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FrozenGate by Avery

My First IR Build

I'll go ahead and give you guys a laugh lol. Here's my IR build (without sadly the GRIN / FAC lens....)

It is USB powered, and the trigger does hit a momentary switch.... I got bored ok....

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Ok, from what I understand, we get the GRIN lens, and somehow mount it onto the diode. Then we pass it through the glass lens.

Sorry for the crudeness, it was a real quick 5 minute drawing....
But this is how I understand it: (I didn't make the light bend because it was a quick drawing.....)
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Ok, seriously, my last post for awhile. JayRob - this datasheet SHOULD be pretty much the same for our diodes.
http://axcelphotonics.com/datasheets/SS-808-PPPP-1XX

Also, I measured- the opening on the diode (top of the can) measures ~3.4mm +- .1 mm
So.... getting a 1.8mm thick GRIN lens mounted on it perfectly centered....
Only thing I can come up with is using a washer that is slightly thinner than the 1.8mm and sanding it until it is a perfect fit for the GRIN, then mounting that on the top of the can... now finding a washer that thin.... i don't know....
 
Hmmm... makes me just want to toss this diode and find a 9mm red with a dot...

It seems we should be able to get 500mW's of red with a dot doesn't it??

I can make a custom heatsink for a C-mount if needed...
 
The only diodes capable of much more than 300mW while still remaining singlemode (or just a dot) are blue (GaN) diodes. With red and IR everything around and above 500mW is multimode.

Also, and it may have already been stated, your power readings sound about right to me for 900mA of current. Get that thing the 1.3A it needs and it should come alive.
 
Thanks for the link, but I'm really loosing interest fast in this diode...

From what I understand, a fast axis lens would have to be mounted on/or practically on, the die!

Which means that the diode can would have to be removed.

So thanks to everybody for the input, but unless some easy lens adapter is available, I want to move on from this experiment...

I may do some of my own testing with various lenses and optics that I have when my IR goggles arrive.

You can be sure that if I stumble upon a solution, that I will share it!
 
jayrob said:
Thanks for the link, but I'm really loosing interest fast in this diode...

From what I understand, a fast axis lens would have to be mounted on/or practically on, the die!

Which means that the diode can would have to be removed.

So thanks to everybody for the input, but unless some easy lens adapter is available, I want to move on from this experiment...

I may do some of my own testing with various lenses and optics that I have when my IR goggles arrive.

You can be sure that if I stumble upon a solution, that I will share it!
Click to expand...

Thats to bad about the FAC lens. Heck yeah, we love to hear about this kind of stuff.

IR diodes... the secret killer :D
 
hey jay did u do any power tests with the diode without the aixiz module? just wondering why the diode is putting out so little, i was gonna make a couple of these.

Thanks, Hugo.
 
Yes I agree, it is not getting the 1.3 Amps that it is said to be rated for...

And also, my lens may not be capturing all of the light from the diode...
 
By the way, I am currently pushing about 1.4 amps into mine.... If i put electrical tape directly above the die (less than a mm away, but not actually touching), it punches a hole right through it with no problem. In fact..... I have a video of it lol. Give me a moment to pull the video from my laptop and upload, I'll post it in a few minutes....

And I don't want to give up at all on this diode... I don't have money to waste lol, so I have to get something out of it.

Besides, I discussed the whole GRIN lens thing with my father-in-law (mad scientist type engineer, brilliant man), and yes, the GRIN will do what we need. As far as mounting, I'm talking to someone from a company that makes these kinds of lens, he can probably provide a solution.
 
Nice, but you have to use heatsink for this To220 regulator and please....use bigger resistors and pots.
I can smell burning from here :D
 
Haha, why I only leave it on for a moment. The LM317 of course gets very hot very quick, which is why I normally only use this for maybe a second or 2 at a time. The 4ohm resistor has actually been bypassed.... was bring the current down to far. And once again- very crude thrown together driver while I wait for my other driver from DealExtreme
 
However, this small pot looks like in fire :D
I have big wirewound pot and it gets very hot after 10 seconds...can you imagine what would happen to your small pot :D

You should buy AMC7135 regulator (one that has 4 AMC7135 chips on PCB).
That driver should give you about 1.4A but don't give it more than 4.2V.

That should be the most efficient driver for IR diodes.
You can power up your diode with only one 18650 battery that is great for portable builds.
 
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