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FrozenGate by Avery

HOW TO: 100+mW 405nm w/ 803T Dorcy Jr Laser

Glaserfan said:
I noticed one very important step missing here.. (Dont get me wrong, just trying to add some useful info :) )

The Dorcy has a boost driver of its own, and the flexdrive is a boost driver of course. When you remove the LED/electronics from the star, you are still not killing the boost driver from the dorcy:(. If you take the battery half only, insert a battery, switch it on, and test voltage from the case to the inside where the spring touches the + terminal, you'll find ~5v instead of 3v or 3.6v(depending on your battery choice of course).

I found that with my open-can red build(although different @ 480mA :o ), the dual-boost driver setup caused the flexdrive's output to be unstable- not a good thing.

To remove the boost driver in the dorcy, I had to remove the top aluminum ring from the BATTERY half of the flashlight. Press out the innards from the side that touches the positive battery terminal. Inside you will find the boost driver. I removed all electronics from it, and made a connection from the positive battery terminal to the center spot on the driver side, where the spring touches. You will see the "hole" with the pass-thru connection that needs to be bridged.

Sorry for the vague description. I am unable to take pics of my setup, as I learned the correct method of removing the boost driver the hard way. Mine is now held together with epoxy. Hopefully Sk8ter will try and post pics in his tutorial:)
Click to expand...
You beat me to it!
 





Dark_Horse said:
[quote author=sk8er4514 link=1214285108/20#30 date=1216837744]any pics??  :D

sounds like a whole new flashlight if you're only using the battery ?
Click to expand...
I meant only using the battery, of the original-parts on the inside, you would still use the Dorcy-body and head of course, everything that is aluminum. This would be intended for someone who had maybe already built a Dorcy Jr using a conventional method, but wanted to upgrade to a Flex-drive, it is also easier for a beginner.
I will take some picture tonight and post here.
DH
[/quote]

Here are some pictures of the newly developed "Flex-Drive-compatable Dorcy Jr Heat-sink", I will have to come up with a better name. These should be available in the near future. ;)
 

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Dark_horse you are crazy  [smiley=shocked.gif] [smiley=evil.gif]

+1 Rep for the innovation. [smiley=tekst-toppie.gif]
 
those are sweet DarkHorse!

that's cool that you made it to where you can just remove the entire Dorcy driver section of it and just make it completely hollow. took me a second to figure that out.

so the battery + of flexdrive is that spring... does the battery - connect to the case or what?

nice work
 
sk8er4514 said:
those are sweet DarkHorse!

that's cool that you made it to where you can just remove the entire Dorcy driver section of it and just make it completely hollow. took me a second to figure that out.

so the battery + of flexdrive is that spring... does the battery - connect to the case or what?

nice work
Click to expand...

Correct, the spring is the + side of the Flex-drive for the battery side, nothing needs to be connected to the - side of the flex-drive, as long as the "case-pin" of the 803 diode is connected to the neg-pin of the diode, and these pins are connected to the - side of the flex-drive on the diode-side, and the heat-sink is grounded to the body. This also leaves the little hole for connecting the - side of the flex-drive, on the battery-side to connect a jumper to when you are setting the current with the heat-sink out of the Dorcy-head, very handy. So using this heat-sink-module, a person would only need to make 3-solder connections, with no wires. ;)
Once all of your parts are collected, I can build one of these in about 20-minutes, including testing.
DH
 
aww man, too bad I didn't read this like an hour ago... I just bought some of Dark Horse's heat sinks. This always seems to happen, lol. ::)

EDIT: I forgot to ask what current you would want to run the diodes at. The $20 driver is a lot for a driver, I could buy it, but it just seems too much for a driver. So I thought I could make my own using the Fusion drives... that still haven't come :(
 
I assume you're talking about a PHR803T diode, and I think 120mA is good, should give you anywhere from 70-110mW output == very bright visible beam & can light matches + long lasting.

good luck on ever getting some fusion drives... you'd be better off making your own LM317 DDL driver... DrLava is still working on his new gen of flexdrives... so that's not really an option right now anyways.
 
mmykle said:
aww man, too bad I didn't read this like an hour ago... I just bought some of Dark Horse's heat sinks. This always seems to happen, lol. ::)

EDIT: I forgot to ask what current you would want to run the diodes at. The $20 driver is a lot for a driver, I could buy it, but it just seems too much for a driver. So I thought I could make my own using the Fusion drives... that still haven't come  :(
Click to expand...

Thanks for the order, your 'sinks will be on thier way as soon as the PO opens. As far as the "Flex-drives" go, Dr Lava has said they will be ready by the end of next week, not too long. I know I am waiting on pins and needles for some also, I have several builds just waiting for the driver. The stock-Dorcy circuit will only power the PHR-803t-diode to about 60mA, it doesn't run out of amperage, it just cannot boost the voltage high enough to use any more current. But you could run it off of the stock circuit at this lower-power until you get another driver. Just a thought ;)
BTW, the "Flex-drives" are worth it, IMHO. ;)
DH
 
I was up late last night on lpf, about 1am my time. Somewhere I read about using artic silver to help transfer heat to the heatsink or something but I can't remember where I read that. Do you really need to do that? If so, is this the stuff you would use: http://shop1.frys.com/{+-ep4cj97bZh...TOL7IMy3g**.node1?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

EDIT: Oh yea, can you get those static protection bracelets at radio shack? I know they're important but I never got one and I really need one.
 
mmykle said:
I was up late last night on lpf, about 1am my time. Somewhere I read about using artic silver to help transfer heat to the heatsink or something but I can't remember where I read that. Do you really need to do that? If so, is this the stuff you would use: http://shop1.frys.com/{+-ep4cj97bZh...TOL7IMy3g**.node1?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

EDIT: Oh yea, can you get those static protection bracelets at radio shack? I know they're important but I never got one and I really need one.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is the stuff, you can buy it at Radio Shack as well, if you don't want to order it. A little goes a long ways, buy the smallest tube you can, you will likley never run out. This thermal compound is pretty effective when lightly coating the base of the diode just prior to pressing it into the module. do not put so much on that it gets on you diode window or something, I apply with a toothpick. Also keep in mind that this stuff is conductive of electricty also, so do not let it short anything else. I have mentioned to some that you may also apply this to the outside of the module, prior to sliding it into the heat-sink. This will allow a much better transfer of heat from the module to the heat-sink, however, if you plan on getting back into the laser soon, it can get a little messy, and I usually do not do this anymore.
The anti-static wrist strap is a good idea, and Radio-shack does sell them for about $10, DX sells them for like $3, I never use mine, it just gets in the way too much. I "ground" myself occaisionally to my computer-case, and so far I have been lucky, even with the more sensitve Kess-400 diodes. Maybe someone should start a poll to find out how many people actully use a wrist-strap while building. I guess it is up to you.
Happy building. ;)
DH
 
I was going to order parts now but since the new flexdrives are coming soon and Dh's heatsink is not too far off, a little more wait shouldnt hurt
 
el-taco said:
I was going to order parts now but since the new flexdrives are coming soon and Dh's heatsink is not too far off, a little more wait shouldnt hurt
Click to expand...
good thinking. hopefully the new flexdrives will be just as nice as the old ones :)

and by the way, I now sell the [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=50]PHR803T diodes[/link] & [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=51]diodes in modules[/link] if anyone is curious.

also sell [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=48]20x long open can diodes[/link] & [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=49]diodes in modules[/link]

edit: and you will probably want to go ahead and order the flexdrives. I've already purchased 7 8-) so get in line!
 
I already have a diode in a module :)

But if I order now, will I be getting a new gen flexdrive?
 
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