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I tested my True 5's output. One was 14mw, and the other two 19/20mw.
Going to try and take the 14 apart
Good luck! hope you get it done successfully w/o killing the housing.
If you do, tell me how! haha
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FrozenGate by Avery
dx true 5
- Thread starter john_lawson
- Start date
Good luck! hope you get it done successfully w/o killing the housing.
If you do, tell me how! haha
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Thanks, I think it worked 
I couldn't see what was so hard TBH, I just followed the instructions given earlier... it gets easier once it's out a little ways
It's getting late here now, so I'll try the mod tomorrow and get back with the results.
I don't suppose anyone could give a noob tips on how to adjust the alignment/optics for optimum performance? Is it fairly straightforward, or would I need some specialized tools?
I couldn't see what was so hard TBH, I just followed the instructions given earlier... it gets easier once it's out a little ways
It's getting late here now, so I'll try the mod tomorrow and get back with the results.
I don't suppose anyone could give a noob tips on how to adjust the alignment/optics for optimum performance? Is it fairly straightforward, or would I need some specialized tools?
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bryce007
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nice work. Maybe it could be that I was using fake leather? Or maybe mine had more glue? Or maybe I just suck, lol.
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+1, maybe i just suck too.. I haven't put effort into cracking this one yet as i don't have leather lying around.. but i'll try to find something grippy and give it a go soon.
but my ebay one was just a ***** to open! probably because it's different.
EDIT:
Okay so i just tried wriggling it back n forth with one of those rubber things that you use to open jars.. no luck =[
I thought the rubber thing would be enough cushion to go ahead and use some kind of clampy tool (dont know what its called) and use that to help, but instead i put a scratch in the cap.. crap..
its okay though, just a small tiny scratch that looks like it could've been a manufacture defect.
anyways.. no luck whatsoever.
In the process, I did end up misaligning the button to the clip. I guess i twisted the back end too much..
DANGIT! this sucks.
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OMG!!!
That's the new DX green module!!!
If correct, then there is a LOT we can tell you about that!
Awesome pics, BTW! :kewlpics:
Will post more shortly, but want Greendream to see this right away...
Greendream, before you pass out for the night, can you do us a favor?
Get a pic of the backside of the module (so you can see where the pins go into the diode case).
Then carefully unscrew the bottom-most piece of the brass module (the part of the brass closest to the driver, and that has the shortest outside length of the 3 brass pieces), carefully lift the rest of the module off of it, and get a pic or two of the crystal set?
Thanks! :thanks:
That's the new DX green module!!!
If correct, then there is a LOT we can tell you about that!
Awesome pics, BTW! :kewlpics:
Will post more shortly, but want Greendream to see this right away...
Greendream, before you pass out for the night, can you do us a favor?
Get a pic of the backside of the module (so you can see where the pins go into the diode case).
Then carefully unscrew the bottom-most piece of the brass module (the part of the brass closest to the driver, and that has the shortest outside length of the 3 brass pieces), carefully lift the rest of the module off of it, and get a pic or two of the crystal set?
Thanks! :thanks:
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LOL!!
you seem so excited.
Are these capable of more power??
you seem so excited.
Are these capable of more power??
bryce007
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Mine was the same module as well, but I can't get it out of the rayfoss host to take a pic, lol
OK, this officially sucks! :cryyy:
I have one of those True 5's, that I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to open for weeks now! :yabbmad:
I even went out and bought a cheap Chinese pliers (to match my cheap Chinese pointer
) that better matched the size, to try to brute-force it off!
While I put enough force on it to dent and badly mangle the aperture cap (to the point that I can tell you the base metal of that cap is not silver!
), and scratched the hell out of the cap, and even tweaked the middle of the case so the pen is no longer straight 
, I still couldn't get it to budge even a fraction of a millimeter! :yabbmad:
After seeing Greendreams pics, I noticed what appeared to be a "lip" on the inside end of the aperture cap, and gave me the idea that perhaps the case is heated and then the module fit into it (so that when the case cools, it clamps firmly around that lip?)
Inspired, I tried heating that part of the outside of the case just south of the aperture cap with a hair dryer (not enough to damage anything, just to get it nice and toasty), then grabbed the aperture cap with my pliers, and pulled with all my might!
...and pulled the damn pen in half! :wtf:
It seems the threads on the top half of the pen (that screw into the module end) are not part of the top half of the pen, but is a small, separate piece, that is ALSO press-fit into the pen!
That small piece was still screwed into the module end snuggly, while I was holding the battery end in my other hand and trying to figure-out what the hell had just happened!
(Apparently this is why the pen was no longer straight, as I had managed to loosen this center piece in my previous attempts)
And even after enugh force to pull the thing into two pieces...the aperture cap STILL hasn't budged at all! :banghead:
Any suggestions? :thinking:
--------------
Ever since I peered down into the aperture cap of my new True 5 with a jeweler's loupe, saw the threads on the inside of the cap, and what the end of the module looked like, I had strongly suspected that the new True 5's were using the new modules that DX had just released, like this one! -
DealExtreme: $46.81 200mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm)
(Note that price, compared to the $135 O-Like 200mw module!)
and which I and others have been studying here in great detail.
I had most recently been studying the driver circuit used in those new modules, and when I saw Greendream's close-up pics, I instantly recognized it as the same driver!
