My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

[Borislav@87]

Your picking up waste heat that close, also any light you can't focus through a lens, you can't use to do work, so test at 8 inches ( 20 cm ) or more away with the lens you're going to use to burn trees or whatever your going to use the laser for........it's not going to be a blue flashlight running without a lens.

So test it with a lens at 20 cm or more distance from your sensor so you are testing the power of the beam you will actually use and don't test so close or your sensor will pick up waste heat.

This test was without a lens to see the difference without a lens. I did a lens test on the top and again the difference is big

 

[RedCowboy]

We are not building flashlights, anything you cant focus into a coherent beam is of no use to us.

Measure the power of your laser beam ( G2 lens is the best @ 95% efficient ) and set your laser device at least 10cm from your sensor so you don't get heat energy from your device heat sink.

 

[Borislav@87]

We are not building flashlights, anything you cant focus into a coherent beam is of no use to us.

Measure the power of your laser beam ( G2 lens is the best @ 95% efficient ) and set your laser device at least 10cm from your sensor so you don't get heat energy from your device heat sink.

I have a G2 lens. I don't want to take my lenses off all the time because I want to avoid getting foreign particles. I don't like the look of the beam with the G2 lens. He is too distracted. With lens 3 Element the stain is the smallest and tightest. Although there is a power drop of 20-30%, in my case the device shows a loss of 18%, because the quality of the lenses probably matters. The beam strength at a distance of 3-5 meters is strongest with a 3 Element lens

 

[Borislav@87]

1.5M Burning 9W
Lens 3 Element

 

[Borislav@87]

My brass laser is almost ready. However, it became very heavy. With batteries it will probably become 1kg

 

[Borislav@87]

I forgot to ask because brass has poorer conductivity than aluminum, will it be a problem for the diode?
Aluminum 210~
Brass 110~

 

[RedCowboy]

A lot of perple use aluminum, but some use copper and sometimes brass, brass should be good enough, of course with a de-canned diode you will have more waste heat to deal with as damage builds up on your facet, but for a hobby item it's not really critical, it should be fine, you could also make a copper head the same size and do a test, but I expect for a short duty cycle it won't make that much difference.

 

[Borislav@87]

A lot of perple use aluminum, but some use copper and sometimes brass, brass should be good enough, of course with a de-canned diode you will have more waste heat to deal with as damage builds up on your facet, but for a hobby item it's not really critical, it should be fine, you could also make a copper head the same size and do a test, but I expect for a short duty cycle it won't make that much difference.

The diode will be placed in a copper housing, and it will be mounted in the brass. He will show if everything will be all right. Thermal paste will help in this case. Also the larger rear of the diode will fit directly to the radiator. This way the cooling will be better. The laser will be used infrequently. I just do it for fun. I don't use them often. Most of the time they stay in a closet. I'm waiting for the diode to arrive these days and install it. I will share what power it will show. As the starting voltage will be again 6A

 

[RedCowboy]

Nice work on the brass housing.

Any more than 5.5A you're going to get diminishing returns, 5.0A is really all you need especially if you want a decent duty cycle, granted from a cold start you can see a slightly higher peak reading at 6.0A but as heat builds up your output will fall below what you would be getting at 5.5A and I can see from my readings these diodes are tougher but not quite as efficient as the previous units which looked to be 450nm, these look to be 455nm so I expect that's what the maker wanted the most to work best with a specific range of phosphors.

Enjoy and remember to always lase safely, don't shine at any vehicles, people or windows, even the distraction can cause problems.

 

[Borislav@87]

Nice work on the brass housing.

Any more than 5.5A you're going to get diminishing returns, 5.0A is really all you need especially if you want a decent duty cycle, granted from a cold start you can see a slightly higher peak reading at 6.0A but as heat builds up your output will fall below what you would be getting at 5.5A and I can see from my readings these diodes are tougher but not quite as efficient as the previous units which looked to be 450nm, these look to be 455nm so I expect that's what the maker wanted the most to work best with a specific range of phosphors.

Enjoy and remember to always lase safely, don't shine at any vehicles, people or windows, even the distraction can cause problems.

