Let me know if the parts that you wanted to see are not clearly visible, and I'll grab a few more shots while the laser is still in bits.
Yes, thanks, from that perspective in 2nd photo, is hard to tell size of crystals. Can you get a pic from the side, so that we can see how long the crystals are? Like this -
Also, see if you can get a shot of diode (may need to put some light on it) inside hole. Like this -
Ok, I hooked up the laser to a multimeter, and it was reading around 200mA whilst outputting 14mW.
That seems a little high, perhaps they had to set it higher because this unit has crystal alignment problems?
After a bit of playing around, I set it to 303mA with a max output of 40mW
Cool! But should be a bit brighter, sounds like this one might have similar problem to Pen #1 that Bob_Boyce mentioned in his first post in this thread -
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/dx-true-5mw-green-review-43006.html
BTW, I would
NOT try to re-align the crystals like he did unless you know
EXACTLY what you are doing! One of the other members tried to do that on a high-power module, and killed it!
40mw is still a good laser for that price! :yh:
Now can anyone tell me HTH I put this thing back together lol
The three parts of the module just screw back together!
BTW, if you can get them apart without destroying the dang things, you might want to mod the other two, as you may be able to get up to 70mw or more out of them!
If you do mod them, compare them with this one (driver, crystals, diode), and see if they are all identical!
Did your LPM readings include IR?
Is hard to tell from angle of photo - if you look dead-on at top of that tiny crystal, is it perfect square shape on end?
If you look down into hole below crystals with magnifying glass, is the top of the diode an open-case type?
If you look at back of diode from resistor side (like in 1st photo), those two non-ground (have black around them) pins coming-out of diode, do those bend-out, bend-in, or straight to connect to driver? In other words, is the spacing between those pins on the diode narrower, wider, or the same as the spacing between them where they solder to the driver?
Thanks! :thanks:
@Shogoki:
At these current levels, strong batteries are pretty important. With my new DX high-power module, even brand-new alkaline AAA's aren't strong enough to power it fully!
@bryce007:
These "drivers" don't seem to keep a constant current at varying voltages. I'm using mine in a waterproof rayfoss host, with one 16340, and it made a huge difference in the current output. I plugged it in the first time, and it said over 500ma out of box.
There was a big discussion about this in another thread. The problem is that these drivers are not designed to go above ~3V. The driver was designed to provide high current, with low voltage in, and not require an expensive buck/boost regulator. The flip side is that if you feed this design more voltage than it was designed to handle, the driver malfunctions! :cryyy: It also severely overheats / destroys some of the parts!
If you want to run this with higher-voltage batteries, you will need to use diodes or something similar to bring the voltage down to a safe level.
BTW, I think I found out why my laser is now brighter. At a distance of 2', I now get a total spot size about 1' across! :huh:
No worries, though - the beam width, and the actual "intense" part of the beam, are still thin. What I appear to be looking at is a Gaussian distribution pattern! :yh: I suppose this extra stuff is what the aperture is designed to block?