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My Furst Custom laser 7W+ NUBM0E

Borislav@87

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NUBM44 runs best at 4.5A for 7.5W but your reading may be higher and they last a long time as they have a window can and protective gas backfill.
I will wait a bit to see how 5A will affect NUBM0E. I hope it lasts longer and its strength stays longer. Another option is to lower the amperage and make it 4.5A, as it was originally. Currently at 5.2A my 3 Element lens device showed 8W in the cold state. Let's say that at 4.5A the power will be around 7W
 



Borislav@87

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I did a little test. These two days I used my very second laser, which lost 3W according to my meter. That is, with a 3 Element lens, I initially measured 9W at 6A current. However, after about 2 weeks the device showed completely different numbers 7.2W, after a week I did a test again and it was already 6W. Then I set all my lasers to work at 5.2A. The device read the same power at 5.2A, which is enough for the maximum of these diodes. I was wondering how much power could be lost after using the laser in more extreme conditions. I spent two days checking this out. I used the laser until it warmed up a lot and this thing happened many times. Today I did a measurement test again and to my joy the device showed me 6W/6.3W again with a 3 Element lens. That is, after extreme use, its power had not diminished, but was the same. My conclusion is that this sharp drop is mainly due to the very high amperage I used in the beginning 6A. And it quickly destroys the diode. I also used my new brass laser, but moderately and still no drop in power, which is very good because I would be very angry. In short, my conclusion is that the NUBM0E laser diode should not transfer 5A voltage, because it is quickly damaged. It is best to use 4.5A, which is standard for my driver or light mode with resistors R120 = 4.7A or R120 = 5.2A
 
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RedCowboy

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4.5A is a good setting and the nubm44 with it's window can will last a long time, after months of daily use mine still tested @ 7W+
The nubm44 window can is not a lens so you don't need to remove it like the nubm0e
 

Borislav@87

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4.5A is a good setting and the nubm44 with it's window can will last a long time, after months of daily use mine still tested @ 7W+
The nubm44 window can is not a lens so you don't need to remove it like the nubm0e
And what power does the 3 Element lens show, I'm interested in it? From a man I know that NUBM0E at 5A showed over 460nm. While NUBM44 honestly looks visibly darker with its 445nm. I also think that at 4.5A and NUBM0E there will be no drop in power for a long time. It's just that these 6As come in handy and they're to blame. I guess NUBM44 if used on 6A and it will not last long
 

Borislav@87

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4.5A is a good setting and the nubm44 with it's window can will last a long time, after months of daily use mine still tested @ 7W+
The nubm44 window can is not a lens so you don't need to remove it like the nubm0e
I would be very grateful if you would like to do as my $ 5 meter and make a comparison with yours. This comparison will be very useful for many people
 

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RedCowboy

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I told you what my nubm0e tested and I know what nubm44 will test at any given current, when you get another diode besides nubm0e you can test it and compare to mine, your nubm0e readings are higher than mine, that said I only have just 1 nubm0e but I have 15 or more nubm44
 

Borislav@87

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I told you what my nubm0e tested and I know what nubm44 will test at any given current, when you get another diode besides nubm0e you can test it and compare to mine, your nubm0e readings are higher than mine, that said I only have just 1 nubm0e but I have 15 or more nubm44
My device reads very close to yours, which. At room temperature with a 3 Elements lens at 5.2A my first laser shows 5.6W, the second 6W, and the new third that is not used shows 8W. I have three different types of Element lenses and one of them transmits more power than the others. It probably matters what the lenses are and their quality. In the test without a lens and with a 3 Element lens, the power loss is about 20-22%.

I did a test with a G2 lens. This showed my first laser in a few months. This is a cold start at 23 degrees at 5.2A. I think the results are very similar to yours in the NUBM0E test. However, the new one with a G2 lens will show over 9W at 5.2A. But he is also visibly more powerful. Ignites a very fast 1.5 meter tree with a 3 Element lens.

Which is to say that the G2 lens is a terrible lens if you are looking for a small and focused beam. It is only for burning objects at close range. It is clear that with him the power is greatest, but in this case we are talking about power for close distances. Lens 3 Element burns objects from a few meters while G2 can not because the beam is too distracted. In this case, the power is not the most important, and the concentrated beam gives much more power over long distances, although with less power
 

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RedCowboy

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It's a matter of the " focal length " of your lenses and the 3 element uses...... ( 3 elements ) to effect a longer focal length, however there are losses due to edge clipping of the beam, the G8 is a single element with a longer focal length and less losses even with the higher divergence of the nubm0e compared to say....a ndb7875, this is why I mentioned the 3X beam expander, it lets you focus tighter at longer distance.

