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BigGerm

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I'm as green as grass is here guys so bear with me. Just had a question I recently purchased a 445 NM blue laser diode from DTR laser store and a no diode host bundle from survival lasers with a 1.7 to 3 amp adjustable driver. My first question is what is the best way to connect the diode leads to the driver leads. if you guys have any suggestions. Second question is is it possible to have a laser beam that's a good as a beam and burns at the same time with or without a G2 lens.
 

Encap

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Please make a Welcome post in the Welcome sub-forum and include your global location in your profile.
 

Lifetime17

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Hi Green as Grass ,
Yes the welcome section first, And add your location on this planet please. Members will be more willing to help you. Tell us a little about yourself so we can get to know you.

Rich:)
 

GSS

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BigGerm,
Member Garoq who owns "Survival Lasers" I believe has a link on his avatar with some basic build pic's with his hosts.
Not to sure what your 2nd question is? but a green laser is the most visible but you won't get much more than 1W
 
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Radim

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I'm as green as grass is here guys so bear with me. Just had a question I recently purchased a 445 NM blue laser diode from DTR laser store and a no diode host bundle from survival lasers with a 1.7 to 3 amp adjustable driver. My first question is what is the best way to connect the diode leads to the driver leads. if you guys have any suggestions. Second question is is it possible to have a laser beam that's a good as a beam and burns at the same time with or without a G2 lens.
Specify your second question in other words. And regarding diode connection see datasheet of that diode. Simple, no need to ask here.

Welcome to LPF.

BTW: Are you Martian or green caterpillar?
 

GSS

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Specify your second question in other words. And regarding diode connection see datasheet of that diode. Simple, no need to ask here.

Welcome to LPF.

BTW: Are you Martian or green caterpillar?
Maby he's just asking for some soldering tips and best wire placement..
 

Radim

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Use the LPF Custom search at the bottom of the page to research questions and answers search "how to solder wire to diode" there are many posts about it.

Here is a link to one of them: https://laserpointerforums.com/f44/how-solder-wire-diode-pins-97858.html
That is how I would do it:

When I started I put my copper modules in a heat sink while I soldered. It also helps to tin the tips of the wire. And just make sure the wire is parralel to the pins. Just a one two second touch should do it. I also use quality Flux. It's helps keep clean connections and makes for better heat transfer so you can do quicker solder jobs
 

lasersbee

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I'm as green as grass is here guys so bear with me. Just had a question I recently purchased a 445 NM blue laser diode from DTR laser store and a no diode host bundle from survival lasers with a 1.7 to 3 amp adjustable driver. My first question is what is the best way to connect the diode leads to the driver leads. if you guys have any suggestions. Second question is is it possible to have a laser beam that's a good as a beam and burns at the same time with or without a G2 lens.
1) Solder and heat shrink.

2) You Need to do some research and reading on
the basics of Lasers and optics.

Jerry
 

Alaskan

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Come on Jerry, where's that spoon you have tucked away somewhere for newbies hungry to be fed, or did you toss it?
 

paul1598419

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If you bought these from DTR, why didn't you have him connect it for you? He does that at no extra charge.
 

DTR

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I'm as green as grass is here guys so bear with me. Just had a question I recently purchased a 445 NM blue laser diode from DTR laser store and a no diode host bundle from survival lasers with a 1.7 to 3 amp adjustable driver. My first question is what is the best way to connect the diode leads to the driver leads. if you guys have any suggestions. Second question is is it possible to have a laser beam that's a good as a beam and burns at the same time with or without a G2 lens.
You will need to have a soldered connections from the module to the driver as mentioned. I think he sends his drivers if the round type that are in the pill with leads which if you are a bit of a novice to soldering reduces the risk of overheating anything as wire to wire soldering is the most simple soldering work. Just use some shrink tubing over the connections.

For the driver you say 1.7A-3A adjustable. If not preset to a current for the PLTB450B which would be up to 1.8A you will need to use a test/dummy load(don't connect directly to a DMM without a load to try to adjust the output current or a DMM with the diode in series) to set the drivers output current before connecting it to the diode module. It should not be adjusted after being connected to the diode specially while it is powering a diode. Having to set the current also brings another point that can trip up those new to building lasers. Most switching don't like being powered without a load for a couple reasons one it can cause damage to the driver and it can leave the the output cap with a charge which could damage the diiode. Suggest before soldering the diode to the driver shorting the output leads of the driver just in case the load was disconnected before the test load possibly leaving a charged cap. Just simply touch the exposed parts of the output leads together which will discharge any potential stored charge. This is also why a secure soldered connection is needed between laser diodes and laser drivers. An Intermittent connection can spike the diode. If the driver comes set from SL you should be good to go but never hurts to be in the habit of shorting the output of drivers before soldering the diodes connection. Also make sure not to power the driver til it is all ready to go connected to the diode securely. I see some put the pill in the host with the batteries and not realize that the driver is being fed power.

Your questions about lenses is hard to answer in its current form which is why suggestions to first check out some of many threads here that go into detail about optics to get some of the basics and have a better idea of what you actually want to ask. Answering the question as posed is very non specific and would take a long time laying out the basics and explaining all the results with the many variables your question emcompases. There is a lot of personal preferences that factor in as well.

For something very basic. If you want a better spot size at distance the three element lens will cut off some of the edges of the elongated raw output with multimode diodes like these giving the appearance of a smaller/less elongated spot at distance. As for actual burning at distance the amount of burning(power density) will not be much different just the size/elongation of the spot that gets burned. Up close the shorter focal length of the G-2 will give a little advantage. There are also other lenses out there like the G-7.:beer:
 

Lifetime17

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Hi BG,
Well now you have all the info at hand and none the less from the man him self .DTR laser Guru:worthy:. Cant get any better then that , now thats a real treat. Enjoy your build and be safe.

Rich:)
 




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