FS: White Fusion Laser Mixing Kit

[sightfx]

Price Reduction time!!!


I'm constantly working to make this kit perform better and cost less. I recently worked out a method of opening the red and violet input apertures.

This allows more room for adjustment without masking the laser beams which results in power loss. In order to take advantage of this change I had to do away with the nut and hollow bolt setup. They were cool looking but as you can see the hole doesn't leave much room for adjusting compared to the open aperture.

Those hollow bolts took more time and cost more money than the new method of fastening the mounting plates to the sled.

I also us an end mill to deepen the place here the mirror is to be glued in order to give more room for error as far as the glue rising up the mirror on you. Because of this milling the PBS cube is also more open allowing for more light to exit without being masked.

Cheers :beer:

Ryan

 

[pullbangdead]

Sweet.

I'm looking at my taxes now trying to figure out when I can get this badboy.

 

[sightfx]

I will be putting together a bone yard auction soon so if cosmetic defects are not an issue for you the kit can be even cheaper.

I put my nephew to work and he messed up on some things like putting the set screw holes on the wrong side of the heat sink. Not centering them well.... In his defense he did do a good job on several but now I have a bone yard to auction off at a discount.


Thanks,

Ryan

 

[ZRTMWA]

Any idea on what the price will be for the bone yarders? And the issues are soley cosmetic? Do you have an estimate on the size of the turning mirror that needs to be aligned? Thanks.

How old is your nephew by the way? I would love to get one of these for Christmas from my unlce

 

[sightfx]

See for yourself .

http://laserpointerforums.com/f46/white-fusion-bone-yard-auction-47762.html#post648400


I just put it up.


My nephew is 20. He is a handy man / kid so that sort of work slows down in the winter up here. Thought I would pay him to do some machining... It was my mistake starting him off on something like drilling and tapping the heat sinks. It's actually quite easy to make a mistake and machining is allot more unforgiving than the work he is used too. In any case the issues are all cosmetic and the kits that are made from them will function just as well as the clean kits here.

Actually the extra holes are a feature... Ya that's it... they promote the chimney effect for better heat transfer .

Cheers :beer:

Thanks,

Ryan

 

[testarossa]

I love the color of this one.. Pretty amazing..:wave:

 

[sightfx]

Yea it really is a nice color. With the FML Extension driver on program #12 it will sweep through a 256 bit color pallet and you can stop it on any color you like. Turquoise is one of my favorites.

 

[sightfx]

I added this up top and I thought I would add it here for those who are monitoring new posts. I'm liking this "Chroma" program by tocket at photonlexicon.com.

I finally got Chroma to work on my PC This is a great program to figure out what powers to use when blending lasers. Here are some graphs I have made based on the commonly available Blu-Ray diodes. The plot shows a circle on on the color you would get with the wavelength and power of lasers in the field at the upper left of the app. I tweaked the values to get a well balanced white.

6x BRD

8x BRD

12x BRD I believe I made a safe choice for 12x output with a continuous duty cycle.

Anyone know of a Red diode that will last 1000hours pushing out >300mW. Would nee to be a 9mm package or smaller and of course 5.6mm package would be easiest.


Thanks,

Ryan

 

[jaycey]

Looks good but what about the loss's through the optics?

How about a 640nm putting out 250mw thats available

 

[sightfx]

your right I didn't calculate for loss but when I do it doesn't make much difference seeing as though loss is equal for those two colors and the ratio isn't that uneven for those two colors. Bad news is that the ratio goes the other way. I need a 315mW+ of red going in to get 250mW out in order to balance against 400mW of violet going in, 380mW out.

Time for better optics...


Thanks,

Ryan

 

[pullbangdead]

I've seen Kenom with 350mW of red from a long open can in a Kryton host previously.

I believe one of Dave's reds is at a similar, or higher, power as well. How does your heatsinking compare to the heatsinking in a Kryton host? Can't be much worse, especially with a fan blowing through your machined heatsinks.

Also, what lens are you using for a red? Jayrob has some nice lenses that are AR-coated for red to go with his AR-coated for violets, just in case you're not using those already.

 

[sightfx]

Heat Sinking for the lasers are good even in neutral air. The blower is for the driver for the most part. Good point about the lens. That would bring it up to the spec I'm looking for. Thanks PBD.

 

[FireMyLaser]

My RGV is 90% done, it does run. But now I need to get a 30 x 30mm fan for the 80-100mW o-like module. I got a bad one, it needs to be at or below room temperature to get at decent output! After running a minute it has gotten very dim, even though the laser barely has gotten any warmer. It gets allot more stable when air blows on it. This build just keeps resisting!

 

[pseudolobster]

I can't wait to get mine up and running... Still waiting on a green module from DX.... I'm a bit concerned though, I realize now that I bought a 200mW module with the intention that if I want white I can turn it down, or if I want solid green I can turn it back up to 200mW... What I didn't account for is that if I turn it down it may not laze at 60-80mW or whatever I need for white... I may have to use some kind of convoluted PWM setup to dim the green :-\

Either way, I've been working on the enclosure, and if I can fit everything in there it's going to be pretty sweet... I'm looking into getting a bigass LiPo, with a built-in charger, and a PIC microcontroller monitoring the voltage of the battery so I don't drain it past threshold.. Then down the line, I can write something for the PIC to control the colors like FML's driver does. I'm building my enclosure out of an old soldering iron stand, I already have a fan setup, switches, buttons, and LED's, I've already cut acrylic for the lid and drilled holes for the exhaust air... It's so close I can taste it.

 

[ZRTMWA]

I can't wait to get mine up and running... Still waiting on a green module from DX.... I'm a bit concerned though, I realize now that I bought a 200mW module with the intention that if I want white I can turn it down, or if I want solid green I can turn it back up to 200mW... What I didn't account for is that if I turn it down it may not laze at 60-80mW or whatever I need for white... I may have to use some kind of convoluted PWM setup to dim the green :-\...

That's interesting. I was actually thinking about using an old style O-like 200mW if I ever made a WF build. It was really appealing to me to have a very bright green beam along with multiple other pretty colors with not as strong beams. The module is not on O-like's website anymore so I don't know what current it runs at. I was planning on keeping the O-like driver attached and attaching the leads from the FML driver straight to the module, bypassing the O-like driver. It never occured to me that I couldn't lase the O-like at only 449ma.

If I remember correctly MISTERWILLING used a 100mW O-like in his build but he just underdrove it at ~50mW in order to increase the life of the module. If you contact FML he can show you what resistors to switch out so that you can set a higher max current, or so it seems:

FiremyLaser gave me instructions on which resistors to change out to set a higher max current. This also increased to heat dissapation of the 317 driver so 4x 4001 diodes were put in series before the diode to take some heat off. Worked great for me and this green module should last a while since it is being under-driven.

 

[sightfx]

It is just a matter of changing out the resistor or adding resistors in parallel. There are two resistances to work with. One to control the idle current for when modulation value is low (0V) and one for the max current when modulation value is high(5V). The PIC on the FML Extension driver is controlling the intensity with Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) so the your module will be pulse driven. The pen sized green modules seem to be different as far as when the will laze or hop off tem00 to some other mode. Hope yours behaves well for you psudo.