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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: >110mW PHR, >140mW 4x & >170mW 6x Blu-Rays

Hiya Igor,

This isn't related to my "favours" is it? Email's working as far as I can tell, but just in case... :-)

Cheers, CC


The bonus-builds are finally ready, unless you guys wanna go for the "free" (as in free-work) 6x lasers at 150mW! :evil:
I have everything ready for that.. In Keychain or Tiny AAA Monster hosts... :angel:
 
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I always recommended Jayrob's work for DIY builders.

But now i'll also start offering custom on-request basis assembly of his kits with my efficiency/wavelength sorted laser diodes, powered by my driver or the FlexDrive (with the addition of a few stabilizing/protection X5R and Tantalum capacitors for a big discount!)...


Anyone interested can post their request in a special thread i will prepare for this today.
 
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Igor is currently working on a GGW 6x build for me. And soon, I'll be having him build me an 8x in my kryton groove! I can't wait. Thanks Igor!
 
Igor's boost circuit is probably the best blu-ray driver there is...

I was thinking about how a rkcstr driver would not work in that combination. (8X/Kryton)

It would work, but not stay in regulation for long. Don't get me wrong, we all know that the rkcstr drivers are great drivers. But you need a boost circuit in that combination for it to work properly...




I always recommended Jayrob's work for DIY builders.

But now i'll also start offering custom on-request basis assembly of his kits with my efficiency/wavelength sorted laser diodes, powered by my driver or the FlexDrive (with the addition of a few stabilizing/protection X5R and Tantalum capacitors for a big discount!)...


Anyone interested can post their request in a special thread i will prepare for this today.


Igor, really glad to see your announcement that you would build your choice diodes in my kits! :) I have a feeling that my Key Chain CR2 kit may become a candidate for your awesome work!
 
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Igor's boost circuit is probably the best blu-ray driver there is...

I was thinking about how a rkcstr driver would not work in that combination. (8X/Kryton)

It would work, but not stay in regulation for long. Don't get me wrong, we all know that the rkcstr drivers are great drivers. But you need a boost circuit in that combination for it to work properly...

It'll be using his driver and an 18650 for sure. I like the rkcstr driver, but only on PHR's and LOC's. For more expensive diodes in my own builds, I'll use a flexdrive.

I've heard nothing but great things about IgorT's builds, I can't wait!
 
Hey IgorT.

I'm interested in your heatsink/host. The grey one.

I have a PHR inside an aixiz module.
I also have 1 phr sled that I can extract. (got 2 after i killed 1st one)

I don't have a diode press tool btw. Pliers worked for me.

I have a rkcstr driver and 2 new rayfoss constant current buck/boost drivers coming in.
They are the same size as the rkcstr driver.

Does the rkcstr driver fit in your grey host? (the v3)
If not, does it fit in the v2?

What would you recommend ??


I'd love to get a PHR in one of your hosts. Preferably using the PHR maybe even driver I got.

Better than the PHR I got taped/rubber-banded to a 2-cell lipo battery with bare wires... :crackup:
(see the pic for the PHR rubber banded to the battery hahaha)
(and yes the heat shrink tubing over the wire solder joint is still un-heatshrinked lolz)


PS: I shouldn't really be buying anything considering I'm broke.
But if it helps ya make some $ for the 8x murder I'm in for it.
 

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Igor's boost circuit is probably the best blu-ray driver there is...

I was thinking about how a rkcstr driver would not work in that combination. (8X/Kryton)

It would work, but not stay in regulation for long. Don't get me wrong, we all know that the rkcstr drivers are great drivers. But you need a boost circuit in that combination for it to work properly...


Yes, Rkcstr's driver needs 3x Li-Ion to regulate the current through a 405nm diode and keep it constant until the batteries go flat.

His driver is just as stable in current as mine, as long as powered correctly.

But it's a waste of a Li-Ion and a half - that's how much gets converted to heat alone - since linear drivers regulate exactly by converting to heat all the electrical power (current times voltage) that is not needed by the load...


With a DC/DC converter driver (or boost driver), a single Li-Ion gets used up at a much higher efficiency while it doesn't even have the voltage required to power the diode... But the driver boosts the voltage, using more current from the battery to make up for the voltage difference required...

