Hi, any luck with getting something from Susie that would fit (50mm or less)?

Alright thank you guys. I'll see what I can work out.

hey jayrob, on the flexdrive idea, what if we isolated the battery.

This way we make the case neutral and the power exchange is only between the flexdrive, the battery, and the diode.

You could even still use the clicky on the back if you isolated it from the case and ran a thin gage wire up a cut groove on the inside of the case up to the flex.

On an semirelated note, jayrob, this whole case positive thing has me concerned about our white lasers. Since the green, red, and blu are all connected to the sled and all actively heat sinked, do we run risk of hurting any or all of the diodes by not having them electically isolated from eachother? If not, have you tried running the green with a flex in your white build? I am considering it so i can get a constant output as i am noticing the color widely varies based on input voltage on the green.

Hmmm... not a bad idea isolating the battery, except it would be hard to set it up because the tail switch must screw on. And that's the contact point to the host...


About the 7 color build, my set up does not have to have the green positive isolated from the other laser negatives, because I am using a separate supply and driver for each laser.

But sightfx has a solution for isolating the mounting for those who want to use a single supply for all lasers.

By the way, I just posted some great beam shots in the night sky to show how nice the beams look if you get the alignment and color blend just right! See here: http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/bu...nks-41942.html

No one? Jay, any new leads, amigo?

Such a nice build, so sad that it's currently hosting such a p.o.s. module...

Yeah... mine is 62mW's steady. Still the one I reach for when going out and about though.

Just because it is so nice and small. Plus I really like the stainless steel finish!


I have been waiting and waiting for my DX 200mW module to get here so I can maybe try disconnecting the driver and making it all fit some how. But the canceled my first order, saying it was not legal for U.S. shipping. I ordered another because I know that they have shipped some to the U.S.

Still waiting...

I know as soon as I buy one of jays kits that would be it I would be hopelessly addicted to the quality and end up buying every type he sells lol

Ha ha!

Like Lay's potato chips...

You can't try just one!

Update!

I finally got my DX 200mW module.

The module is under powered at about 105mW's, but still, it's a nice fit into this great stainless steel host!

Then I swapped out this DX module with another one that I had, so I have a nice 120mW module in this SS C3 host now!

Here's how...







The red wire gets cut off, and the black wire gets cut short as well (just leave enough solder there to make contact to the battery negative), and the switch gets by-passed.

Pretty easy! Just make sure your DX module is the same size as shown in the pictures, and let me know when you order the kit so that I can drill the heatsink through at the front, and machine out an AixiZ focus ring for you.

No extra charge for this work if you want this kit!

Had to come and see after reading your PM..

So, one, no... Two questions...

1. What's the modules power? And how stable is it (by itself)?

2. Does extra heatsinking make it stay at a high power longer, or does it make it take longer to reach the high power?

I've seen both in the greens i converted, some severelly disliked heatsinking (had to remove it or they would stay at half the power!), others needed it badly, what's your experience with this?

For your second question, my personal experience with all cheap modules so far, has been to use good heatsinking for best results. It makes it much more stable. These modules seem to go right to their peak with-in 15 or 20 seconds.

I'm certainly no expert with these DPSS modules, just going off what I have found with o-like, and now DX modules.

In this picture:


... you see a black cheap greenie that I got from DX a while back. It was sold as 200mW's from DX. When I got it, it was only about 70mW's, and I pot modded it to 120mW's. Stable too!

Notice that it is labeled at 75mW's. That's because it now contains my new DX 200mW module that I just got in the mail today.

It seems that getting these cheap modules is just a matter of... 'you may, or may not get a good one'. Just like with o-like having some nice over powered ones that you get once in a while.

Well, my new DX 200mW module was only 105mW's and not too stable. So I pot modded it until I found a nice stable spot. It is now nice and stable, but giving only 75mW's to 80mW's.

Now... long story long, I took the nice stable 120mW (pot moded) module out of the black host, and installed it into my Stainless Steel C3 (CR2 modified) host.

The module from the DX black laser was the same size module and exact same driver as the DX 200mW module that I got in the mail today.

Since I like the SS C3 host so much, I swapped out the modules...

I'm asking, because i had this DX200 pen which i gutted, put into a massive aluminum (30mW Romisen greenie) host, added heatsinking, and then it went from 160mW (without heatsinking) to 80mW (with heatsinking) and slowly climbed, but never really peaked!

