Length 385mm Large Plano Convex Optics Glass Lens Magnifying Glass Lenses Magnifier Glass Lens. Optical Glass Focal Length 385mm Double Convex Lens. Focal Length: 385mm. Material: K9 Optical Glass.
www.ebay.com

But I think the problem with these MDP is that the beams are also not focused. Later I am going to take the gang lens off and hold it in an adjustable mount...
 
Nice find, difficult to find AR coated PCX lenses that large on ebay!
 
I want to repeat here the info what I just have posted in the thread about 31T:

BTW for those who is looking for cheap and decent driver for these MDP (multi-dye packages) like 31T and 34T.

I have experimented with both these constant current drivers from ali:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...08#5965#571_668#888#3325#19_668#2717#7565#706

www.aliexpress.com

25.33US $ 5% OFF|900w Dc-dc Digital Boost Module Led Display Adjustable Boost Module Module Boost Converter Adjustable Boost Module - Voltage Regulators/stabilizers - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com www.aliexpress.com

The 600W one was real piece of shit, the current could not even reach 2A, but the 900W one was working well and it looks that it can make 3A each even with 2 of these 31T chips in parallel (not tried yet).

I aso have tried Indium foil in place of Arctic Silver with NUBM08 block like Styro did on his YT video with 31T, but with all 3 thicknesses I tried (0.03mm, 0.1mm and 0.3mm) the block after 1-2 min was 10ºC warmer than while using Arctic Silver on the same heatsink.
 
Thank you for posting the info on those. I've used the 600 watt ones, although a very different model, and quickly found the higher the boost, the less current, POS' don't live up to what the sellers indicate, they won't tell you that, just list them for example stating 10 amps output, but the higher the boost from the input voltage, the less current, far less.

Due to this, you won't get the claimed amount of power out in watts, not even close when simply doubling the voltage. I would have expected if rated for 1000 watts, you would pull a lot more input current to get 1000 watts of doubled voltage (at half current) on the output, minus conversion loss, but nope! You won't be able to pull the 10 amps, it just sucks down with a 10 amp load to a low output voltage when trying to pull it.

After seeing your post about this, I found one on ebay too:

www.ebay.com

1pcs BST900W DC-DC CNC Boost Converter 8-60V Step-up 10-120V Solar Charging CVCC | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1pcs BST900W DC-DC CNC Boost Converter 8-60V Step-up 10-120V Solar Charging CVCC at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com

​

 
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First off, apologies for necroing a 2 year old thread. You guys were one of the only people on the internet talking about this.
Hey, I recently acquired a 115w Nubm34 laser diode for cheap off Ebay (got it off a auction). I'm trying to make a circuit to make it work and was wanted to check with you guys if it is dangerous.

I'm going to be using LM338T's for the main driver. I watched the styropyro video in the thread and it said I shouldn't be running them at over 3 amps. However the manufacturer rates them at being able to 5amps at 40volts. So this is something I wanted to check would not blow a hole in the diode. However I also want to make sure my choice of batteries would be alright, I was hoping to make this portable. I'm going to be using 2 Zeee 14.8V 2200mAh 50C 4S Lipo Battery's to power the circuit. I'm hoping these would be powerful enough as for some reason the only specs sheet I can find on these things states they should be run at 96v 3amps! I assume thats the whole diode and not every lane.
1653674415184.png
I'm thinking i'm going to run it at 30v (because of the two batteries), but how much should I turn up the ampage?

To make sure I don't blow up the diodes or my eyes. I'm using a old Xeon server heatsink I had lying around from a old computer, alongside with some mid quality thermal paste. I would assume this would be enough to cool this diode for short bursts. I might try and get a better paste though or a foil of some kind to replace the spare cooling supplies I have just lying around.
Screenshot_20220527-133310_Discord.jpg
For glasses i'm going to be using some Freemascot OD 6+ 190nm-550nm goggles. They seem a little cheap but that seems just to be in the frames. Most of the money seems to go to the lenses and they seem like enough to protect my eyes. The only thing is they don't fit incredibly snug, So I'm going to use a little duct tape and plastic to block out the goggles a bit more for those bits were lasers could possibly get through.

