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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: X-Drive V6 3A Buck Driver "Sale and Info"

Pretty happy with these drivers... very well done! I would love to see a pot. in there though.
 





kambotwister@ Jerry said it perfect.:) Although i test every driver before shipped on a little Custom Jig i made up even the ones clif sells I test every one before i ship them out to him, You should always use a test load Prior to connect your diode and short the leads to discharge the Caps like Jerry said.:beer:



jander6442 said:
Pretty happy with these drivers... very well done! I would love to see a pot. in there though.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I do Have a Version with a Pot.:)

Here:
http://s944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/Laseerer/A A New/?action=view&current=2bad8d22.jpg

http://s944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/Laseerer/A A New/?action=view&current=78340132.jpg

However it is still in the works and not anywhere near finished for resale. So i would not look forward to seeing this for at least another 4 months.
 
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For now the X-Drive V6 Fixed is what i will have available for some time.:)

Ill do my best to finsih the other project.:beer:
 
Hey All,

Just want to let you know that boards have arrived.:D

Everyone that has been waiting patiently will be getting a Free X-Blank 16.8mm board.:) They are perfect for C6 like Pills Or any host pill that size.


Here is what the X-Blank Boards look Like:


This is the Bottom side where you would solder to the Pill for your GND "-" input and you will have your center POSITIVE "+" Contact pad.
3e626483.jpg



Here is the Top side where you would solder your driver leads to. It is Clearly Marked which is "+" and "-".
494bc614.jpg


There is 2 Positive Pads because in some Hosts there is little room to mount your driver and some members mount it on the blank boards. I put a + contact pad off to the side so if you have to mount your driver to the blank board there wont be a wire sticking up the middle to get in the way.

I will also Have These available for sale and give them a proper introduction soon. As well as have more sizes.



and the X-Drive Boards........
04252c2a.jpg


Cajunlasers.com will be stocking all popular currants shortly + my full X-Line.:beer:
THey do have 1.8A in stock...
http://www.cajunlasers.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4&zenid=dgb2frku543qmtpiskjvcv1oo7

DTR will also be stocking these.:beer:


Thanks.:)
 
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Awesome! Can't wait to get mine! :wave:

Once DTR and Cajun lasers stock them will you stop selling them?
 
I got my drivers in the mail today, and one of the new X-blanks!

I tried it out with a C6 pill and it fits really well :) I really like the idea of it too, it will make it very easy to use a regular driver in a pill so that you don't have to get a round driver for hosts that utilize a pill :D
 
lazeerer said:
Thats a Good Question.


Looking for some FeedBack here Guys.:) What currant would you guys like to see available.:beer:
Click to expand...

First, let me add my testimonial. I have one of these in an RHD build that has survived me inserting batteries backwards (something I invariably do at some point or another) and it runs smooth as butter!

As to the current (or currant if you prefer jelly! ;) ) choices,

Here is some of my logic...

You have LPC-826 and LPC836 which I assume this driver can handle? I believe you yourself have said 510mA is a very good number for the 826. I don't see much action on the 836's, I don't think they are really a factor.

With the Mitsubishi 635/638's you have the 300 and 500. Not sure what people are running the 300's at, but I have my 500 at 1,100mA I think, and I think that is conservative so maybe 1,100mA, 1,400mA and 1,600mA?

Also you have the 12x blurays for now... Lot's of risk aversion variation here. I know some folks who think 600mA is reasonable. For me this is an expensive diode and I want it bright, but alive for a little while. I tend to shoot for just over 500mA so the 510mA is a good one again. I'd also like 525mA as well. I'd say a 550mA and 575mA might be good for those who are adventurous.

Then the 445's... How high do you wanna go? I know there are still some A140's out there, but I don't dabble in such tomfoolery! ;)

Here I would think that 1.6A is your low end with 1.75A, 1.9A and 2.0A all being useful. Then after that, I would assume every 100mA is pretty useful.

Any thoughts? Any stupid mistakes in my reasoning or any huge gaps I missed?
 
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Nice sum up. I would say Mitsubishi 635 are 638nm wavelength. The specs said so. Even DTR sells sells them as 638nm. The 500mW version don't die on 2A-2.1A. I have tried this by accident. :)
But I wouldn't would push it beyond 4x AMC7135 which is 1.4A current.

I would add the 9mm 445nm diodes. They are different from the 5.6mm version. These are the top diodes right. Pushing it to 2.1A is fine.
 
I very much enjoyed working with both Clif and Lazeerer on my first big laser build. I got all the parts from Cajun Lasers, including the x-drive by Lazeerer (1.8A), the M140 445nm diode, and the Elite host. I really love this little laser, as it packs a big punch. The build was fairly easy and straight forward, and both Clif and Lazeerer were very helpful in the process.

My next build will be a Maglite 2D (from Jayrob) with an x-drive set to 2A by Lazeerer, and a 9mm 445nm diode from DTR, with an estimated output of 2.5W!

I want to take some pics when I have more time, however here is at least one obligatory beam shot!
:yh:
photo4.jpg
 
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