This is why people are often surprised if they measure the current draw from the battery and see that it's higher than the diode current i declare for their laser (for 6x's 190-200mA max to reach anywhere from 180-210mW after acrylics or 210-250mW with AR coated glass)...



As for the above Kryton Groove (which i just received, BTW), the 18650 battery is PERFECT, because it provides a huge power source for a high efficiency driver which creates no heat, long battery life, and the Kryton itself is a giant heatsink anyway!!!

That laser will probably have a STRICT duty cycle of one week! :drool:


No, i'm kidding, but it could run for an HOUR STRAIGHT without overheating! :evil:
And not just without overheating, but the power would most likelly be stable for half an hour or so. Or it would drop a few mW in the first few minutes and then simply stay put! :bowdown:





Igor, really glad to see your announcement that you would build your choice diodes in my kits! :) I have a feeling that my Key Chain CR2 kit may become a candidate for your awesome work!

I think so too, it could be great! It's definitelly an awesome host and i can tell just from how you made the tutorial and your photos!. :)
It's an awesome little kit, capable of high powers, i'll probably be using them with 6x's, definitelly an 8x for myself, but for the most part i think 8x's need more heatsinking for a longer duty cycle... Here it might actually matter.

But i expect five minutes for a 6x, and two minutes for an 8x, which of course won't stop me from making a 20 minute graph once i do so, but for the most part, two minutes for an 8x is usually enough for most people.. If they want a longer Power-UP ability, i can make it in another one of your kits with a slightly larger heatsink...


I'll probably make them with FlexDrives (for 6x's), or let you know the dimensions i need for my driver, to make an 8x....
My driver is 1mm longer than FlexDrive, altho i could shorten a little... I'm sure that if i modify the layout of my driver's PCB just a little bit, i can easily get my driver in there.. It goes sideways, right? Yes, then it's possible if that extra little stability (less than 0.3mA drift in current) is required.....



If i use FlexDrives, i would of course stabilize them FIRST.

Here is my "secret" to increasing FlexDrives to 1mA stability:
It's a very simple process of adding:
- a Y5V SMD 0805 capacitor on the input for high current ripple
- a X53 SMD 0805 capacitor on the input for a more smooth powerup
- a Tantalum capacitor on the output, to protect from abnormal driver operation, which can occur when using unprotected batteries and the voltage becomes too low, resulting in rapid pulsing of the poor diode.... (those pulses can be dangerous if no extra protection is used, this also absorbs any and all additional power-up spikes at the same time)

This way the FlexDrive becomes practically 1mA stable, the drift only three times as much as with my driver and the power will always be the same, regardless of the battery voltage, but i do believe this is required, for TOTAL diode protection, especially since CR2's don't come with protection PCBs anymore... :cryyy:


Of course, i might keep the exact values of the capacitors to myself, because there is no reason for me to share ALL my little secrets with other builders.. :angel:

Just kidding, the caps are 1uF for the Y5V, 10uF for the X5R, and 47uF for the diode protection cap...



Among other things it also requires careful selection of the FlexDrives (some are more stable than others), and using the rest for reds where a few mA of current drift does not influence the power noticably.... :evil:
 
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As for the above Kryton Groove (which i just received, BTW), the 18650 battery is PERFECT, because it provides a huge power source for a high efficiency driver which creates no heat, long battery life, and the Kryton itself is a giant heatsink anyway!!!

That laser will probably have a STRICT duty cycle of one week! :drool:


No, i'm kidding, but it could run for an HOUR STRAIGHT without overheating! :evil:
And not just without overheating, but the power would most likelly be stable for half an hour or so. Or it would drop a few mW in the first few minutes and then simply stay put! :bowdown:

woohoo! I'm so happy they arrived ok.

(doing the scopeguy avatar dance)

Yea the krytons are amazing. I think there is a modest sized link in my sig for where to order them :thinking:
 
Hey IgorT.
I'm interested in your heatsink/host. The grey one.

Good, that's the Romisen host, some people call it the "Classic", because while i did make several other models, this one was requested in the majority of orders in the past and the present... :whistle:


That's because it's SMALL, very tiny in fact. Now there are smaller hosts out there, i've had some of my own machined by Jayrob, and they came out GREAT!

