My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

[Borislav@87]

The NUBM08 has divergence like the NUBM44, you will get a bar 50mm long at 15meters with a focused G2 and about 22-23mm long with a focused 3-element.

However the NUBM42 and NUBM49 have even worse divergence and your bar will be even longer, also your power output will be lower with the 42 and 49 than the 08

I have all the nubm diodes and I have tested them all.

View attachment 74558

My diode is not NUBM08 but this is NUBM0E. They are different

 

[RedCowboy]

Yes I know I also have NUBM0E and that's what I tested here

I was talking about the NUBM08 and NUBM49 because your link to a sales page is for 08's and 49's

 

[Borislav@87]

Yes I know I also have NUBM0E and that's what I tested here

I was talking about the NUBM08 and NUBM49 because your link to a sales page is for 08's and 49's

Yes, this is the connection, but there is an option to select diodes. The last one is NUBM0E. I bought it from this merchant

 

[Borislav@87]

Yes I know I also have NUBM0E and that's what I tested here

I was talking about the NUBM08 and NUBM49 because your link to a sales page is for 08's and 49's

Is the diode you have NUBM0E canned, because you never said?

 

[RedCowboy]

The NUBM08 has the same divergence and a little bit more output at a lower current so the 08 is more efficient.

My NUBM0E has it's GBall removed, but it has a window can and inert backfill to protect the facet.

The window is AR coated and doesn't change the raw output, so it's the same as de-canned but it will last a lot longer.

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[Borislav@87]

The NUBM08 has the same divergence and a little bit more output at a lower current so the 08 is more efficient.

My NUBM0E has it's GBall removed, but it has a window can and inert backfill to protect the facet.

The window is AR coated and doesn't change the raw output, so it's the same as de-canned but it will last a lot longer.

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Mine is exactly the same as the link you provided. You can see the difference in power in the unprotected diode. I had bought 2 pieces, but as I mentioned one was damaged. From now on I will buy only unprotected diodes. I rarely use lasers. They will probably spend years with me. I realized that I should avoid changing lenses because dust enters.

 

[RedCowboy]

You can run them how ever you want, but you are making more waste heat past 5A and as particulate burns onto your facet you will get less output and more waste heat, heat buildup causes output to fall and as we overdrive these diodes waste heat already bottlenecks, we can use active cooling and get a little more power but it's not really worth it for short duty cycles.

Anyway I would suggest the recapped window can diode and driving @ 5A in a good heat sink.......and your LPM is reading high, these diodes won't do 9W .......well maybe if you chilled one and kept it around 40F but better yet is the NUBM08 which will do 7W @ 4.5A where the 0E is doing 6.5W @ 5A

There's always a chance that you got a freak diode that actually outputs 8.5-9.0W @ 6A but chances are you won't get another like it and I suspect your LPM is reading high.

 

[RedCowboy]

I still prefer the NUBM44 with it's factory window can, not GBall and it's good for 7.5W @ 4.5A but the NUBM0E recapped is less expensive, the NUBM0A is basically a NUBM44 with a GBall, the NUBM0A could be a good deal with a window can recap and backfill, if I didn't already have several 44's I might request a batch of 0A's recapped/backfilled.

 

[Borislav@87]

I still prefer the NUBM44 with it's factory window can, not GBall and it's good for 7.5W @ 4.5A but the NUBM0E recapped is less expensive, the NUBM0A is basically a NUBM44 with a GBall, the NUBM0A could be a good deal with a window can recap and backfill, if I didn't already have several 44's I might request a batch of 0A's recapped/backfilled.

When I receive the second unprotected diode NUBM0E, I will share again what the power is. As you say, it is possible that I have joined a rare number, which is more powerful. But the difference is definitely very big. He ignites objects very quickly, while the other cannot. This is exactly what is mysterious to me in the whole story. Anyway, I can only be happy that I have joined such a number.

 

[Borislav@87]

After I changed the resistor, the driver took out the starting amperage 5.8A. I will put a very large brass radiator on this laser. It's going to be heavy and ugly, but I'm not doing it for sale.
I like NUBM0E because it glows light blue. Probably over 460nm

 

[RedCowboy]

Maybe 455nm but if you want a 462nm try an NUBM07 or NUBM0C or NDB7675 ...... you will see the difference, the 7675 can be overdriven quite a bit, see here. Also there's the Sharp 488nm which is only doing about 200mw @ 450ma overdriven, but it's single mode which means much lower divergence and the beam is fantastic at night with a G8 lens and it's a blue/green chameleon that your perception of changes based on the background, very cool laser diode.

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Sharp488

 

[Borislav@87]

I have another redundant stock 4.5A driver. Then I will buy it as you told me NUBM08 and I will assemble a fourth laser. But I think this is the end, because 4 lasers is crazy and I don't see the point.

 

[Borislav@87]

Picture 1 NUBM0E with protection
Picture 2 NUBM0E without protection

 

[nmbusa]

I'm wondering if there will be long term damage to the driver. Any idea if that can be determined? I dunno. I don't know circuitry that well.

i did the driver mod april last year in a nubm44 still going strong set at 4.7A as for "damage" 3 drivers for 10 bucks not a big loss if something gives mosfet rated for 10A
chinese driver mod

 

[Borislav@87]

NUBM0E vs NUBM0E

 

[RedCowboy]

Your picking up waste heat that close, also any light you can't focus through a lens, you can't use to do work, so test at 8 inches ( 20 cm ) or more away with the lens you're going to use to burn trees or whatever your going to use the laser for........it's not going to be a blue flashlight running without a lens.

So test it with a lens at 20 cm or more distance from your sensor so you are testing the power of the beam you will actually use and don't test so close or your sensor will pick up waste heat.