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FrozenGate by Avery
GB: CNC'd Host + Driver for 40 Watt 460-465nm Laser Array
- Thread starter rhd
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The challenge may be avoid to blind a martian while pointing to Plutos LOL. :na:
Jokes apart, I thing that the only works will be to screw the four screws, solder the diodes to the drivers, the drivers to the switch and the switch to the battery.
And apply an heatsink over the drivers.
I do not see other troubles here ...
By the way: what kind of battery will be used? A Lipo cell like the ones used for the drones? LiPo cells 2S = 7.4V?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZIPPY-5000M...377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58aed3d579
Jokes apart, I thing that the only works will be to screw the four screws, solder the diodes to the drivers, the drivers to the switch and the switch to the battery.
And apply an heatsink over the drivers.
I do not see other troubles here ...
By the way: what kind of battery will be used? A Lipo cell like the ones used for the drones? LiPo cells 2S = 7.4V?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZIPPY-5000M...377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58aed3d579
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I wish to buy an array this month, but first I need to be sure if this project will be continued.
It is a waste of money to buy a so expensive device without a minimum hope to see the project ended in a reasonable time ...
(I had a very bad experience in the past with another project ...)
It is a waste of money to buy a so expensive device without a minimum hope to see the project ended in a reasonable time ...
(I had a very bad experience in the past with another project ...)
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rhd
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It has been a while. Who is still in? The key here is testing the driver, and I'm still waiting on the PCBs.
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I'm still in !!
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I have been eye balling these for a while now, what we need is a distance adjustable lens plate that holds 8 additional lenses or better yet I really would like to gut one from a machine and use the factory optical train or parts of it, like the knife edge setup in the old A series units that put 24 diodes through a lens to get them all through the phosphor wheel stripe.
These when used in commercial units will have some kind of method of shooting it all through the phosphor wheel, probably much the same or maybe not ?
From that point where they all converge at about a 7-9mm spot to shoot through the phosphor wheel I will take it from there.
These when used in commercial units will have some kind of method of shooting it all through the phosphor wheel, probably much the same or maybe not ?
From that point where they all converge at about a 7-9mm spot to shoot through the phosphor wheel I will take it from there.
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joeybab3
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I want to make one if these ao badly 
i may have to save up...
i may have to save up...- Joined
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Hi RHD,
I like this design of your host+drivers. Even if I do not have any of these 8LD banks, maybe it is the future of LD array technology and they will be cheaper in future.
I would pay 270USD for one just to have if the GB is still actual.
3 questions though:
Will it accept all kind of different Nichia banks currently sold on ebay with dimentions 60x22x18mm if I am right (NUBM05T, NUBM06, NUBM07E and what could replace them in the future)?
Could you include (if geometry allows) 2 or 3 pin LD sockets in order not to abuse LD legs by soldering and make banks exchangeable?
Are there any "reasonably priced" LPM to buy with thermal element capable to mesure that output (50-100W limit to be sure).
Thank you.
I like this design of your host+drivers. Even if I do not have any of these 8LD banks, maybe it is the future of LD array technology and they will be cheaper in future.
I would pay 270USD for one just to have if the GB is still actual.
3 questions though:
Will it accept all kind of different Nichia banks currently sold on ebay with dimentions 60x22x18mm if I am right (NUBM05T, NUBM06, NUBM07E and what could replace them in the future)?
Could you include (if geometry allows) 2 or 3 pin LD sockets in order not to abuse LD legs by soldering and make banks exchangeable?
Are there any "reasonably priced" LPM to buy with thermal element capable to mesure that output (50-100W limit to be sure).
Thank you.
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Nichia NUBM06 445nm 32W High Power Multi LD Bank Blue Laser Diode Array | eBay
However the Gball lens are not focusable, it may degrade the gain medium to remove them, and they are not really practical to refocus as one unit.
It will make a super bright blue spotlight, but the beams are not axis corrected, they are designed as short range light engines to pump phosphor to make green light, and there is a lot of heat to manage.
However the Gball lens are not focusable, it may degrade the gain medium to remove them, and they are not really practical to refocus as one unit.
It will make a super bright blue spotlight, but the beams are not axis corrected, they are designed as short range light engines to pump phosphor to make green light, and there is a lot of heat to manage.
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Recently I have checked one NUBM07E LD from DTR with ball lens not removed and the spot at 5-10 meters looks like a line similar to what I get from NUBM44 with G-2 focused to infinity at that distance. Or maybe this line spot is a little shorter and wider, but focus of this ball lens was not at all bad (maybe it is only the case with these LDs).