It was "stable", yes, because heat dissipation prevented it from reaching it's peak! (I think some of the cheaper chinese manufacturers DEPEND on heat to get their DPSS laser to it's peak faster, even tho it then drops rapidly afterwards! If the ones you use are better than that, i need to test them!)


I then had to gradually remove bits of the heatsink until i got it to start at ~130mW and stay there!

I just revived that one again last night, it was gathering dust for a year, cos i gave TheMonk one of my CNI pen drivers, while the other was lost (CNI makes AMAZING linear drivers, with a dropout of only 0.3V and very stable!)...

Last night i found the other CNI driver and revived the beasty, which looks EXACTLY like the upper laser in your photo below!

Was this also a "30"mW Romisen greenie before you replaced the module?
Or is it one of their higher power ones with similar looks:




Yep, i had to go through SEVEN DX200 pens to get ONE that didn't mode-hop! Well rather i went through two myself, then i had to convince a DX customer support guy to go grab a box of them and test them them according to my instructions (by shining them onto a wall through a magnifying glass for a minute, pausing for 30s and again for a minute on the wall while watching for signs of modehopping! Even had to give him the SKU of the magnifying glass!)...
He said he had to go through SEVEN to find ONE that worked!


But he did the job well, and i got THE PERFECT "200"mW DX Greenie pen, and in the massive 30mW Romisen body it is now doing 130 at 680mA.

However i know that these pens are set to 780mA by the factory, so i guess i should up the current? The heatsinking is more than enough now. I just hope the diode can survive it!




In any case, Jay...

I included one of my two 30mW Romisen greenie hosts in the package for you, as well as the DPSS module from a dead CNI greenie... The bottom of the module slides into the body, but the top doesn't slide into the head (the hole is made only for a thin plastic tube that holds the collimator lens).


I was hoping you could carefully grab the head in your lathe (in a way that doesn't damage the black anodizing?) and machine it, so that the top of the CNI module would go into it?


I have this FANTASTIC 150mW+ CNI pen, that goes as high as 174mW sometimes, but... You know - a pen offers little heatsinking... And i'm not a big duty cycle fan...
This 30mW Romisen host on the other hand, is all aluminum... And A LOT of it!


Well, i already removed the good CNI module from the pen, but it's a sensitive thing, so i included an identical dead one with the Romisen host for you to try to fit it in. If you get it in, my good CNI module will also fit!
I also made some photos to explain how i want it to go together (need to edit and send you an email)...


What i was hoping is, that you would machine a hole into the head from the inner side, in a way, that the dead CNI module would slide in somewhat snugly (for thermal contact), but not too tight (so it doesn't get stuck), and that when the head is screwed onto the body, it presses the module down into the body - this should create some badly needed heatsinking for this laser, and give me a tiny but powerful (but most importantly) STABLE greenie!


What do you think?

By now it's a whole list of things i'm ordering from you....


P.S. I finally got that Brother P-Touch label printer! It's great, thanks for the tip!

Glad you like the label printer! Did you try some of the black labels than print white lettering? Those look the best. (IMO)

About fitting the module. Sounds like a piece of cake Igor...

I'll get it fit just right for you.

About the black host in the picture. Yes, they had a 30mW, and 100mW, and a 200mW one, all in the exact same hosts. Nice little hosts! But a momentary side button set up, instead of a click on / click off switch.

Notice how much smaller the SS C3 host is! And I got the same module in there with a CR2 rechargeable!

Oh absolutelly! The white-on-black are what i wanted.. Too bad they include a black-on-white sample... But hey, i'm sure it'll come in handy, and i didn't have to waste the black tape while learning how to use the printer...

I know! I'll label host boxes with the white tape, and use the black for lasers!


The only thing i don't like is how it always comes out with too much empty tape before the text begins, while it cuts off much closer to the end of the text.. Or did i set something wrong (i think i messed with a Tab setting)?

It's 26 feet of tape, so i shouldn't complain, besides, Glenn found it on a sale for me - Printer (w. sample tape) + White-on-Black tape for $24 total!

