Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

need good builder to fix 7 watt laser.

I see all this as a 50-50 split..
under 17 should NOT even try to buy
and sellers need to also make them wait..
Its getting tedious to hear about 'only 1W'
1mW can do noticeable retina damage if aimed horizontally through our eye's lens--magnifying the actual power by 10,000 X.. this has been scientifically proven by testing on the eyes of Rhesus Monkeys.

AND.. if you would not hand a gun to a drunk W T H are you doing handing a laser to one????? were you really surprised???-- I was not.
 





Hi,
As you know, I volunteered to help GLR with his laser, no chage as long as I had his parents permission. I also want to say once he decided what he wants done to it, I will fix it and send it to his parents who will have to sign for it. I've been trying to stay neutral on this matter and will continue to do so. I would also like to say that I am not a laser pro nor do I claim to be one as I am a hobby laserer and have no desire to build or repair lasers for anyone but myself. I hope I don't regret trying to help GLR in this matter. I want to say that this is the first SS Survival Laser host ive seen and i am impressed. Very nice.

The laser:
Survival Laser stainless steel with cone focus adapter
Lens : 3element
Diode: open can 9mm
Driver: sxd (?) Adjustable

Disassembly :
The case was very tight and had to put in padded vise to open. Diode module wouldn't budge and had to be pressed out, seems as a silver adhesive(thermal?) was used and was also on case threads possibly making it hard to open. There was no back half on module. Cut shrink tube away from connection between driver and diode to find loose connections. One was twisted together and the other had a small piece of sheet metal (connector?) Covering a twisted connection. Appeared as tho soldering was attempted, but one connection fell apart (the one with metal) and one I simply un twisted. Needles to say the solder attempt failed. I put diode on my psu to find it works (good news) and was hopeful the laser was salvagable. I then put driver on test load to find it not working. I had to use my desoldering iron to remove large globs of solder from springboard to remove it. (It was soldered to pill) I checked and found continuity beteeen the + and - of the out put (to diode) of driver. Checking a working sxd driver I found no continuity. Checking the tailcap switch, I found it not working and in the on position. I have included pictures and if anyone wants me to check anything just let me know. I really just want to be done with this and move on. Am waiting to hear from GLR.
 

Attachments

  • 24.jpg
    24.jpg
    101 KB · Views: 74
  • 23.jpg
    23.jpg
    105.3 KB · Views: 74
  • 22.jpg
    22.jpg
    129.3 KB · Views: 73
  • 21.jpg
    21.jpg
    68.3 KB · Views: 74
Hi,
As you know, I volunteered to help GLR with his laser, no chage as long as I had his parents permission. I also want to say once he decided what he wants done to it, I will fix it and send it to his parents who will have to sign for it. I've been trying to stay neutral on this matter and will continue to do so. I would also like to say that I am not a laser pro nor do I claim to be one as I am a hobby laserer and have no desire to build or repair lasers for anyone but myself. I hope I don't regret trying to help GLR in this matter. I want to say that this is the first SS Survival Laser host ive seen and i am impressed. Very nice.

The laser:
Survival Laser stainless steel with cone focus adapter
Lens : 3element
Diode: open can 9mm
Driver: sxd (?) Adjustable

Disassembly :
The case was very tight and had to put in padded vise to open. Diode module wouldn't budge and had to be pressed out, seems as a silver adhesive(thermal?) was used and was also on case threads possibly making it hard to open. There was no back half on module. Cut shrink tube away from connection between driver and diode to find loose connections. One was twisted together and the other had a small piece of sheet metal (connector?) Covering a twisted connection. Appeared as tho soldering was attempted, but one connection fell apart (the one with metal) and one I simply un twisted. Needles to say the solder attempt failed. I put diode on my psu to find it works (good news) and was hopeful the laser was salvagable. I then put driver on test load to find it not working. I had to use my desoldering iron to remove large globs of solder from springboard to remove it. (It was soldered to pill) I checked and found continuity beteeen the + and - of the out put (to diode) of driver. Checking a working sxd driver I found no continuity. Checking the tailcap switch, I found it not working and in the on position. I have included pictures and if anyone wants me to check anything just let me know. I really just want to be done with this and move on. Am waiting to hear from GLR.

Is that Alien's or GLR's soldering? I'd almost recommend popping the diode out and putting it into a bigger host with a new driver.
 
GLR said he was unable to get it open so the soldering (or lack of) isn't his.also, the silver substance may be thermal compuond that cooked because of heat from the lack of module back half.
 
GLR said he was unable to get it open so the soldering (or lack of) isn't his.also, the silver substance may be thermal compuond that cooked because of heat from the lack of module back half.

Oh man, I hate to criticise too much, but that's some terrible soldering work to be from a builder.:(

It's definitely some sort of thermal adhesive or baked liquid. Maybe it was put on the rear of the diode and assembled before drying, getting it all over everything.

I'd try some careful acetone or isopropyl application if it comes down to removal.

