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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Mini Green Kit! SCHWEET!

I always never wanted to mess with focusing a green...

Seems that the beam is so nice and thin... I have always liked the greens with a fixed focus.

About your idea to modify that host to have a 'push on / push off' button, that really sounds awesome Igor. I would like to see that! And have that! :D
 





jayrob said:
About your idea to modify that host to have a 'push on / push off' button, that really sounds awesome Igor. I would like to see that! And have that! :D
Click to expand...

If made with SMD parts, it could be a really tiny PCB one could include almost anywhere!

Best part is, it conducts all the current, the button just tells it to!
So additionally the button doesn't corrode or oxidize with use, even if it's rated for just a few mA (when a laser with big caps on the driver is powered up, the first current surge is several Ampers!)...
 
Is it something you could make and sell me a couple, and would it be easy to install?
 
jayrob said:
...it's a nice fit into this great stainless steel host!
Click to expand...
Jay,

not bad, not bad - always innovating! However, I still prefer the original "look", not to mention, I already have the host... .

Igor, what are the chances you would be interested in modding one of your better 532nm modules with an ultra-short driver and selling it to me...? 50mm or less would be the optimal goal... .

It may not be the most exciting thing you will do in this field, but could become another welcomed addition to your already exciting "product line"... :D

I paid ~$110 for a 130~150mW clean & stable module (O-Like) and would be willing to pay more for a HQ module that fits into Jay's [original] Romisen!
 
How do you bi-pass the switch on these new style green modules?
Thanks
 
It's always best to test the switch with your DMM to make sure which two contact points 'close' when pressing the button...

But if they are all the same, my module switch could be by-passed by connecting a small wire from one of the front contact points, to one of the back contact points. On either side of the switch.

There were 4 contact points on the switch, and all I had to do was connect either the two on the left, or the two on the right. Either two, and it would have the same result of by-passing the switch...
 
Thanks for that clear explanation Jayrob, Ile double check with my DMM just to be safe.
 
Does a CR2 battery have simular dimensions to a CR123?
Ive been looking at alternative stainless steel hosts that could potentially also work for the DX modules.

What do you think of these?

1278-top-bottom-tank007-tk-506-stainless-steel-aa-batt-mte-c3-1-stainless-steel-aa-batt-ultrafire-stainless-steel-aa-batt.jpg



From Top to Bottom,

TANK007 TK-506 Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt

MTE C3-1 Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt

Ultrafire Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt
 
Last edited:
I just measured an UltraFire 3.0/3.6 CR2 rechargeable battery... 15.2mm X 27.7mm

Then I measured a CR123 primary... 16.4mm X 34.2mm






aynonemus serv3d, I'm sending your Mini Green kit today. (Friday)

Hope you like it! :)
 
ooohhh i want one with a 150mw laser did we finnally decide on what will fit and work best Jay? Igor do you have anything that will work in this host?
 
You just need to check your module length as shown in the pictures of that post I linked above. :rolleyes:

If it is the same length as shown (or shorter), then it will work. And I can make the host/heatsink combo with a machined out barrel to fit a CR2 battery! :)
 
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