I suggest maybe a crazy idea - to attach 8 mirrors (e.g. two micro knife edge arrays from Lasertack if dimentions would allow to both sides of the bank) and obtain 2 parallel knife-edged beams at 10mm each from other. At some distance they will diverge and merge anyway. Also each beam could be impoved with a pair of cylindricals.
However to allow doing this well all LDs in bank have to be oriented at same polarisation (I hope they are), but I never had such a bank and I am not sure if this orientation is the right one for knife-edging.
Anyway, the mirrors could also be oriented to focus all beams at one spot without huge lens in styropyro's video.
I suggest maybe a crazy idea - to attach 8 mirrors (e.g. two micro knife edge arrays from Lasertack if dimentions would allow to both sides of the bank) and obtain 2 parallel knife-edged beams at 10mm each from other. At some distance they will diverge and merge anyway. Also each beam could be impoved with a pair of cylindricals.
However to allow doing this well all LDs in bank have to be oriented at same polarisation (I hope they are), but I never had such a bank and I am not sure if this orientation is the right one for knife-edging.
Anyway, the mirrors could also be oriented to focus all beams at one spot without huge lens in styropyro's video.
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I also don't know how they are orientated but I bet its so they can strike a knife edge array horizontally, also those blocks are made to stack.
But what is a tall skinny line becomes a wide line only slightly taller.
The rapidly diverging axis is the narrow part of the point blank rectangle.
This creates problems.
I have used that to make them overlap easily in a triple by cheating the lens body thread play and it is a sloppy way to do it but it works for 5-25 foot wood burning art.
These are NDB7875's NUBM44's would overlap easily, but you would be surprised how much by product heat these make driven as hard as we do.
I hade an idea to correct the beams and mount the corrected laser on a 2.5 inch wide 36 inch long 1/4 inch thick aluminum slat with a raised galvo mirror at the other end, then 6 or 8 could be arranged in a tube/cannon with a processor and rangefinder to converge all the beams at the desired distance.
But what is a tall skinny line becomes a wide line only slightly taller.
The rapidly diverging axis is the narrow part of the point blank rectangle.
This creates problems.
I have used that to make them overlap easily in a triple by cheating the lens body thread play and it is a sloppy way to do it but it works for 5-25 foot wood burning art.
These are NDB7875's NUBM44's would overlap easily, but you would be surprised how much by product heat these make driven as hard as we do.
I hade an idea to correct the beams and mount the corrected laser on a 2.5 inch wide 36 inch long 1/4 inch thick aluminum slat with a raised galvo mirror at the other end, then 6 or 8 could be arranged in a tube/cannon with a processor and rangefinder to converge all the beams at the desired distance.
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O, yes! Death Star style!
Most probably this is the only way to combine several beams - not trying to combine into one at full path, but converging at desired distance.
I tried to do such a thing 8 years ago when only 808nm IR diodes were available for reasonable price, but found no way to perfectly adjust them into 1 point without access to super presise machinery. I attached 8 Aluminium minitorches with 500 mW LDs inside to a maglite central body, but then lost interest.
I am happy that today you can do a much stronger one with only 3 blue LDs.
I doubt that servomotors are precise enough for what you want. If yes, then you could also use them to steer mirrors which could make the system more compact.
May I ask if the topic starter RHD is following this thread? His last message here dates July 2015.
Most probably this is the only way to combine several beams - not trying to combine into one at full path, but converging at desired distance.
I tried to do such a thing 8 years ago when only 808nm IR diodes were available for reasonable price, but found no way to perfectly adjust them into 1 point without access to super presise machinery. I attached 8 Aluminium minitorches with 500 mW LDs inside to a maglite central body, but then lost interest.
I am happy that today you can do a much stronger one with only 3 blue LDs.
I doubt that servomotors are precise enough for what you want. If yes, then you could also use them to steer mirrors which could make the system more compact.
May I ask if the topic starter RHD is following this thread? His last message here dates July 2015.
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6 corrected 44's one each at one end of a 2.5 to 3 inch wide 36 inch long 1/4 inch thick aluminum slats with a mirrored galvo at the other end on an elevation block controlled by a raspberry or generic processor and employing a rangefinder to converge 6 beams at the ranged distance, up/down left/right adjustments for run out at the galvo end and laser end, as well as tilt angle on the laser end, alignment must be adjustable for run out.
