Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Jibs Linear Drivers






bhwollen said:
They are meant for 6-9v thats why its soo low.
Click to expand...

Jib did some testing and one of his 429ma drivers ran a LPC-815 at 429ma using 4.2volts

But, thats not the same with the Cattio diodes since they have a higher Vf

a 429ma driver would be excellent for a portable lab build since you could run it using a few 36650 cells in parallel if you want to take it somewhere and you can then just plug it back into your psu at home.

It also wont generate much excess heat since 4.2 volts is just right

(445 DIODES ARE DIFFERENT...) I dont want anyone getting mixed up between the two
 
Last edited:
I' trying to find which protection diode to use (I mean, which model). I'll set jibs' the drivers at 1.25A with a protected 18650 battery (max. 4.2v). Does anybody knows how to find the correct diode ? I went to the electronic's shop and they had lots of different models and they ask me for the model (for example 1N4001 Rectifier diode 1A 50v or 1N5400 @ 3A 50v).

1N4001
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/1N/1N4007.pdf

1N5400
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/1N/1N5408.pdf

About "50v", it means it can work up to that voltage ? so if it's working at 4v will have no problem or it will not work ?

(b)
 
Last edited:
megha said:
I' trying to find which protection diode to use (I mean, which model). I'll set jibs' the drivers at 1.25A with a protected 18650 battery (max. 4.2v). Does anybody knows how to find the correct diode ? I went to the electronic's shop and they had lots of different models and they ask me for the model (for example 1N4001 Rectifier diode 1A 50v or 1N5400 @ 3A 50v).

1N4001
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/1N/1N4007.pdf

1N5400
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/1N/1N5408.pdf

About "50v", it means it can work up to that voltage ? so if it's working at 4v will have no problem or it will not work ?

(b)
Click to expand...

You don't need a high amperage diode since its just a drain in the event of reverse voltage so a 1N4001 is fine.
 
***NEW, just added 100mA and 144mA drivers***

1.25A back in stock.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again for your help ! (check your last reply I think is 1.25A instead of 1.25mA). (b)
 
Last edited:
Whoever tagged "sex"... Grow up

How are you progressing on your boost drives Jib?

also, Would it be possible to use two 1.5ohm resistors in parallel so make a 1.65amp driver? I think that would be a good current for people who want high powers without compromising diode life too much...
 
Last edited:
megha said:
Thanks again for your help ! (check your last reply I think is 1.25A instead of 1.25mA). (b)
Click to expand...

Haha ... thanks, Thats what 3am does to the brain ... fixed.

LaZeRz said:
How are you progressing on your boost drives Jib?
Click to expand...

The last of the parts should be in today. If all goes well I should have the first batch done on Saturday.

LaZeRz said:
also, Would it be possible to use two 1.5ohm resistors in parallel so make a 1.65amp driver? I think that would be a good current for people who want high powers without compromising diode life too much...
Click to expand...

Is 1.63A close enough? If so I have the resistors to do it (1ohm + 3.3ohm).
 
I just tested the driver that I bought from you.. And it appears the diode is fried. It had 8.4 volts input, and 7.85 volts output going to the diode. A similar thing happened with my last driver. There appeared to be no resistance in either the diode nor the driver. So this is not far from powering the driver when its connected to nothing. Would this break the driver? (I dont want to order another diode, just to fry it with this driver).

Thanks,

AAlasers
 
AAlasers said:
I just tested the driver that I bought from you.. And it appears the diode is fried. It had 8.4 volts input, and 7.85 volts output going to the diode. A similar thing happened with my last driver. There appeared to be no resistance in either the diode nor the driver. So this is not far from powering the driver when its connected to nothing. Would this break the driver? (I dont want to order another diode, just to fry it with this driver).

Thanks,

AAlasers
Click to expand...

What? The output voltage doesnt mean anything since this is a current regulator. Did you hook it up to a test load and see what kind of current it is putting out?
 
The last test load I had does not work anymore. At the moment, I dont have a test load; I did not test the current output. But It SHOULD be outputting 1.3-1.6 amps. I connected it to the diode.. and the input voltage to the diode was 7.85 volts. 8.36 volts to the driver, from two 18350 batteries.
Neither the driver nor the diode was getting warm.

Thanks,

AAlasers
 
As Helios stated earlier, voltage is meaningless in a constant current driver. You are getting 7.85V because that is what the diode is demanding ... you really need to test it with a test load to see what really is going on.

Its cheap to make yourself a high power test load for 445, in fact shipping might cost more than the parts:
Get 4 of >>these<< and one of >>these<<.

Do you have a heatsink on the resistor side? If so, check to make sure they are not shorted by the heatsink.
 
444mA Driver it's ok for LPC-815?

Can you test the 1.3A DRIVER at 4.2V for red?
Which one Gives >400mA at 4.2V for red?
 
A lpc-815 will run fine with a 4.2volt cell.

When the voltage reaches about 3.8volts you start seeing dramatic current decreases so if your using a large cell like an 18650 your fine :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top