My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

[Borislav@87]

You judge how powerful the laser is. This is with a 3 Element lens. In my opinion, these are real 9W power at 6A

 

[Unown (WILD)]

Poor tree lol. Man I gotta make a high power build at some point

 

[Borislav@87]

Poor tree lol. Man I gotta make a high power build at some point

I think that the NUBM0E laser diode is the cheapest and most powerful alternative with a modified driver of 5.5-6A

 

[RedCowboy]

I just retested my NUBM0E and there's no reason to drive it any harder than 5.0A because at 6.0A you start losing output due to excessive waste heat, the knee is at about 5.5A but you don't gain much from going to 5.5A from 5.0A so really 5.0A is as hard as you should drive it and I'm getting about 6.5W @ 5.0A

This is my only NUBM0E so I can get another and test it, but tell me what are you getting for results with any other laser diodes and with what lens, because I know what they should all output, I expect your homemade meter is reading a bit high.

My test is a NUBM0E with a DTR G2 lens which is the best to test with as a 3E will clip your beam.

 

[Borislav@87]

Hello. I saw what you wrote. I have a G8 lens on hand. I recorded the video with her. Both lasers have charged batteries, same room temperature, cold start, same driver. The only difference is that one diode is original unprotected, the other is preserved. See for yourself the difference. My appliance is probably not very accurate, but the canned diode shows very close to your results with a professional appliance. I say again. The difference is very big in strength. An unprotected diode burns things instantly, while a canned one can't. And the diode diodes are relatively new, not overheated or anything. They were bought by the same merchant on eBay.

The results are 6.3W vs 9.8W in favor of the diode without protection
With the unprotected diode we get 55% more power!

 

[Borislav@87]

In this video I showed how I modified the driver to 6A

 

[Unown (WILD)]

Is it ok to swap out the resistors on the driver?

 

[Borislav@87]

Is it ok to swap out the resistors on the driver?

If you are looking for more power yes. You need to remove R50 and replace it with R082. So you will have 5.5 / 6A. The driver handles without problems.
Original R50+R500 / R082 = 4.5A
Mod R082+R500 / R082 = 5.5-6A
Mod R100+R500 / R082 = 4.9А

I use high-discharge batteries 18650. According to description 20A

 

[RedCowboy]

The factory GBall lenses are very efficient, I had tested them before at better than 95% efficient, also you will lose output fast running your laser diode without a heat sink at 6A, I expect your homemade LPM is not accurate.

The 3 element lens causes edge clipping of your beam resulting in a 30% loss from what you get with a G2

Also I have found the NUBM0A to be the strongest GBall next to the NUBM08 with both reaching 7W @ 5A

 

[Unown (WILD)]

If you are looking for more power yes. You need to remove R50 and replace it with R082. So you will have 5.5 / 6A. The driver handles without problems.
Original R50+R500 / R082 = 4.5A
Mod R082+R500 / R082 = 5.5-6A
Mod R100+R500 / R082 = 4.9А

I use high-discharge batteries 18650. According to description 20A

I'm wondering if there will be long term damage to the driver. Any idea if that can be determined? I dunno. I don't know circuitry that well.

 

[Borislav@87]

The factory GBall lenses are very efficient, I had tested them before at better than 95% efficient, also you will lose output fast running your laser diode without a heat sink at 6A, I expect your homemade LPM is not accurate.

The 3 element lens causes edge clipping of your beam resulting in a 30% loss from what you get with a G2

Also I have found the NUBM0A to be the strongest GBall next to the NUBM08 with both reaching 7W @ 5A

Yes, I know the G2 has the least loss but I don't like the beam width. With a 3 element lens the beam is stronger over long distances. While the G2 loses power because it is distracted. At 5.5 / 6A it is normal to heat up faster. However, I rarely use it for more than 30 seconds. I just want a lot of power in a short time and I'm getting it right now. I know it's not good for the laser diode. However, if I want to dedicate more, there is a weak mode in which, according to my device, it delivers 3.2 / 3.5W. I don't know how accurate my device is, but it shows more or less exactly. However, you saw the difference between the power of the preserved diode and the one without protection. I will mean those diodes you say. I will unravel them because I will make a third laser soon.

 

[Borislav@87]

I'm wondering if there will be long term damage to the driver. Any idea if that can be determined? I dunno. I don't know circuitry that well.

Well, if it doesn't overheat and there is good cooling, I don't see a problem. Life will probably be shorter, but we are talking about many hours here. I rarely play with lasers. I just want a lot of power in a short time. I'm writing again. There is a weak mode with which you can shine for a long time. A little over 3W is enough to spend the evening

 

[Borislav@87]

The factory GBall lenses are very efficient, I had tested them before at better than 95% efficient, also you will lose output fast running your laser diode without a heat sink at 6A, I expect your homemade LPM is not accurate.

The 3 element lens causes edge clipping of your beam resulting in a 30% loss from what you get with a G2

Also I have found the NUBM0A to be the strongest GBall next to the NUBM08 with both reaching 7W @ 5A

This is a test without a lens

 

[Borislav@87]

I'm wondering if there will be long term damage to the driver. Any idea if that can be determined? I dunno. I don't know circuitry that well.

You do not need knowledge to modify the driver. You need a soldering iron and purchased resistors R082. You solder the two resistors, first R500, then R50 and in place of R50 solder R082 and put R500 on it again. That is all. There is nothing complicated in the whole procedure. It takes 5 minutes.

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[Unown (WILD)]

You do not need knowledge to modify the driver. You need a soldering iron and purchased resistors R082. You solder the two resistors, first R500, then R50 and in place of R50 solder R082 and put R500 on it again. That is all. There is nothing complicated in the whole procedure. It takes 5 minutes.

Laser Diode LD Driver Board PCB 4.5A for 3.5W NDB7A75 3 Modes High Low Strobe | eBay

This Laser Diode Driver PCB 4.5A Constant Current can be used to drive 3.5W NDB7A75. This is a 4.5 Amp laser diode driver with 3 modes, high, low, and strobe. Most people will use 2 Lithium ion IMR or INR batteries at 8.4 volts.

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100PCS 0.082 ohm Ω R082 82mR ±1% 1/4W SMD Chip Resistor 1206 (3216) 3.2mm×1.6mm | eBay

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That's not the reason why I said that. I said that because I cannot determine if it will have long-term damage to the driver.

 

[RedCowboy]

You are placing your de-canned laser diode unit without a lens very close to your sensor, I know you are doing this to get all of the rapidly widening beam onto the sensor, however you are also reading waste heat from your lasers heat sink and I don't think your meter is accurate, the most powerful of the multi mode blues is doing 8W and that's the NUBM4F

Are you getting 6W with a 3 element ? If so your meter is definitely reading too high.

What other laser diodes have you tested other than NUBM0E ? What lens were you using and what was your reading ?