But a 6x or even an 8x laser require some heatsinking and that can best be achieved in a laser with some room enough for a good heatsink!


It's in the smallest size that still requires no duty cycle limit!
Altho the 12x will probably have a five minute limit....


Basically, tiny lasers are cool, i'll have a lot of fun putting Jay's CR2 Keychains together, they at least have a heatsink unlike narrower keychain hosts!

But on the other hand, my Jay tiny Keychain with a Nichia at 200mW inside takes like five minutes or more to get noticably warm!

That is also an awesome host! I need to order two more of those!



I have a PHR inside an aixiz module.
I also have 1 phr sled that I can extract. (got 2 after i killed 1st one)

I don't have a diode press tool btw. Pliers worked for me. [/QUOTE]

Pliars? You mean you used two pliars at once to press the diode in the AixiZ module?


That's OK i guess, if done right, BUT you didn't push the diode into the AixiZ to the end....

With AixiZ the diode is not meant to be flush with the top but "under-flush", slightly deeper, this way it also gets better thermal conductivity into the AixiZ module, which is also the first heatsink for the diode, the heatsink around AixiZ is the second one....

Otherwise, my v3 Heatsink/Module IS the module, it can't accept an AixiZ, you'd have to go with my v2 HS/M, which accepts AixiZ nicelly..

However i usually select the heatsink that fits the AixiZ SNUGLY, for optimal thermal transfer.

The only thing we can do is for you to send me the PHR module, so i can remove it, put it in a v3, or at least find a v2 that fits your AixiZ snugly.

In both cases i would remove the diode just to put some thermal paste, before reinserting it correctly with a diode press tool.


So how about you just send that module to me, so i see what i can do? :yh:


I have a rkcstr driver and 2 new rayfoss constant current buck/boost drivers coming in.
They are the same size as the rkcstr driver.

That's too bad... :(

My lasers only have room for a shortened AixiZ module inside... The AixiZ has to be shortened, or the module would not fit in the head...


Does the rkcstr driver fit in your grey host? (the v3)
If not, does it fit in the v2?

What would you recommend ??

The v3 IS the module, that's why i call it a Heatsink/Module! I can't get an AixiZ into it, because it already is a fat aluminum AixiZ module... :yh:

But yes, the v2 WOULD fit your AixiZ module, it was made just for that, however i usually go through large bags of heatsinks and AixiZ modules to find press-fit modules for the heatsinks, and then use those, because the thermal transfer will be better if i use a module that fits SNUGLY.



As for Rkcstr driver... It's a very fine - stable in current driver, but can't run off ONE Li-Ion for any diode at all! It needs two Li-Ions for reds and three for blurays...


I once butchered Rkcstr's driver to make it 12mm long and get it inside this host!

Then i had to power it with TWO Li-Ions, to power a RED diode..
This required me to use 1/2AA size Li-Ions, with low capacity - half the length of an AA, same diameter.

The end result was that the tiny laser got three times as hot as it would with a cheap boost driver, like the FlexDrive...
The power was VERY unstable, not because of the driver, but because of the HEAT produced by the driver...

A BluRay diode would require THREE Li-Ions, and my host is made to accept one AA size battery! They probably make 1/3d AA Li-Ions, but the laser would be cooked by the driver from the inside. :cry:

It's impossible to do with what you are proposing. You'll just have to trust me and go with the right parts i'm afraid...


I'd love to get a PHR in one of your hosts. Preferably using the PHR maybe even driver I got.

Better than the PHR I got taped/rubber-banded to a 2-cell lipo battery with bare wires... :crackup:

Well, send me the parts, and the Rayfoss driver, and i'll see if there is ANYTHING i can do to make it fit with the original driver.. If not i'll still buy the Rayfoss driver off of you for testing, or return it to you and use a FlexDrive.

Did you manage to pay for it with PayPal?



Well, your laser lacks a heatsink, which is not too good for the power nor the diode... They last longer when cooled...

I could always make you a box-laser with three Li-Ions and the Rkcstr
driver, separated from the diode with distance, so as not to cook it and of course a big heatsink on it?

