grainde
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- Jan 29, 2012
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Well this will be an ongoing build thread for my first attempt at a combined yellow laser. I will try to detail what worked (and what didnt), which should help you avoid making the same mistakes. 
The laser is actually almost complete, but it looks like I may have to dismantle the optics once more as I think I have figured out some of the issues with the dot - more on this later.
So the things you will need are:
1) Dual diode host - Im using this from Ehgemus. There have actually been a few build threads and from what I have seen Rogg, Jayrob, [URL="http://laserpointerforums.com/f40/yellow-tri-mag-90107.html"]Jayrob again![/URL] and Jander have made some incredibly impressive builds!
2) Two single mode diodes. Here Im using the PL520 and the Oclaro 170mW
3) Optics. Here I decided to use a first surface mirror from a projector and the turning mirror from a PHR-803T sled. Here I used an old PHR optic, but decided to get a couple of extra sleds for one more similar build I have planned. O-like was actually the cheapest source I found, but I have to admit that I did have issues once I had paid them. They were exceedingly quick to answer my questions about the payment, but once the transfer had been made there was absolutely no contact with them. After just over a week and 4 emails my order was still pending, so I opened a dispute, only after this did they bother to respond stating that they had shipped. According to the tracking, they actually shipped 2 days after I opened the case.:gun: I have left the case open and will keep it open until the items actually arrive. Due to this I cannot recommend them as a source for the sled as I would actually consider them a risk. Anyway I will keep you up to date with any new developments.
4) I would highly recommend the use of mounts for the optics. After having spent many hours playing with some copper wire, tape and epoxy, I can definitely confirm that an adjustable solid mount is the way to go. Unfortunately I only have a max of 13 mm to play with and so that wasnt an option here.
5) You should use the same lenses. This is important not only for the dot but also for the beam diameter/ cross section. Initially I started with a red acrylic on the 638 and a G9 lens on the 520; yes G lenses on single modes still give a nice dot, but the longer focal length of a 3 element and less splash make these a better choice. Remember to use the correct coating for the wavelength used.
2 Acrylics will also work, but there maybe artifacts/ splash around the dot. Edit I have now moved to dual acrylics as the 3 elements simply loose too much power. With the 3 element I was getting only 40 mW green and 30 mW after optics, with the acrylic this increased to 70 mW before and around 57 mW after the optics (PHR). The red also increased from 140 mW to 198 mW (the optics didnt make much difference to the power as the transmission above 600 is only around 1 %).
6) Drivers. Well you need to run both diodes with the same battery configuration and so you will need to choose your drivers carefully! Here I chose a buck for the red. As the Vf of the red at around 200 mA was 2.7 V the buck would stay in regulation, even on one battery. For the 520 with the very high Vf a boost was the way to go and as this also runs off one battery we were set to go. The two drivers used were and X-drive (buck) V6 and an X-Boost V7 mini. I actually asked for these drivers with pots as I wanted to be able to adjust the current once the alignment was correct in order to obtain the best colour mix.
Here are a couple of pics of the build so far:
and in action:
As you can see in the last pic there is just a little too much red to the RHS. there are also a couple of minor issues with the alignment that need correcting. But as I mentioned above, I may have to completely realign the optics and possibly rotate one of the diodes 90 ish degrees, which will mean effectively rebuilding. :undecided:
Well thats all for now, I will update tonight with more specific info on the build and a few more pics.:beer:
Update: After several hours repositioning the diodes, refocusing, regluing the optics and realigning them, this is the result
:beer:
Update:
After decicing to replace the mounts with adjustable ones, I spent a few hours with a saw, dremel and leatherman and came up with this!
Unfortunately at approx 1 cm2 it was too big so back to the drawing board- this was the result (one on the right):
Now to give you an idea of size this is my thumb and in the second photo an aixiz focus ring!
