sk8er4514 said:
[quote author=mmykle link=1214285108/40#49 date=1217042518]I'm not sure if the FusionDrives will work. Here is the specs for it:
BluRay 12mA to 80mA, Red 80mA to 350mA.
Note that this is a Low DropOut (LDO) regulator, and has a theoretical 1V drop Vin to Vout. So you could (theoretically) run a BluRay diode on only 5.5V input, or a red on 3.5. That said, it can also cope with voltages up to 13V so you can run it off pretty much anything.
I'm new to using flashlights as housing but the CR123 battery is only 3 volts right? This would make the Fusion drive pointless unless I stuck it in an MXDL (that does use two cr123's right?) which i have none of, I only have two Dorcy Jr. So am I screwed unless I get the flexdrive? I know its a really good deal for what it does, but it still seems like a lot to spend on a driver. Would the fusiondrive be ok to use on a Stontech red diode?
Also, those cool Microdrives don't seem like they would work either. If I'm not mistaken the 405nm diodes take more voltage, at least I think they do. It would be nice if there was a chart that showed all of the current popular diodes and what voltage and current they need. It would make it easier to know what drivers to use.
Heh, one last thing... what does the test load do that is offered on the microdriver page? It seems to help you determine what current the driver is ajusted to, is this correct?
you are correct, for the Dorcy, really the only option would be a flexdrive, unless you know how to make your own boost driver! (which you don't, trust me).
the Fusion or Micro driver would not work with 3V that one CR123 puts out. Yes the Dorcy uses 1 CR123 3V battery. MXDL uses two of them, so gives 6V. the micro driver would require about 7.5V, so a 9V battery is the best bet to use with the micro driver / PHR803T. you could try to get some 3.6V rechargeable CR123 from DX but would have to wait a month.... and it might not even work with 7.2V anyways.
plus if you use a MXDL, you have to figure out a way to hold the [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9]Aixiz module[/link] in place. I've used hot glue before but it looks horrible. Jayrobs heat sinks are really the best way to do it, but then you're spending ~$25 anyways that would have gone to the cost of the DrLava flexdrive.
the fusion drive might work for a 16x red diode, you could just ask SenKat, he'll help you out.[/quote]
Do not forget the obvious option, the reason the Dorcy Jr is such a popular host: The "stock" Dorcy-driver circuit
is a booster-driver. This driver-alone will drive a Senkat 16x diode, or an "long-die open-can" at up to 350mA with a 3v battery, at over 500mA with a 3.7v battery, you can add resistors to limit the current lower. You can run a PS3 diode with it, and a PHR-803t diode up to 60-70mA, (it cannot boost the voltage high enough to deliver more than this to the diode, but you would ahve a 40mW 405nM pointer that would last forever). I have also read about using the stock-board to drive a IR-diode. This driver is not a "constant-current" driver though, which is why it is so versatile, but this is not usually a problem with most builds. So you can "light" anything, (diode-wise), with what you have right now, if you want to upgrade later, the Flex-drive is a great driver.
The heat-sinks you bought are specifically designed to support the original modification of the Dorcy Jr, made popular by Kenom's video and thread:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1181635652 , and I made another thread about using Kenom's technique except with a PS3 diode from a kess-4000 sled, (this was before the 803 became popular):
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1207864937/0#0 So if you would rather save money for awhile, just go with what you have, the addiction will set-in from there.
I hope this helps,
DH