Is there anything wrong with this design? I assume I should add some capacitors but I don't really know any that could handle this high of a wattage. Would anyone have any suggestions. Apologies you guys just seem like the only persons who would know. Thank you very much
 

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ceej said:
First off, apologies for necroing a 2 year old thread. You guys were one of the only people on the internet talking about this.
Hey, I recently acquired a 115w Nubm34 laser diode for cheap off Ebay (got it off a auction). I'm trying to make a circuit to make it work and was wanted to check with you guys if it is dangerous.

I'm going to be using LM338T's for the main driver. I watched the styropyro video in the thread and it said I shouldn't be running them at over 3 amps. However the manufacturer rates them at being able to 5amps at 40volts. So this is something I wanted to check would not blow a hole in the diode. However I also want to make sure my choice of batteries would be alright, I was hoping to make this portable. I'm going to be using 2 Zeee 14.8V 2200mAh 50C 4S Lipo Battery's to power the circuit. I'm hoping these would be powerful enough as for some reason the only specs sheet I can find on these things states they should be run at 96v 3amps! I assume thats the whole diode and not every lane.
View attachment 74629
I'm thinking i'm going to run it at 30v (because of the two batteries), but how much should I turn up the ampage?

To make sure I don't blow up the diodes or my eyes. I'm using a old Xeon server heatsink I had lying around from a old computer, alongside with some mid quality thermal paste. I would assume this would be enough to cool this diode for short bursts. I might try and get a better paste though or a foil of some kind to replace the spare cooling supplies I have just lying around.
View attachment 74630
For glasses i'm going to be using some Freemascot OD 6+ 190nm-550nm goggles. They seem a little cheap but that seems just to be in the frames. Most of the money seems to go to the lenses and they seem like enough to protect my eyes. The only thing is they don't fit incredibly snug, So I'm going to use a little duct tape and plastic to block out the goggles a bit more for those bits were lasers could possibly get through.

Is there anything wrong with this design? I assume I should add some capacitors but I don't really know any that could handle this high of a wattage. Would anyone have any suggestions. Apologies you guys just seem like the only persons who would know. Thank you very much
Click to expand...
I have not worked with this device for years, but have a recommendation. Acquire a lab power supply with independent voltage and current limits! Plan to work with a single row of diodes at a time initially. I DO NOT recommend putting the four rows in series until you know what to expect. Set the lab supply to a very low current, maybe 50mA, and 0 volts. Turn up the voltage slowly until the row emits light. It is important to know what minimum voltage is required. This allows experimenting at low power; this device is quite dangerous – even at fraction of rated output. In addition, it will get quite hot very fast, powering a single row will help avoid heating problems. At full power, I doubt that the shown heat sink would be adequate without a good strong fan.

If you have not worked with a high power laser diode previously, AND a voltage & current lab supply, please do this first. It is all too easy to inadvertently cause extreme injury even if you are the most careful person on the planet.
Watch Styropyro's Youtube videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
tedcs said:
I have not worked with this device for years, but have a recommendation. Acquire a lab power supply with independent voltage and current limits! Plan to work with a single row of diodes at a time initially. I DO NOT recommend putting the four rows in series until you know what to expect. Set the lab supply to a very low current, maybe 50mA, and 0 volts. Turn up the voltage slowly until the row emits light. It is important to know what minimum voltage is required. This allows experimenting at low power; this device is quite dangerous – even at fraction of rated output. In addition, it will get quite hot very fast, powering a single row will help avoid heating problems. At full power, I doubt that the shown heat sink would be adequate without a good strong fan.

If you have not worked with a high power laser diode previously, AND a voltage & current lab supply, please do this first. It is all too easy to inadvertently cause extreme injury even if you are the most careful person on the planet.
Watch Styropyro's Youtube videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...
Ah alright, thanks. I've watched quite a decent chunk of styropyro already. Thankfully it seems only the parts I knew would be a problem were a problem. Just glad those LM338T's don't seem like a problem. I have a friend with a power supply like that so i'll borrow it before I start ordering batteries and such. I was thinking of getting a better heatsink or even some kind of watercooling but assumed this would be enough for a good bit, as Styropyro usually uses severe underkilling heatsinks and they work fine. I harvested this from a old ATX tower PC that was used as a server with a xeon chip that could easily hit 100w of cooling. I had no idea this could hit that high, thanks!
 
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