Our customs didn't want to believe the price at first, since the thing was so big, and to make matters worse, the sale was over and the price on the web page (they check web pages, yes!!!) suddenly high enough for them to charge custom fees and taxes! But i had the original invoice and all...

Of course they didn't notice, that Glenn cut the box open to hide a bunch of GGW diodes and other stuff worth much more than the printer itself inside!


Great! Thank you Jay!

The CNI module will really come to life in this aluminum host, and run longer with a CR123 for a power source! (i'm using the original CNI driver, did i mention how amazing it was? )

This is gonna be my favorite greenie as soon as i get the machined head back from you!


Just before i gutted it, it was starting to drop in power in the pen host, which worried me a little.. I hope the transplant didn't come too late...


Hmm, you just gave me an idea!

There is a lot of room in the black Romisen greenie host under the driver - the driver has to be supported so as not to bend when you press the button (The manufacturer usually supports it with a small piece of foam - not even enough of it, which is silly, and most of these lasers break that way - from pressing the button!)...

I made a plastic holder for the driver, to keep it centered, and prevent putting pressure on diode pins. And it's hollow. I could rewire the momentary button to go through there first, and toggle a solid state switch which would then turn the driver ON and OFF!

Because i really do like to have a constant-ON option on a laser! Especially for photos..


I did, and i like it!

See, I'd never think of machining the battery tube larger, to get a fatter battery in, and would get stuck with an 14270 instead...

I just weighed a CR2 and a 14250 (2/3 AA) and the CR2 has 12g, while the 2/3AA has 10.. So the CR2 must have a higher capacity.. Mine say 600mAh, altho in reality, a CR123 has that...


Did you ever think about making it focusable? I'd like to have a green with a beam like a red of a BluRay and adjustable focus!

I just don't know if it would work with the original expander lens, or if it doesn't diverge the beam enough for our usual lenses....

I always never wanted to mess with focusing a green...

Seems that the beam is so nice and thin... I have always liked the greens with a fixed focus.

About your idea to modify that host to have a 'push on / push off' button, that really sounds awesome Igor. I would like to see that! And have that!

If made with SMD parts, it could be a really tiny PCB one could include almost anywhere!

Best part is, it conducts all the current, the button just tells it to!
So additionally the button doesn't corrode or oxidize with use, even if it's rated for just a few mA (when a laser with big caps on the driver is powered up, the first current surge is several Ampers!)...

Is it something you could make and sell me a couple, and would it be easy to install?

Jay,

not bad, not bad - always innovating! However, I still prefer the original "look", not to mention, I already have the host... .

Igor, what are the chances you would be interested in modding one of your better 532nm modules with an ultra-short driver and selling it to me...? 50mm or less would be the optimal goal... .

It may not be the most exciting thing you will do in this field, but could become another welcomed addition to your already exciting "product line"...

I paid ~$110 for a 130~150mW clean & stable module (O-Like) and would be willing to pay more for a HQ module that fits into Jay's [original] Romisen!

How do you bi-pass the switch on these new style green modules?
Thanks

It's always best to test the switch with your DMM to make sure which two contact points 'close' when pressing the button...

But if they are all the same, my module switch could be by-passed by connecting a small wire from one of the front contact points, to one of the back contact points. On either side of the switch.

There were 4 contact points on the switch, and all I had to do was connect either the two on the left, or the two on the right. Either two, and it would have the same result of by-passing the switch...

Thanks for that clear explanation Jayrob, Ile double check with my DMM just to be safe.

Does a CR2 battery have simular dimensions to a CR123?
Ive been looking at alternative stainless steel hosts that could potentially also work for the DX modules.

What do you think of these?




From Top to Bottom,

TANK007 TK-506 Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt

MTE C3-1 Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt

Ultrafire Stainless Steel ~ AA Batt

I just measured an UltraFire 3.0/3.6 CR2 rechargeable battery... 15.2mm X 27.7mm

Then I measured a CR123 primary... 16.4mm X 34.2mm






aynonemus serv3d, I'm sending your Mini Green kit today. (Friday)

Hope you like it!

why? o-like...More expensive.

130~150mW Green laser Module£*>5¡«500mW green laser module£*>Laser&lighting products£*>www.0-like.com

DealExtreme: $46.81 200mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm)

Better quality
At least when Susie sells you a module. The specs will be close to what is advertised. Not off by 130mW like the DX module.