The G2 is a shorter focal length single element AR coated lens and is very efficient, IINM it's 2.35mm FL
The 3-element is somewhere around 5mm EFL and around 70% efficient with the diodes natural divergence also being a factor.
The G8 is 8mm FL

There is EFL and BFL ( effective focal length ) and ( back focal length ) but lets not concern ourselves with that as it's not a big factor in what were doing here, for our practical purposes the 3 most common lenses are G2 = short, 3E = medium, G8 = long

It's a shame that you might have had a freak laser diode that's extra strong but had to remove the protective lens-can, it would have been a good one for the Chinese to re-capped with a window can and protective gas back-fill, I may order again another nubm0e re-canned and test it, however I'm not expecting it to be like what you describe, 9W through a 3-element would mean 12W through a G2.....yet that's not the result you got.........so something in your testing doesn't add up, because the G2 is 95% efficient while the best 3-element is no more than 70% efficient.
 

Borislav@87

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It's a matter of the " focal length " of your lenses and the 3 element uses...... ( 3 elements ) to effect a longer focal length, however there are losses due to edge clipping of the beam, the G8 is a single element with a longer focal length and less losses even with the higher divergence of the nubm0e compared to say....a ndb7875, this is why I mentioned the 3X beam expander, it lets you focus tighter at longer distance.

The G2 is a shorter focal length single element AR coated lens and is very efficient, IINM it's 2.35mm FL
The 3-element is somewhere around 5mm EFL and around 70% efficient with the diodes natural divergence also being a factor.
The G8 is 8mm FL

There is EFL and BFL ( effective focal length ) and ( back focal length ) but lets not concern ourselves with that as it's not a big factor in what were doing here, for our practical purposes the 3 most common lenses are G2 = short, 3E = medium, G8 = long

It's a shame that you might have had a freak laser diode that's extra strong but had to remove the protective lens-can, it would have been a good one for the Chinese to re-capped with a window can and protective gas back-fill, I may order again another nubm0e re-canned and test it, however I'm not expecting it to be like what you describe, 9W through a 3-element would mean 12W through a G2.....yet that's not the result you got.........so something in your testing doesn't add up, because the G2 is 95% efficient while the best 3-element is no more than 70% efficient.
Yes, I'm familiar with the lenses above and below. I have G2, G8 and a few 3 Element. Simply from everything I tested, the 3 Element lens is the best if you are looking for the tightest. Just a matter of personal choice. Yes, I understand that this 9W figure is too high for this 3 Element lens diode. It just shows my device to him. The new NUBM0E mounted on the brass laser also reports a large figure of 8W. I can only say that there is a visible difference in the power of the diode at these 8W and at my other dea lasers, which the device reads at 6 / 6.5W. No, I do not intend to buy a professional meter, because I do not see the point in giving extra money, and it is expensive. The one I use has approximate power and is completely amateur. But I'm sure the power is over 7W at 5.2A. This diode at 3.5A emits 5.5W of power. So at 5.2A it definitely exceeds 7W. Probably your number is from an old batch and gives poorer results. That's how I explain it.
 

RedCowboy

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Incorrect, the output in relation to your drive current is not linear, that is what you get out at 6 amps in will not be twice what you get out at 3 amps in.

Here's a test DTR did of a NUBM08 a while back.

87Uxdi.png
 

Borislav@87

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Yes, I know it's not linear. I saw this test of yours on NUBM08. In my opinion, NUBM0E gives more power because it handles a little better with higher amperage.
Later I will record a video of my two lasers with a G2 lens. The comparison will be with my second laser, which I made and worked at 6A for a while and is currently set to 5.2A, and with my new brass laser, which is brand new and only worked very little for the 5.2A test.
 
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Borislav@87

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I recorded a comparison between the old diode, which worked at 6A and the new one, which worked very little at 5.2A. I both put on a G2 lens. The difference in power is visible and it is 2W more for the new laser diode in the brass laser. I will mention again that the deata lasers have fully charged batteries, run on 5.2A and are tested on a cold start. I also uploaded a photo to see the old NUBM0E compared to the new one. The black lines in the blue spot are clearly visible. The new one doesn't have them yet and the stain is thick. I say again. In my opinion, the reason for the rapid decline in power and the appearance of these black lines is the work at 6A. It's just that this amperage destroys the diode very quickly. I'm waiting for a brand new NUBM0E to arrive, which I will install in a very small brass radiator, because I want to have the smallest and most practical laser possible. However, I plan to run at 4.5A and see how long it will maintain the same power. I can do it at 4.7A, but I'll think about it. I just need to put resistor R120 in place of R50 and so the amperage will be 4.7A

 

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Borislav@87

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Slight improvement in the lens. So it is very stable without play. Also protect from water and moisture.
 

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GeramyL

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Is it possible to put the laser through a fiber cable, come out the other end, and compress the light?
 

RedCowboy

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No, a length of fiber will not improve your lasers coherence length, it will make it worse.....unless you are pumping an active fiber gain medium such as double clad doped fiber, but it's not a simple process.
 




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