Good quality galvos would be accurate enough to converge 6 or 8 corrected beams out to 50 feet, the cannon would need the size and surface area to dissipate the heat and have a good duty cycle.
The reason to elevate the galvo/mirror is so it wont hit the laser housing on longer distance convergences. 8 would be better and allow more headroom. Along with being fun this would look really cool with the larger user end spacing, 8 beams from a device about 8 inches in diameter would look epic all running out to a cluster point.
Also the longer the slats the more accurate the galvo can be as the ratio of the final distance divided by the length of the slat will be better for a 36 inch slat vs a 18 inch slat.
Or you could shrink it down and use 405's or even 520's, just matters how much money you have to spend.
Good quality galvos would be accurate enough to converge 6 or 8 corrected beams out to 50 feet, the cannon would need the size and surface area to dissipate the heat and have a good duty cycle.
The reason to elevate the galvo/mirror is so it wont hit the laser housing on longer distance convergences. 8 would be better and allow more headroom. Along with being fun this would look really cool with the larger user end spacing, 8 beams from a device about 8 inches in diameter would look epic all running out to a cluster point.
Also the longer the slats the more accurate the galvo can be as the ratio of the final distance divided by the length of the slat will be better for a 36 inch slat vs a 18 inch slat.
Or you could shrink it down and use 405's or even 520's, just matters how much money you have to spend.
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This is actually a very good idea! The rangefinder would have to be laser based and quite precise, though.
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Hi Red Cowboy,
In your 3 LD torch do you use 3 separate drivers or one high voltage constant current driver with LDs in series.
In tech sheet of 8 LD bank stands that it has to be driven at 36V or so, it would mean all 8 LDs are supposed to be connected in series in a projector?
Not like styropyro did and rhd is planning to do.
However 8 separate drivers must be safer.
In your 3 LD torch do you use 3 separate drivers or one high voltage constant current driver with LDs in series.
In tech sheet of 8 LD bank stands that it has to be driven at 36V or so, it would mean all 8 LDs are supposed to be connected in series in a projector?
Not like styropyro did and rhd is planning to do.
However 8 separate drivers must be safer.
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Ok, In the projector they are not pushed as hard as we push them and as they wear down to half brightness at 20,000 hours the projector can up the power, but running close to the fold back it's safer to power each diode independently so if 1 is weak or a slightly lower resistance it wont draw too much power.
Also it looks like they were running series parallel in one I saw recently, look at the wiring to this block.
Do you see how the 32 diodes are stacked 16 and 16, do you think there is a giant cube in there, see the 16 bottom and 16 to the right feeding the chunk in the center?
Like it has a big beam combining cube in there.
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Each 7875 diode has it's own 2.4A X-drive, the inputs are just parallel using the tail switch, I have tested the mx-900 switches and they hold up under a 52 watt load just fine, that's 2 x 26650 E-fest IMR 4200Mah into a 1 ohm load 8V at 6.5 amps watched on a quality inductive meter, the slide focus Flash lights I was using kept burning out tail cap switches even with the 44 and 07E.
Funny the E-fest charged to 4.15 tested into a 1 ohm load hold 4V at 4.0 amps, I must be getting some wire resistance or my batteries are getting beat up, they have only been cycled 50 times or less.
Edit: Just tested a single E-fest at 4.15 and it only held 3.6a, they held 4.0a new into 1 ohm. Everything wears out huh?
Also it looks like they were running series parallel in one I saw recently, look at the wiring to this block.
Do you see how the 32 diodes are stacked 16 and 16, do you think there is a giant cube in there, see the 16 bottom and 16 to the right feeding the chunk in the center?
Like it has a big beam combining cube in there.
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Each 7875 diode has it's own 2.4A X-drive, the inputs are just parallel using the tail switch, I have tested the mx-900 switches and they hold up under a 52 watt load just fine, that's 2 x 26650 E-fest IMR 4200Mah into a 1 ohm load 8V at 6.5 amps watched on a quality inductive meter, the slide focus Flash lights I was using kept burning out tail cap switches even with the 44 and 07E.
Funny the E-fest charged to 4.15 tested into a 1 ohm load hold 4V at 4.0 amps, I must be getting some wire resistance or my batteries are getting beat up, they have only been cycled 50 times or less.
Edit: Just tested a single E-fest at 4.15 and it only held 3.6a, they held 4.0a new into 1 ohm. Everything wears out huh?
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