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FrozenGate by Avery

Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits pens

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Order Placed

Hi DrLava. I just placed an order for one set to 120mA.

Thank You

Clayton
 
Shipping Status Qty Item Price
Not yet shipped 1 millirad - Forum Username

Bump, is it out of stock?
 
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Please PM me, when you ship my paid order, otherwise I have to build one myself. At least PM me with an update.
 
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Don't you think he has a personal life?
Breathe through your nose. You WILL get the driver.
 
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millirad said:
OK, sounds good. I trust your opinion spyder.
Click to expand...

Yep, Andrew may have bad communication, but he will follow through and take care of you!
BTW, I didn't mean to sound rude or arrogant... The same thing happened to me when I first bought from him, but it was worth the wait :)
 
Did I kill my flexdrive?

EDIT: I did not kill it yeaaah!

EDIT2: My rckstr test load seems dead :C

When I was gonna set the pot my head was fucked up so I hooked the driver up to 2x 3.7V batteries in series and got 7.4V I guess. Did I kill the driver? I measure voltage across test load and get 0.
I'm gonna try it with my LD and see if it still works, if I'm lucky I just fucked up the lest load when I soldered it.
 
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With 7.4V, there's a good chance you killed the FD. There isn't really much that can go wrong with the test load.
 
dr-ebert said:
With 7.4V, there's a good chance you killed the FD. There isn't really much that can go wrong with the test load.
Click to expand...

Actually I did not kill my flexdrive. But my test load seems dead, at least I don't get any numbers when I measure voltage.
 
Did you hook it up right? A diode is a one-way component. If one burned out (not likely) then it won't work either way
 
SO I got my flex drive today and soldered leads to it, and set it to the correct range. However, upon closer inspection I noticed I lost the cap near the LD positive output, like some others have. :( :banghead: My guess is that the board heated up some and desoldered that component. Now what? I am planning to use a LOC red diode, so I assume from what I have read that the cap needs to be there. Could I solder on a new one? If that is the case, what value does it need to be? I would rather not have to buy another one of these. I might try using a standard size cap, not SMT, but then I need the value again. Thanks for the help!
 
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