Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

HOW TO: 100+mW 405nm w/ 803T Dorcy Jr Laser

I WOULD get one from dark horse... but I cant see like an order page or anything similar to where I got the flexdrive.. lol im still a noob to this website after all.
 





laserman22 said:
I WOULD get one from dark horse... but I cant see like an order page or anything similar to where I got the flexdrive.. lol im still a noob to this website after all.
Click to expand...

I've spoken with him recently and he is working on an order page. Should be ready soon. In the mean time you can just PM him if you want one.

We might be doing some cross advertising or something to that effect soon as well :)
 
lol I also would have PM'd him earlier, but I didnt have enough posts to do PM at that point.

I will wait for my Blue LD to arrive, and then ill ask him for a heatsink.

Currently, the LD is on the way, the aixiz module arrived, and im still waiting on the flexdrive. Have not ordered Dorcy JR yet, or heatsink.
 
laserman22 said:
lol I also would have PM'd him earlier, but I didnt have enough posts to do PM at that point.

I will wait for my Blue LD to arrive, and then ill ask him for a heatsink.

Currently, the LD is on the way, the aixiz module arrived, and im still waiting on the flexdrive. Have not ordered Dorcy JR yet, or heatsink.
Click to expand...

cool. sounds like you're gathering up all the materials needed :)

the flexdrives are in a bit of unavailability at the moment as DrLava is working on a new version of them... I hope he finishes soon because I've already got orders for the 4 that are in the mail on the way to me now. You can also try to use a rkcstr driver but will need at least 7.2V which isn't really easy with the Dorcy Jr's that I buy. I'll probably make a few MXDL blu rays w/ the rkcstr with two of the 3.6V batteries to power it. i'll try to remember to take pics while I do it to create another tutorial like this one.
 
laserman22 said:
I WOULD get one from dark horse... but I cant see like an order page or anything similar to where I got the flexdrive.. lol im still a noob to this website after all.
Click to expand...

The web site should be up by Monday, until then, a PM will indeed set you up ;)
Wecome to LPF! ;D
 
I love the flashlight build do you know of any that are like it?
preferably cheaper I just can't get past the fact it's 25$ for the metal body!
 
scareg said:
I love the flashlight build do you know of any that are like it?
preferably cheaper I just can't get past the fact it's 25$ for the metal body!
Click to expand...
$25 isn't too bad for the flashlight.. considering it comes with a battery too, and is shipped fedex.

but I've also gotten some MXDL flashlights for like $11 from DX, you also have to buy the batteries to use with those, DX sells a 5 pack of CR123's for pretty cheap so order that with it.

then prepare to wait for 1 month before ever seeing it  :-[

and you would need to buy a heat sink to hold the module with / dissipate heat. jayrob makes the only ones which cost $25.... so you really aren't saving much in the end.

if you find a good way use the MXDL w/o a heat sink let me know.

good luck,
Kendall
 
sk8er4514 said:
if you find a good way use the MXDL w/o a heat sink let me know.
good luck,
Kendall
Click to expand...

You could always just leave it as a flashlight. It wouldn't need a heat sink then. ;)

Peace,
dave
 
I noticed one very important step missing here.. (Dont get me wrong, just trying to add some useful info :) )

The Dorcy has a boost driver of its own, and the flexdrive is a boost driver of course. When you remove the LED/electronics from the star, you are still not killing the boost driver from the dorcy:(. If you take the battery half only, insert a battery, switch it on, and test voltage from the case to the inside where the spring touches the + terminal, you'll find ~5v instead of 3v or 3.6v(depending on your battery choice of course).

I found that with my open-can red build(although different @ 480mA :o ), the dual-boost driver setup caused the flexdrive's output to be unstable- not a good thing.

To remove the boost driver in the dorcy, I had to remove the top aluminum ring from the BATTERY half of the flashlight. Press out the innards from the side that touches the positive battery terminal. Inside you will find the boost driver. I removed all electronics from it, and made a connection from the positive battery terminal to the center spot on the driver side, where the spring touches. You will see the "hole" with the pass-thru connection that needs to be bridged.

Sorry for the vague description. I am unable to take pics of my setup, as I learned the correct method of removing the boost driver the hard way. Mine is now held together with epoxy. Hopefully Sk8ter will try and post pics in his tutorial:)
 
Glaserfan said:
I noticed one very important step missing here.. (Dont get me wrong, just trying to add some useful info :) )

The Dorcy has a boost driver of its own, and the flexdrive is a boost driver of course. When you remove the LED/electronics from the star, you are still not killing the boost driver from the dorcy:(. If you take the battery half only, insert a battery, switch it on, and test voltage from the case to the inside where the spring touches the + terminal, you'll find ~5v instead of 3v or 3.6v(depending on your battery choice of course).

