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FrozenGate by Avery

New 2w 808nm Handheld Laser

lordoflasers - Yes, the two 1400mA regulators are in parallel. They can be stacked like coins to achieve this and save space.
 





Andrewajt62 said:
Contact Guiness World Records man! This is stronger than the Hercules 500 and it's hand held.
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I should make a gun with my 60W 808nm diode bar on it and some LiPos ;D
 
Andrewajt62 - I make larger than this ...  ;) I have a 4W 808nm and a 4W 960nm handheld also. I like IR burners ...

MarioMaster - Not a bad idea! I took one of my 40W 808nm bars and it's going into a large handheld based on lipos. It'll only fire for a few minutes (maybe 5 -8) on a charge, but it should be an interesting burner. The resulting laser will be 3" dia by 14" long and have readouts for lipo voltage, diode current, and diode temperature, TEC cooling. I will be doing some collimating of the slow axis so it will be able to burn at more than a few inches from the muzzle. Should be done in a few more weeks. The guts work loose on my bench, just need to finish it. Sure wish I had more free time ...
 
billg519 said:
Andrewajt62 - I make larger than this ...  ;) I have a 4W 808nm and a 4W 960nm handheld also. I like IR burners ...

MarioMaster - Not a bad idea! I took one of my 40W 808nm bars and it's going into a large handheld based on lipos. It'll only fire for a few minutes (maybe 5 -8) on a charge, but it should be an interesting burner. The resulting laser will be 3" dia by 14" long and have readouts for lipo voltage, diode current, and diode temperature, TEC cooling. I will be doing some collimating of the slow axis so it will be able to burn at more than a few inches from the muzzle. Should be done in a few more weeks. The guts work loose on my bench, just need to finish it. Sure wish I had more free time ...
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I'm interested in some pics of how you heat sinked the c-mount . Also with these build you relize that your going to have to make a tutotrial or live with the fact that there are going to be some jealous IR nuts out there.Like me ;D
 
4w hand held at 980nm... dude you could find loads of buyers for that..
 
If all you want is a close range IR burner, and don't care about a collimated beam for distance, then the optics are not difficult. Both my 4W handhelds, have several lenses that I can put into my machined brass lens nuts. One that works well is the aixiz glass lens. It will focus the IR to a burning point about 2 -3 " in front of the laser. I collect any optics that I can lay my hands on, and I'll try out anything that wil fit in or on or near the lens nut. It's fun to experiment. The bar-line output becomes pronounced after a few inches, the slow axis would have to be collimated with an assembly of cylindrical lenses to get a burning spot at distance. The most important optical component at this power level is of course the laser goggles. Attached is a photo of a disassembled c-mount head, the diode shown is not attached, but just sitting there to show size. An extra PCX type acrylic lens is electric taped to the end of this particular lens nut.
 

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For laser soldering by hand I would want a weak visible aiming laser and the goggles should not block that light too much. I think, normally laser soldering is done in automated fashion with defined pulses at defined coordinate locations.
 
I machine all these parts myself. I will often make several lens nuts for a laser, so I can easily try different lenses as I get them.

C-mount IR laser diodes are case positive.
 
I'm tempted to start building lasers just to get me a 4w bad boy like this! I should probably get some tools first mind, other than a simple set of PC tools :D
 
so the c-mount sits on the heatsink and then you wrap the line wire bar around the post on the heatsink? So the regulators go to the batteries, but how is the rest of that hooked up to the heatsink to make the c-mount work?
 
chaosfourever said:
so the c-mount sits on the heatsink and then you wrap the line wire bar around the post on the heatsink? So the regulators go to the batteries, but how is the rest of that hooked up to the heatsink to make the c-mount work?
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The are around the screw-hole on the c-mount is positive. That rests on the heatsink. The positive wire on the regulator is conected to the heatsink. The stem from the c-mount is negative, which connects to the "post".
 
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