I want to ask something. In the beginning, the blue spot on the diode was solid. At the moment I see that lines have appeared, some of which are darker. What does this result from? Probably the diode is slowly dying. This is a protection diode NUBM0E for about 3-4 months and is not overheated. Probably the reason is that it works on a large amperage 5.5-6A and it comes in more.
I will make the brass laser work at 5A, and instead of putting R082 I will put R100 and according to the information the amperage will be 4.9-5.0A

 

[Borislav@87]

However, I decided to lower the amperage to 5.2A by replacing the resistors on the three custom lasers. Because 6A probably kills the diode gradually. What I did. I replaced resistor R082 with R100. That is, the old combination at 6A was like this

R082 / R082 + R500 = 5.9-6A

Now the combination is like this

R082 / R100 + R500 = 5.2A

Original combination
R082 / R50 + R500 = 4.5-4.6A

5.2A

5.9A

 

[Borislav@87]

Today another NUBM0E diode arrived and I assembled my last project. It became very heavy overall. At 2 minutes of operation it heats up very little with this radiator. I modified the driver to 5-5.2A and it works very well. The power on my meter with lens 3 element showed 8W. It all happened the first time. Only the key on the brass cap did not last and broke. I tried a new one, but apparently 5A comes in most and it fucks up. I am using a lantern cap at the moment and everything is ok. I ordered 17mm keys and I'm waiting for them to arrive. With this laser I finish so far fa assemble more. It will probably stay in the closet because it is heavy and difficult to carry.

 

[RedCowboy]

Very nice, have you ever used a beam expander ?

X3 Beam Expander - Laser Lens - Long Distance Pointing Power - M9x0.5 Adapter | eBay

The X3 beam expander is excellent for handheld lasers. The X3 beam expander is compatible with standard M9 x 0.5 lenses using the included adapter. X3 Beam Expander. Adapter thread M11.4x0.5mm. I am usually very quick to respond and I'm more than happy to help.

www.ebay.com

 

[Borislav@87]

Very nice, have you ever used a beam expander ?

X3 Beam Expander - Laser Lens - Long Distance Pointing Power - M9x0.5 Adapter | eBay

The X3 beam expander is excellent for handheld lasers. The X3 beam expander is compatible with standard M9 x 0.5 lenses using the included adapter. X3 Beam Expander. Adapter thread M11.4x0.5mm. I am usually very quick to respond and I'm more than happy to help.

www.ebay.com

I know it but I haven't used it. Honestly, I don't see the point. With 3 Element lens the beam is very good and tight. Also, its price is quite high and so it literally refuses me to buy it for a test. For this price I would assemble 2 more lasers with diode NUBM0E. Or green laser with NUGM04T 1.6W with up to 2.2W
I want to assemble something as small as possible, such as size. Example body of Convoy S11 with power 5W + at 4.5A. I have a driver available right now, but honestly I don't get any more money. On average, everything with 2 26350 batteries will cost me about 100 dollars, not including the construction of a radiator, because I make it at home on a lathe

 

[Borislav@87]

Just to share. After about a month of using my second laser with an unprotected diode NUBM0E, its power dropped dramatically. I don't know what caused it, but I didn't overheat it or anything like that. I think the reason is the high amperage at which he worked from 6A. At the moment I have set all my lasers to work at 5A and the heat is definitely much less. For information. My meter initially showed 9W with a 3 Element lens. It now shows 6.5W. This means that I lost 2.5W of power. I do not know what exactly is due to this, but it is a fact that there is a great loss.
Both my protected and unprotected diodes have lost their power and the device shows me that with a 3 Elements lens they are 6-6.5W. My new brass laser is still very powerful at the moment and the device showed a 3 Element 8W lens at 5A. However, I don't know if I will use it if he loses so much of his strength. For now, it will be locked in the locker I don't know if there are such power losses with the NUBM44 laser diode

 

[RedCowboy]

NUBM44 runs best at 4.5A for 7.5W but your reading may be higher and they last a long time as they have a window can and protective gas backfill.