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FrozenGate by Avery

how to solder wire to diode pins?

mk64n

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Seems like diodes are very sensitive to heat and can die if not properly cooled, so I'm still wondering why we don't have female plugs on which to solder or crimp cables instead which can be connected/disconnected from the laser diode instead. Aixiz sells one but for testing.
Anyway, since soldering to the pins is the way to go, here are few questions:

1) To avoid overheating the diode, should it be put in a housing if I have one when soldering to help reduce overheating?

2) Should some flux paste be applied to the pin to make a solder joint faster?

3) Should the wire be wrapped around the pin, or just pressed to it, "hugging" from the side?

4) When adding a heatshrink, what are general practices which can be used to avoid overheating the diode from a heatgun/ lighter?
 





Use only a 30W or 40W iron.

1) It should already be pressed into a module, not just a bare diode.

2) Optional not required.

3) Don't wrap the wire around the pin.

4) Never use a heat gun or lighter, just brush it quick a couple of time with your soldering iron.

Alan

Edit: You could use one of these if you prefer not to solder to the pins:
https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=302
 
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When I started I put my copper modules in a heat sink while I soldered. It also helps to tin the tips of the wire. And just make sure the wire is parralel to the pins. Just a one two second touch should do it. I also use quality Flux. It's helps keep clean connections and makes for better heat transfer so you can do quicker solder jobs
 
If I don't make a good connection the first time soldering to a pin, I like to wait a little bit to let it cool down before I try again. I don't know if its necessary, but I do it just in case. :)
Good Luck!:beer:
 
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I agree the 10fenny, a good flux makes the job a lot easier, and leaves a nice looking connection.
I have been using THIS flux from Flaminpyro's site, it's great stuff! It comes in syringes with various size applicator needles for precise application of your flux.
 
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For someone like me who does not have a steady hand these plug in diode sockets sound good. Whats the draw back as it seems to simple?:thinking:
 
Use only a 30W or 40W iron.


Alan

Edit: You could use one of these if you prefer not to solder to the pins:
https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=302

15W would be even better : D

Also using a lighter for heat shrink I find is a lot easier than with a soldering iron , it may not be the best with diodes due to the heat shrink size but with cable terminations on connections it works very well and after some practice you get even shrinking as I use the lighter method on 1.5 and 2.5mm heatshrink
 
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15W would be even better : D

Also using a lighter for heat shrink I find is a lot easier than with a soldering iron , it may not be the best with diodes due to the heat shrink size but with cable terminations on connections it works very well and after some practice you get even shrinking as I use the lighter method on 1.5 and 2.5mm heatshrink

I use a lighter too - ends up looking neater than with a soldering iron I find.

High power lasers also work for shrinking heat shrink. :beer:
 
Socket drawback is if it comes loose you’ll have a current spike and dead laser. My problem is seeing what I’m doing. Need to get a scope. I now use the flex wire dtr uses. @ lo5 easier to work with and doesn’t stress the pins.
 
You are aware that this is a +2 year old thread....:whistle:
But your socket point is valid.:)

Jerry
 
The OP has only 5 posts since joining and posting this thread over 27 months ago. He will likely never see this, so why is this thread open again today?
 
Well
there was a 'plug' for AixiZ-- Chuck gave me some of those..
from some machine--just unplug the dead one and plug in the new.
They have very long lead and work best with the 5.6mm diodes.
AixiZ also does or has offered something in between . small connectors where the pin just slips in and then I assume you solder them in place.


this thread can go back to sleep
 
update? ( actually I was having a hard time adding to my last 'post' )
after looking at AixiZ.com- I no longer see the long lead 5.6 socket plug.
and THB I gave a few away but not actually used one of those and same for these.

AND soldering pins is an onging learning thing.. wont hurt to post here. new members see the "what's new' and read ..

here are two ways to wire up your diodes. with no heat applied at any time to the diodes.

if you cant see it in Chucks pic the male pins are open-so you just plug in your wires and solder.
I cannot see any way this would fail except in an occurence where other ways have failed as well.
.... AND I guess you could dab in tiny bit of E3000 on the diode pins end.. no enough to make taking apart later impossible (like JB Weld-=stuff is TOO good)
these are offered as testing gear.. what you do with them is your biz.
3%20pin%20mount another AixiZ diode connector.jpgSocket TO18 by AixiZ XXXXXXia.jpg
 


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