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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Sonar Laser Cases!

ArRaY said:
Great! The switch dark_horse will provide is placed under the switch of the sonar case?
I have another question: How to immobilize the heatsink module inside the case?
Also, is there a spring at the tailcap?


ArRaY
Click to expand...
I'm not Dark_Horse, but to answer your questions in advance..
1. Probably, yes.
2. It probably is a tight squeeze.
3. Yes, it shows it in one of the pictures.
 





Ah thanks. Damn I can´t wait ;D
I will probably design it to have red and blue interchangable, but as of now, have no idea how to do it.
 
Jimmymcjimthejim said:
[quote author=ArRaY link=1216368375/100#111 date=1219088650]Great! The switch dark_horse will provide is placed under the switch of the sonar case?
I have another question: How to immobilize the heatsink module inside the case?
Also, is there a spring at the tailcap?


ArRaY
Click to expand...
I'm not Dark_Horse, but to answer your questions in advance..
1. Probably, yes.
2. It probably is a tight squeeze.
3. Yes, it shows it in one of the pictures.[/quote]
Actually,
1. The switch is placed under the hole for the Sonar-button, so just a touch of sticky on the button, and push it into place, just like the pen-sized lasers, just as ArRay describes.
2. most of the heat-sink is a "slip-fit" in the barrel, except for the last 1/8" which is knurled to produce a slight "press-fit" into place, also the length of the 'sink-module will not allow too much movment back/forth, but the knurling should prevent any rotation. This is what makes these so time-consuming, machining each of these to +or- .001", ugh!
3. No, the spring in the pictures is one I had around, and unfortuatly, I could only find one, I will check at my local hardware-store, but at this time, "no tail-cap-spring" is included.
DH
 
drlava said:
totally slick, can't wait, and thanks DH!
Click to expand...

I haven't got you down on my list as wanting one, would you like me to sign you up as an interested party? :)
 
Yup.

Probably a few days before these will be ready to be shipped. I'll send all interested parties with a PM with the details.

Still 2 of these sets still to go :) If you're looking for an awesome host for your DIY and got a little extra to splash out, then these are the cases for you ;)
 
I am a maybe, forgot to mention that.
If someone has the money ready to pay before me, they can buy it.
 
So we will have to solder our own tailcap springs. I hope I find one lying around ;D

For a blueray, the only choice I have is a boostdriver, right? with a single big lithium, or 2 cr123a and therefore lowered efficence´?

ArRaY
 
ArRaY said:
So we will have to solder our own tailcap springs. I hope I find one lying around  ;D

For a blueray, the only choice I have is a boostdriver, right? with a single big lithium, or 2 cr123a and therefore lowered efficence´?

ArRaY
Click to expand...
The tail-cap spring just pushes into a pocket, (counter-bore), in the tail-cap, so no soldering needed there. For a BR, I am thinking a boost-driver is the best way to go.

I am waiting for my 17650 battery to show up and I am going to make a couple of "dummy CR-123's", so that my boost-circuit can run from a single CR123, at least until my longer battery shows up. Is anybody else interested in a dummy-cr123 battery?
DH
 
Hey, I think I expressed an interest in one of these but I'm not seeing my name on the list.
 
ArRaY said:
So we will have to solder our own tailcap springs. I hope I find one lying around ;D

For a blueray, the only choice I have is a boostdriver, right? with a single big lithium, or 2 cr123a and therefore lowered efficence´?

ArRaY
Click to expand...
I think that you would be able to use two 3.7V batteries to power a low powered BluRay diode with a Microdriver. The reason why I say "low powered" is because the diodes take more volts at a higher current. 3.7 + 3.7 = 7.4, 7.4 - 2.25 (Microdriver's dropout voltage) = 5.15, which is about what a BluRay diode needs. Keep in mind though that when fully charged these batteries go up to 4.2 volts.
 
I'll be sliding a "Flex-Drive" into the driver-compartment in mine. ;)
Update, I ran out of copper-contacts, so I will be making some more of these and installing them tonight, but several module are ready to go. Soon ;D
DH
 

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Okay guys, almost ready to ship! Soon I'll be messaging everyone who put down interest with the details :)

New pricing too, it's now $79 USD. The $4 increase is for the switch that has been preinstalled in to the heatsinks, as you can see in the above picture! That means that all you have to worry about is an Aixiz module with a diode in it and a driver. That's it, got those things and you're ready to go! DIY couldn't get much simpler ;)

Oh, and a special offer from Dark_Horse too! +$4 to the price to have a DX module already installed in the heatsink. I'm sure Dark_Horse can come and elaborate on what the deal is :)
 
Murudai said:
Okay guys, almost ready to ship! Soon I'll be messaging everyone who put down interest with the details :)

New pricing too, it's now $79 USD. The $4 increase is for the switch that has been preinstalled in to the heatsinks, as you can see in the above picture! That means that all you have to worry about is an Aixiz module with a diode in it and a driver. That's it, got those things and you're ready to go! DIY couldn't get much simpler ;)

Oh, and a special offer from Dark_Horse too! +$4 to the price to have a DX module already installed in the heatsink. I'm sure Dark_Horse can come and elaborate on what the deal is :)
Click to expand...

Not too much to add here, the reason I am offering a DX-module option is that a "Sure-module" will not fit in these heat-sinks, they are just a little too big, and I have had a couple Aixiz-modules be too tight, out of about 50 Heat-sinks I have sold. So the choice is up to you, these will fit 95% of all available diode-modules, but if you are worried, $4 buys you one that fits for sure. These will include a lens and "focus-ring", although you will l,ikely leave the focus-ring off when installing it into a Sonar barrel.
DH
 
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