I found that with my open-can red build(although different @ 480mA :o ), the dual-boost driver setup caused the flexdrive's output to be unstable- not a good thing.

To remove the boost driver in the dorcy, I had to remove the top aluminum ring from the BATTERY half of the flashlight. Press out the innards from the side that touches the positive battery terminal. Inside you will find the boost driver. I removed all electronics from it, and made a connection from the positive battery terminal to the center spot on the driver side, where the spring touches. You will see the "hole" with the pass-thru connection that needs to be bridged.

Sorry for the vague description. I am unable to take pics of my setup, as I learned the correct method of removing the boost driver the hard way. Mine is now held together with epoxy. Hopefully Sk8ter will try and post pics in his tutorial:)
Click to expand...
I've taken out the boost driver before for the MXDL, but didn't worry about it for this.

On DrLava's thread about the flexdrive is stated "Input voltage range 2.5V to 5.5V"
so I think the ~5V after boost driver is actually OK.

but you are correct that it is not the most efficient way of doing it.

Maybe the next time I make one (probably won't b/c i'm not advertising that I sell them anymore, but I still do per request) I'll take out the boost driver and try putting the flexdrive in the battery part and just run wires to where the boost driver wire's used to go. would probably make it a lot cleaner because you could leave the start shaped piece on and just hook up the diode to where the + and - of the star shaped piece are.

you are welcome to add to this tutorial w/ pics and whatnot if you want. I might if I ever make one again..
 
Glaserfan said:
I noticed one very important step missing here.. (Dont get me wrong, just trying to add some useful info :) )

The Dorcy has a boost driver of its own, and the flexdrive is a boost driver of course. When you remove the LED/electronics from the star, you are still not killing the boost driver from the dorcy:(. If you take the battery half only, insert a battery, switch it on, and test voltage from the case to the inside where the spring touches the + terminal, you'll find ~5v instead of 3v or 3.6v(depending on your battery choice of course).

I found that with my open-can red build(although different @ 480mA :o ), the dual-boost driver setup caused the flexdrive's output to be unstable- not a good thing.

To remove the boost driver in the dorcy, I had to remove the top aluminum ring from the BATTERY half of the flashlight. Press out the innards from the side that touches the positive battery terminal. Inside you will find the boost driver. I removed all electronics from it, and made a connection from the positive battery terminal to the center spot on the driver side, where the spring touches. You will see the "hole" with the pass-thru connection that needs to be bridged.

Sorry for the vague description. I am unable to take pics of my setup, as I learned the correct method of removing the boost driver the hard way. Mine is now held together with epoxy. Hopefully Sk8ter will try and post pics in his tutorial:)
Click to expand...
I have found an easy way to remove the Dorcy-driver is to remove the "head", remove the battery, and replace the battery with a "deep"-socket, like for removing your spark-plugs, where the battery was, if you select the correct-size socket, it will slide freely and still stick out far enough to push on, the driver should just "pop" out damage free. If you do not replace the driver-board with the componets removed, there will be nothing for the positive-end of the battery to contact against. I have done as Glaserfan has done in the past, this works well, but it takes time and results will vary depending on the builder.
[highlight]"Tease-alert":[/highlight] now, if someone were to make a special heatsink for the Dorcy, a person could just gut the Dorcy body and head completely, and slide in a heat-sink/module/Flex-driver assembly that would replace everything but the battery and be finished. Easy to build, easy to work on, very reliable, consistantly professional-looking results and much more material for heat-sinking, now that would be cool. ::) It is on the way!
I have already proto-typed these in a couple of Dorcy's, they work awesome, now I just need to produce a batch in qauntites for sale. Keep an eye out ;)
DH
 
any pics?? :D

sounds like a whole new flashlight if you're only using the battery ?
 
sk8er4514 said:
any pics??  :D

sounds like a whole new flashlight if you're only using the battery ?
Click to expand...
I meant only using the battery, of the original-parts on the inside, you would still use the Dorcy-body and head of course, everything that is aluminum. This would be intended for someone who had maybe already built a Dorcy Jr using a conventional method, but wanted to upgrade to a Flex-drive, it is also easier for a beginner.
I will take some picture tonight and post here.
DH
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top