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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: 18650 Cree Aurora Copper Heat sinks

I got lucky and bought my 9x0.5 tap on ebay for like $5 from china, and for some reason they sent it express mail. So i got it in like 4 days.

I had thought about doing that but didn't know how well it would work. I was going to try to put the tap on the lathe and remove the tapered end.
 





Mohrenberg said:
I got lucky and bought my 9x0.5 tap on ebay for like $5 from china, and for some reason they sent it express mail. So i got it in like 4 days.

I had thought about doing that but didn't know how well it would work. I was going to try to put the tap on the lathe and remove the tapered end.
Click to expand...


Ehh, I don't think turning a tap down in a lathe is a good idea, taps are pretty brittle. I could see one exploding, especially because of the flutes (The repeated cutting/no cutting/cutting thing)

Does your tap say "M9.0X0.50 HS HAND TAP PLUG CHINA" on a little white box? If so that's the same tap Victor will send you.
 
i dont think its a good idea either to turn it down on your lathe if it snaps its like a bullet..you dont want that to happen.

and i also think that IF you would turn off the tapered end you will have a pretty hard time getting the tap nice and straight in the hole, that is if you even can get it in the hole.

unless you use a tapered one first, i didnt read everything:banghead:
 
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I personally don't like working with copper on my "harbor freight" lathe, because even though it's marketed at 3/4 horsepower it's actually 1/3 horsepower and won't play nice. On a commercial CNC lathe it is a dream to create anything your heart desires in copper. It's the price of that "up front" cost and the weight/shipping that get in the way for most. :)

Edit: And stainless steel on my harbor freight is a nightmare, except for polishing.
 
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millirad said:
I personally don't like working with copper on my "harbor freight" lathe, because even though it's marketed at 3/4 horsepower it's actually 1/3 horsepower and won't play nice. On a commercial CNC lathe it is a dream to create anything your heart desires in copper. It's the price of that "up front" cost and the weight/shipping that get in the way for most. :)

Edit: And stainless steel on my harbor freight is a nightmare, except for polishing.
Click to expand...

It's still hard to get a nice finish in commercial machines, you have to have fresh sharp tooling, otherwise the copper will just smear instead of digging in. Aluminum is the same way when you're spinning it really fast, in fact you absolutely have to have coolant when milling (or turning, to a lesser extent) aluminum, otherwise the chips you're making will come right back around and weld themselves to your work. Not to mention aluminum loves to gall just about every cutting tool it can come in contact with...

Stupid aluminum :p

Copper is a pain in the butt!
 
yeah i found that going at a slower speed is often much more productive. It's annoying when the aluminum welds itself to the end of your tool and it stops cutting, so you have to stop and pry it off.
Perhaps the HF lathe feels more of 1/3 HP on it's hi setting of 2200RPM's.
I know it has more much torque before stalling on the low setting of 1100 max rpm's, which i run it on. I only use the fast setting for polishing.


heyyyy i see a banner for the world's most powerful portable 445nm laser! wow, it's got to be at least over 1.8W then right?!?!



oh nvm....
.....I just......I.......

I never thought a Chinese store would ever lie to me :(
They are normally so trustworthy.
 
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Mohrenberg said:
heyyyy i see a banner for the world's most powerful portable 445nm laser! wow, it's got to be at least over 1.8W then right?!?!



oh nvm....
.....I just......I.......

I never thought a Chinese store would ever lie to me :(
They are normally so trustworthy.
Click to expand...

No worries. We'll do our best to keep people informed.
 
Just a quick question about the assembly of this heatsink in to the host...

Will the heatsink take up all of the space in the head of the host, or will we need to use the pill so the HS will be tight up against the exit area?
 
the heat sinks is held in place by a threaded ring that goes on the top of the laser.
If you look at the photos closely you'll see the seam.
You insert the heat sink from the top, and then screw down the top ring to hold it tight.
 
You stated photos...what photos?

I checked the OP, and all I see are heatsinks and the fully put together host/HS...

Do you mean a retainer ring that comes with the host?

Or is it something you make for it?
 
Pontiacg5 said:
Business does not belong on this forum. It ruins it. Plain and simple.
Click to expand...

This has become a very interesting thread with good points all around really.
I must disagree in small part though with the business on the forums.
As I can get drivers, host and sometime diodes off the forums...Heat-sinks for the host can be VERY hard to come by.
A matching host and heat-sink that is available from a trusted member of the Forums has been my Only outlet for these until Radiant Electronics(Mario I think) offered One host off forums.(very nice but only one style)(I also suggest them because of the price).
I have had a few Host/Heat-sink from Mohrenberg and have always been happy with what I got and thought it was a very fair price for the work he had to put into it.

I am not taking sides.....please.

Only that there might be a need for some control of sales on the forums but it should not be banished. I, like others, did not come here just to buy stuff, but to learn all we could and become true laser enthusiast. To do this we will still need supplies(I can only scrap so much from harvested electronics:))

Again...just my two cents:beer:
 
viperx1101 said:
You stated photos...what photos?

I checked the OP, and all I see are heatsinks and the fully put together host/HS...

Do you mean a retainer ring that comes with the host?

Or is it something you make for it?
Click to expand...

I meant the photos on the DX website, if you follow the two links i have posted in the OP you'll see them
 
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