Like an altoids box, which i'm making for another member here. :yh:


(see the pic for the PHR rubber banded to the battery hahaha)
(and yes the heat shrink tubing over the wire solder joint is still un-heatshrinked lolz)

I saw it... What's the laser on the right? What host is that?


PS: I shouldn't really be buying anything considering I'm broke.
But if it helps ya make some $ for the 8x murder I'm in for it.

Hey, you and me both, brother...
I am, or rather will be broke in a day or two, when i order two more 8x's for the MURDER pool... :evil:


Anyway, i'll do my best to prepare you an affordable kit for your laser build, but i'd really like to see the parts for myself, so it would be done right, ok?

There is no reason the laser should not be as good as it possibly can! :yh:
 
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woohoo! I'm so happy they arrived ok.

(doing the scopeguy avatar dance)

Yea the krytons are amazing. I think there is a modest sized link in my sig for where to order them :thinking:


I've seen that link... It's very modest in size.. :yh:

However, let me correct just one thing.... The Kryton groove is the thing with PERFECT heatsinking, not just near-perfect, when a boost driver is used to introduce no unnecesary extra heat...


But the Kryton beast! Now that really WOULD have a duty cycle of one week for an 8x! :cryyy: And i'm not kidding!

I wonder if the diode can survive that long at 400mW+ but we will find out soon enough! :evil:


The Kryton Beast will be a big hit when the 900mW diodes come out! :angel:
 
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I've seen that link... :yh: It's very modest..

However, let me correct just one thing.... The Kryton groove is the thing with PERFECT heatsinking, not just near-perfect, when a boost driver is used to introduce no unnecesary extra heat...


But the Kryton beast! Now that really WOULD have a duty cycle of one week for an 8x! :cryyy: And i'm not kidding!

I wonder if the diode can survive that long at 400mW+ but we will find out soon enough! :evil:

The sig says perfect :)

Sorry I gotta threadjack for a second.

You heard it here guys! Lets get some more kryton orders!

(back on topic)

krtyon + IgorT's building = WIN^WIN

"did he just say WIN to the power of WIN?"

"yes he did"
 
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krtyon + IgorT's building = WIN^WIN

"did he just say WIN to the power of WIN?"

"yes he did"



Thank you Bryce! I'll do my best to make as good a lazor as possible with your Kryton Groove 8x! :yh:


Otherwise, did i mention, that your two hosts and Glenn's diodes arrived this morning? I forgot.... :evil:


They came together with a Brother PTouch label printer, that Jay recommended? (Thank you Jay! I LOVE the label printer, i've been playing and experimenting all day long! Did you know it can "speak" Slovenian? :D)




Not to mention a $150 order of six more costly hosts, which i managed to pass as an order of "$23 TOTAL" in flashlights! :angel:

No customs feez, thanks to some sneaky behavior on my part.... :whistle:



EDIT: Where are the rubber inserts for your groove?
I couldn't find them inside, i have a surgical scalpel, and i know how to insert them flawlessly, since i already assembled mine (with flaws)...

I need to clean the grooves, but i'd really prefer to put the rubber in myself, so you get a finished lazor!!


P.S. Is my new sig ok?
 
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Not to mention a $150 order of six more costly hosts, which i managed to pass as an order of "$23 TOTAL" in flashlights! :angel:

No customs feez, thanks to some sneaky behavior on my part.... :whistle:


Where are the rubber inserts for your groove?
I couldn't find them inside, i have a surgical scalpel, and i know how to insert them flawlessly, since i already assembled mine (with flaws)...

Dang I didn't send them. I forgot. I'll toss them in an envelop and send them to you. It'll probably take two weeks to get there, but I'll have to wait that long for the money anyway. Thanks again!
 
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Dang I didn't send them. I forgot. I'll toss them in an envelop and send them to you. It'll probably take two weeks to get there, but I'll have to wait that long for the money anyway. Thanks again!

Yes, toss them in a first class air envelope and ship to me with the customs declaration stating "rubber inserts - $3"....


I'll have to clean the grooves i noticed there is a lot of dirt lodged in them!
But building this lazor is gonna be a joy! :evil:
 





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