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FrozenGate by Avery

GGW-H20L (6X) vs. SF-AW210 (6X)

Haha cool glad i could help john. i am building a blu-ray pen laser with one of those SF-AW210, it was only $30.

Thank you for the help
Mitch
 





Flaminpyro said:
Yes it's best to get your sled from a know good source as some people on this forum have been known to swap out laser diodes in sleds.
Click to expand...

I usually get mine from Kendall@HighTechDealz and I've gotten one from John Lawson, all except the first one I got from Kendall is still working great. That was my bad on the first one dyin though, damn butterfingers me droppin it. :crackup:

Those are two people who won't jerk you around though, trustworthy indeed. :beer:
 
Dave;

The SF designation on the SF-AW210 sled denotes Sanyo as the manufacturer.
(according to several sled distributors)

I am fairly certain that the GGW BR diode is a Sharp 250mw.

One clue from Dave:
"This is significantly better than the "flat, plastic" red diode that is in the LG model."
Another statement from Sharp:
"The company uses a frame package with a thickness of only 1.8mm for red laser diodes."

LarryDFW
 
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hey guys, is there anything else i got to know before starting a 6x build (SF 6x)? i have already made PHR laser.. now want a bit more power!! (dw i got glasses! :cool:)

The pin outs are the same as PHR right? im thinking of running mine at 175-180ma.. im putting it into a MXDL host with jayrob V2 heat sink.. any ideas on duty cycles? and expeted output (acrylic lens)?? i also read that the acrylic lens can melt.. is this true.. if so would the Aixiz glass lens work.. I don't want to spend to much money on the lens at this time.. just need to know before my acrylic melts on me..

Lastly im using a Rkcstr driver.. is it true that if the voltage drops below a certain level, it could damage LDor driver? its a V3.. i have read these "myths" or "rumours" all over the forum.. just need some confimation. the MXDL host takes 3 x 3.6v batteries.. ~12.5v.

any info is appreciated! -Adrian
 
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The pinout is the same as the PHR

With your proposed build the duty cycle should not be much of a problem. Don't try to run it like a labby, but don't worry much about it

After acrylic the output could be anywhere from 150mW to 190mW.

The acrylic lens doesn't "melt." It ablates. Above 150mW the photons hitting the lens can "wear away" the acrylic. At this output just keep another acrylic on hand. They are only a few dollars. You won't be replacing them very often.

The voltage dropping below the minimum on the Rkcst is generally noticeable long before any problems would result (if ever). When you see your laser not as bright or not burning as fast, replace the batteries. There is actually more danger to the 10440's from running them too low. 10440's have no protection circuit so you could drain them completely and short out the battery.

The Rkcst has a component on it that is rated at 12V. Many people are running a Rkcstr with three 10440's (12.6V fully charged), but you are taking a chance that YOUR driver won't take it. The PUBLISHED limit is 12V.

Peace,
dave
 
bobhaha said:
hey guys, is there anything else i got to know before starting a 6x build (SF 6x)? i have already made PHR laser.. now want a bit more power!! (dw i got glasses! :cool:)

The pin outs are the same as PHR right? im thinking of running mine at 175-180ma.. im putting it into a MXDL host with jayrob V2 heat sink.. any ideas on duty cycles? and expeted output (acrylic lens)?? i also read that the acrylic lens can melt.. is this true.. if so would the Aixiz glass lens work.. I don't want to spend to much money on the lens at this time.. just need to know before my acrylic melts on me..

Lastly im using a Rkcstr driver.. is it true that if the voltage drops below a certain level, it could damage LDor driver? its a V3.. i have read these "myths" or "rumours" all over the forum.. just need some confimation. the MXDL host takes 3 x 3.6v batteries.. ~12.5v.

any info is appreciated! -Adrian
Click to expand...


That's exactly what my setup is except mines @ 195 mA and I'm using two rcr123's putting ot around 8.4 V. Mines running just great, so yours should be fine with what your are going to use. The extra V on yours just means the voltage shouldn't drop out or anything. Duty cycle for me is around 2 min. on and the same time off.
 
ok cool thanks all for the great info!! so do you recommend not running it over 12v? or if i do run at ~12.5v theres a small risk or damage? also do you know of and AAA sized protected batteries? i know the 10440 are the most common.. but they are not protected.. and i want to be 100% sure i dont destroy this laser!

thanks for the info -Adrian
 
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You should be ok at 12.5 v. I think the rkcstr driver can take up to 15v but thats way more than needed for any known blu-ray diode available right now. The driver has some protection on board but you may want to get some protected batteries just in case. I haven't personally went very high in voltage on any of my builds. I mainly just give enough for the driver and diode to work but I don't run them long either so it's not necessary for me to have the extra voltage.

To sum it up, I think you're headed down the right road :beer:
 
bobhaha said:
ok cool thanks all for the great info!! so do you recommend not running it over 12v? or if i do run at ~12.5v theres a small risk or damage? also do you know of and AAA sized protected batteries? i know the 10440 are the most common.. but they are not protected.. and i want to be 100% sure i dont destroy this laser!
thanks for the info -Adrian
Click to expand...

There are no commercially produced protected, 3.7V AAA sized batteries.

You already have my info about the Rkcstr and voltage from above.

You can also get the very same info from Rkcstr's manual for his driver.

Peace,
dave
 
ok cheers! I think it should be just fine as long as i keep checking up on the batteries
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
Is a GGW that much better than the SF? The SF is only $30 at O-Like, and their chart says it didn't die until 375mA. See it here:

http://www.o-like.com/b2b_cpinfo.asp?id=1053
Click to expand...

i have them at modwerx for 28.99$+shipping and you can also get some other stuff if needed to help save on shipping :)

the ggw is a little bit more "robust" but for the price difference you cant go wrong with an sf diode!
 
Hate to say it, but O-Like has you beat on cost+S&H...however, it's only by 40 cents, AND it would arrive from you a lot faster, and I'd rather not spend my money over-seas, so you're definitely the person I'll go to if I ever get $30 to blow on a 6x BR diode, but now we're off-topic.

With a relatively short duty cycle, can a 6x diode handle 300mA?
 
Bearded_Galaxy said:
Hate to say it, but O-Like has you beat on cost+S&H...however, it's only by 40 cents, AND it would arrive from you a lot faster, and I'd rather not spend my money over-seas, so you're definitely the person I'll go to if I ever get $30 to blow on a 6x BR diode, but now we're off-topic.

With a relatively short duty cycle, can a 6x diode handle 300mA?
Click to expand...

No.

Treat it more gently than a GGW. Keep it at less than 190mA.

Peace,
dave
 
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