In the end I made 2 of them as Im making two identical yellow builds - one will be an xmas present
The dimensions are 1 cm x 0.6 cm x 0.4 mm (base where stands). Now I just have to wait for the new dichros and I should be set to go:beer:
The laser is actually almost complete, but it looks like I may have to dismantle the optics once more as I think I have figured out some of the issues with the dot - more on this later.
So the things you will need are:
1) Dual diode host - Im using this from Ehgemus. There have actually been a few build threads and from what I have seen Rogg, Jayrob, [URL="http://laserpointerforums.com/f40/yellow-tri-mag-90107.html"]Jayrob again![/URL] and Jander have made some incredibly impressive builds!
2) Two single mode diodes. Here Im using the PL520 and the Oclaro 170mW
3) Optics. Here I decided to use a first surface mirror from a projector and the turning mirror from a PHR-803T sled. Here I used an old PHR optic, but decided to get a couple of extra sleds for one more similar build I have planned. O-like was actually the cheapest source I found, but I have to admit that I did have issues once I had paid them. They were exceedingly quick to answer my questions about the payment, but once the transfer had been made there was absolutely no contact with them. After just over a week and 4 emails my order was still pending, so I opened a dispute, only after this did they bother to respond stating that they had shipped. According to the tracking, they actually shipped 2 days after I opened the case.:gun: I have left the case open and will keep it open until the items actually arrive. Due to this I cannot recommend them as a source for the sled as I would actually consider them a risk. Anyway I will keep you up to date with any new developments.
4) I would highly recommend the use of mounts for the optics. After having spent many hours playing with some copper wire, tape and epoxy, I can definitely confirm that an adjustable solid mount is the way to go. Unfortunately I only have a max of 13 mm to play with and so that wasnt an option here.
5) You should use the same lenses. This is important not only for the dot but also for the beam diameter/ cross section. Initially I started with a red acrylic on the 638 and a G9 lens on the 520; yes G lenses on single modes still give a nice dot, but the longer focal length of a 3 element and less splash make these a better choice. Remember to use the correct coating for the wavelength used.
2 Acrylics will also work, but there maybe artifacts/ splash around the dot. Edit I have now moved to dual acrylics as the 3 elements simply loose too much power. With the 3 element I was getting only 40 mW green and 30 mW after optics, with the acrylic this increased to 70 mW before and around 57 mW after the optics (PHR). The red also increased from 140 mW to 198 mW (the optics didnt make much difference to the power as the transmission above 600 is only around 1 %).
6) Drivers. Well you need to run both diodes with the same battery configuration and so you will need to choose your drivers carefully!
Here I chose a buck for the red. As the Vf of the red at around 200 mA was 2.7 V the buck would stay in regulation, even on one battery. For the 520 with the very high Vf a boost was the way to go and as this also runs off one battery we were set to go. The two drivers used were and X-drive (buck) V6 and an X-Boost V7 mini. I actually asked for these drivers with pots as I wanted to be able to adjust the current once the alignment was correct in order to obtain the best colour mix.Here are a couple of pics of the build so far:
and in action:
As you can see in the last pic there is just a little too much red to the RHS. there are also a couple of minor issues with the alignment that need correcting. But as I mentioned above, I may have to completely realign the optics and possibly rotate one of the diodes 90 ish degrees, which will mean effectively rebuilding. :undecided:
Well thats all for now, I will update tonight with more specific info on the build and a few more pics.:beer:
Update: After several hours repositioning the diodes, refocusing, regluing the optics and realigning them, this is the result
:beer:
Update:
After decicing to replace the mounts with adjustable ones, I spent a few hours with a saw, dremel and leatherman and came up with this!
Unfortunately at approx 1 cm2 it was too big so back to the drawing board- this was the result (one on the right)
:
Now to give you an idea of size this is my thumb and in the second photo an aixiz focus ring!
In the end I made 2 of them as Im making two identical yellow builds - one will be an xmas present
The dimensions are 1 cm x 0.6 cm x 0.4 mm (base where stands). Now I just have to wait for the new dichros and I should be set to go
:beer:
Last edited:
A new one has been soldered in now though and Im currently retesting.:beer: 