As for the driver. Check available solder pads' continuity to the pill. I think that there might be shorted components to the pill or a bad glob of solder shorting it. Can you give a resistance between the two lead pads?

For the switch, does it still click and move well? Might be able to salvage it by removing the solder and simply cleaning it up.
 
Showing 5.56 with dmmm set at 20k.will be a while before i can get to driver as the silver substance is also y he adhesive attaching driver to heatsink pill and ill have to slowly cut it away with razor knife

Edit;
Switch clicks, will remove it and check it later on this evening

Edit:
Took switch apart and fixed it
Also put diode back on psu, nice clean output at 4.5 amp and lens is clean (no dust)
 

Attachments

  • 2016-06-16 14.47.48.jpg
    2016-06-16 14.47.48.jpg
    88.9 KB · Views: 41
Last edited:
Hi
Holy crap i thought my 462 sinner i bought was bad but what the hell is all that mess. Shame on whoever did this sacrilege on this build. Hey VV make it awesome again buddy.

Rich:)
 
Hi Rich,
Gonna do my best unfortunately GLR only has $45 to work with. I'm gonna try and salvage the driver heatsink pill and battery board so all he'll need is a driver. Trying to get the brass ring out of pill now. Imo, this host will do ok with this diode as long as it has at least a cu 1/2 back, preferably a whole one. Not sure yet if a whole one will work. The duty cycle will have to be short.
Also, I'd use 18350 efest or AW batteries instead of 16340's
 
Last edited:
Hi VV,
Good choice for up grading the cells , When i have to desolder a pill from a board use a solder vacuum pump . they work well and get most of the solder out of the way. Hey if you have to get any arctic alumina of the driver i use an exact knife they are awesome and very sharp. i always have two on my bench, they got me out of a lot of jams. also with a professional result, take you time buddy..

Rich:)
 
Hi Rich,
I have an iron with a squeez bulb for desoldering, great for fixing boo Boo's ...lol. using razor to remove driver but it's so close to the heatsink not sure if the driver's gonna come out in one piece. I removed one successfully a while back. I have a few days to get it done while waiting on a driver. Thanks for the support

Edit:
Got the driver separated from the driver heatsink at the cost of a component or two, lots of adhesive (pic below)
Also, can only use the cu half back for module, better than nothing
 

Attachments

  • 2016-06-16 19.44.54.jpg
    2016-06-16 19.44.54.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 47
Last edited:
Hi,
As you know, I volunteered to help GLR with his laser, no chage as long as I had his parents permission. I also want to say once he decided what he wants done to it, I will fix it and send it to his parents who will have to sign for it. I've been trying to stay neutral on this matter and will continue to do so. I would also like to say that I am not a laser pro nor do I claim to be one as I am a hobby laserer and have no desire to build or repair lasers for anyone but myself. I hope I don't regret trying to help GLR in this matter. I want to say that this is the first SS Survival Laser host ive seen and i am impressed. Very nice.

The laser:
Survival Laser stainless steel with cone focus adapter
Lens : 3element
Diode: open can 9mm
Driver: sxd (?) Adjustable

Disassembly :
The case was very tight and had to put in padded vise to open. Diode module wouldn't budge and had to be pressed out, seems as a silver adhesive(thermal?) was used and was also on case threads possibly making it hard to open. There was no back half on module. Cut shrink tube away from connection between driver and diode to find loose connections. One was twisted together and the other had a small piece of sheet metal (connector?) Covering a twisted connection. Appeared as tho soldering was attempted, but one connection fell apart (the one with metal) and one I simply un twisted. Needles to say the solder attempt failed. I put diode on my psu to find it works (good news) and was hopeful the laser was salvagable. I then put driver on test load to find it not working. I had to use my desoldering iron to remove large globs of solder from springboard to remove it. (It was soldered to pill) I checked and found continuity beteeen the + and - of the out put (to diode) of driver. Checking a working sxd driver I found no continuity. Checking the tailcap switch, I found it not working and in the on position. I have included pictures and if anyone wants me to check anything just let me know. I really just want to be done with this and move on. Am waiting to hear from GLR.
You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din! :beer:
 
Hi VV,
Wow theres enough adhesive on there to do 10 builds, Like Coherent says good luck if its just a driver to sacrifice go for it. Love the pics of this abortion Dr.VV

rich:)
 
Lol @Dr VV,
Was going to push diode out of module and press it into another because of all the adhesive on it but there's so much adhesive on the back of diode and the pins are 1/8" long for some reason (like you'd cut them to solder directly to the driver) I decided to just clean it up best I can. Got enough adhesive off back half threads to get a half cu back on, need a driver and I'll be done
 
Last edited:
Hi VV,K
Keep us posted on the resurrection looking good so far, nice thing you did for GLR hope he treats this as a great second chance.

Rich:)
 
Thanks for everything virtue, it may be some time till i order a driver i am currently looking into other lasers for myself. Going to have my friend make an account so he can explain his view soon, and any future lasers he wants will go through him. Im just glad this fiasco is over.
 


Back
Top