Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

FS: 1.8-2W 445nm Maglite 2C Laser!






I wasn't able to get the switch out with of my hex wrenches. I followed the maglite instruction sheet Jayrob posted above, but wasn't sure what size The #22 hex is. I assumed it was a very very small one,and none of mine seemed to want to grab and turn anything in the switch.

That's very interesting that your heatsink wasn't cemented. I really can't see why mine was. The heatsink body and lip fit perfectly in the head once I ground all the epoxy out of it.

I did notice a screw hole on the side of the heatsink. Why is that here?

Try a Torx T-8 for the switch...

This is the wrench for most of the newer D Mags. Maybe it's the same for the C Mags...
 
Last edited:
Live and let live, when these people start ripping people off, then there can be problems. But I have had absolutely nothing but the best of service from both matt and jeff, so I don't understand the problems, but who gives a shit. Let it go, and don't bother with it. No need to type more insults now, your both good guys and good people.
 
I'm with jake on this one. We don't want to say anything we might regret.
Live and let live, when these people start ripping people off, then there can be problems. But I have had absolutely nothing but the best of service from both matt and jeff, so I don't understand the problems, but who gives a shit. Let it go, and don't bother with it. No need to type more insults now, your both good guys and good people.
 
I just ended up drilling out the whole top plastic piece of the switch assembly, and then hammered in a hex key and got the set screw out. All of the instructions I found online said it was a 5/64 hex key, so that's what I assumed it was. And I didn't have any torx keys that fit to try. Going to pick up another c mag today to get a new switch out of.

Isn't the flexmodp3 supposed to have a resistor soldered on it?
 
Finally Recieved my sparkles sparkler,
Havent had a chance to start dismembering it yet.
Well keep let ya'll know how it turns out... Just how the batteries
fit is very discouraging...Ah well first build.. gunna be a rebuild.
Thanks all for the help already.

RDCII
 
Ok quick question.
How do I get the axizs module out with diode from this heatsink?
I looked in the diode set screw hole.. nothing.. do i just push it out???

Thanks,
RDCII
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20110401-00068.jpg
    IMG-20110401-00068.jpg
    117.8 KB · Views: 307
there has to be a set screw in there unless the aixiz module is just falling out of it, other wise it would slide out because there would be nothing holding it in there. So you need to get a small allen wrench and stick it in there and turn it counter clockwise, you'll feel the module free up, then you can simply slide the heatsink off of it.
 
Thank you good sir,
wasnt trying small enough allen..
Got it now..
Now to get this damn Switch out..
:)

RDCII
 
It looks like I was the only one lucky enough to get the superglue special. Did any of you guys see any evidence at all of the heatsink being cemented, or did yours just slide right out?
 
Not one drop of cement anywhere in mine brad.
It almost fell out when I unscrew the retaining cap..
and also, I got my switch out.. Used a allen wrench size
mentioned above.. BUT...after much beating/bitching
I got it out.. and to my surprize do I see..
A STAR ALLEN bolt.. I was using a standard one...
Must be there "Special" tool they use.. also sell.. mmmmm

Good luck,
Seems each where built a little diffrent except the twist tie part... lol

RDCII
 
Yeah, the set screw in mine does look kinda like a torx key. But I had to mutilate it pretty bad to get it out, so I can't even really tell anymore lol.

How did you get the front assembly out before you took the switch itself out? There was no spare wire in mine, so I had to get the switch out with the front piece at the same time.

And there was no adhesive holding the heatsink in on mine either.

What is a good way to separate the regulator on the driver from the heatsink? Should it be pretty easy to break the adhesive's bond with a thin knife or something?
 
Last edited:
lol I twisted the shit outta the top part and tore the wires... didnt hurt anything. I knew I was gunna replace all I can anyhow.
 
Know whats funny? DTR! He stole Sparkles disclaimer and used it for himself. LOL!
445nm Blue Laser Diode W/ lens Max Output 1.5-2W - eBay (item 170622205787 end time Apr-29-11 10:50:16 PDT)

You might want to flip that around. And it was not my disclaimer to begin with. I borrowed it from Chuck over @ Aixiz. As I have stated in the past:p

The diodes I sell still have the ribbon attached with the solder blobs. There is no way to test them for efficiency unless it is removed the diode mounted and leads attached to a bench supply. I only leave them there for people like you who would question my integrity.

Nice username.
th_SmileyFinger53.gif
 
Last edited:
Know whats funny? DTR! He stole Sparkles disclaimer and used it for himself. LOL!
445nm Blue Laser Diode W/ lens Max Output 1.5-2W - eBay (item 170622205787 end time Apr-29-11 10:50:16 PDT)

Also funny, he lists all his lasers as 2W. I am guessing he uses the same diode in every single one.
OH WOW, THIS LASER IS 2.1W!
SO IS THIS ONE!
AND THIS ONE!

LOL!

Who wants to bet that he tests all the diodes and sells the weak ones?

Except sparkles actually took it from DTR
 


Back
Top