(Indeed, I had determined that this circuit could not handle much more than 3V, and had suggested to someone just a day ago that the reason might be that these modules were specifically designed for use in pen hosts!)
Likewise, that partially-threaded end, lens & lens nut design, and that 3-piece, screw-apart brass module, are also all identical!
Depending on exactly what we see in those pics I requested, I can identify different ways of tuning these up, and be able to tell what these True 5's are fully capable of doing!
I have one of those True 5's, that I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to open for weeks now! :yabbmad:
I even went out and bought a cheap Chinese pliers (to match my cheap Chinese pointer
) that better matched the size, to try to brute-force it off!While I put enough force on it to dent and badly mangle the aperture cap (to the point that I can tell you the base metal of that cap is not silver!
), and scratched the hell out of the cap, and even tweaked the middle of the case so the pen is no longer straight , I still couldn't get it to budge even a fraction of a millimeter! :yabbmad:After seeing Greendreams pics, I noticed what appeared to be a "lip" on the inside end of the aperture cap, and gave me the idea that perhaps the case is heated and then the module fit into it (so that when the case cools, it clamps firmly around that lip?)
Inspired, I tried heating that part of the outside of the case just south of the aperture cap with a hair dryer (not enough to damage anything, just to get it nice and toasty), then grabbed the aperture cap with my pliers, and pulled with all my might!
...and pulled the damn pen in half! :wtf:
It seems the threads on the top half of the pen (that screw into the module end) are not part of the top half of the pen, but is a small, separate piece, that is ALSO press-fit into the pen!
That small piece was still screwed into the module end snuggly, while I was holding the battery end in my other hand and trying to figure-out what the hell had just happened!
(Apparently this is why the pen was no longer straight, as I had managed to loosen this center piece in my previous attempts)
And even after enugh force to pull the thing into two pieces...the aperture cap STILL hasn't budged at all! :banghead:
Any suggestions? :thinking:
--------------
Ever since I peered down into the aperture cap of my new True 5 with a jeweler's loupe, saw the threads on the inside of the cap, and what the end of the module looked like, I had strongly suspected that the new True 5's were using the new modules that DX had just released, like this one! -
DealExtreme: $46.81 200mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm)
(Note that price, compared to the $135 O-Like 200mw module!
)and which I and others have been studying here in great detail.
I had most recently been studying the driver circuit used in those new modules, and when I saw Greendream's close-up pics, I instantly recognized it as the same driver!
(Indeed, I had determined that this circuit could not handle much more than 3V, and had suggested to someone just a day ago that the reason might be that these modules were specifically designed for use in pen hosts!
)Likewise, that partially-threaded end, lens & lens nut design, and that 3-piece, screw-apart brass module, are also all identical!
Depending on exactly what we see in those pics I requested, I can identify different ways of tuning these up, and be able to tell what these True 5's are fully capable of doing!
bryce007
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hmm, I may have missed the part about the 200mw DX module being a good buy. I'll have to read more of that thread. I know that MarioMaster's module was DOA, but other than that, I haven't researched much. Yea that tip was hard to get off. I actually had to put an allen wrench in the head, and try to pry it out. I got it to the point where it was getting a little loose, then I pulled it out with the pliers. It definitely wasn't as easy as John and Bob make it to be, lol!
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remember a small turn counter clockwise will increase power/ current so be carefull
Well, it sounded like a good idea...
I now have a hexagon-shaped aperture hole
, and a warped dot shape!
How did you do that, without destroying the hole? Or getting metal shavings into the lens below?
But still no luck - it still didn't budge at all! :cryyy:
On the plus side, I noticed that the dot had gotten a lot brighter, and a quick check with my homemade thermal meter verified - My True 5 used to be slightly below my <10mw (although better beam visibility), it is now significantly stronger! :yh: (Have to hook-up my homemade optical meter when I get a chance, and get more specifics).
Apparently, the aperture was blocking part of my beam!
While I have it in pieces anyway, I also ran some current tests, using the same set-up I used to test my new 100mw module.
Running-off of 2 alkaline AA's, 170ma to the driver - so right in line with what others have reported at LPF for this model.
I now have a hexagon-shaped aperture hole
, and a warped dot shape! How did you do that, without destroying the hole? Or getting metal shavings into the lens below?
But still no luck - it still didn't budge at all! :cryyy:
On the plus side, I noticed that the dot had gotten a lot brighter, and a quick check with my homemade thermal meter verified - My True 5 used to be slightly below my <10mw (although better beam visibility), it is now significantly stronger! :yh: (Have to hook-up my homemade optical meter when I get a chance, and get more specifics).
Apparently, the aperture was blocking part of my beam!
While I have it in pieces anyway, I also ran some current tests, using the same set-up I used to test my new 100mw module.
Running-off of 2 alkaline AA's, 170ma to the driver - so right in line with what others have reported at LPF for this model.
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Thanks guys.
I'll be back with more pics in a bit...
I'll be back with more pics in a bit...
bryce007
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Yea, if you use the module in a different host, make sure to set the current with the batteries you plan to use. These "drivers" don't seem to keep a constant current at varying voltages. I'm using mine in a waterproof rayfoss host, with one 16340, and it made a huge difference in the current output. I plugged it in the first time, and it said over 500ma out of box. I quickly disconnected and turned the pot all the way down, then went from there.
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Ok, I hooked up the laser to a multimeter, and it was reading around 200mA whilst outputting 14mW. After a bit of playing around, I set it to 303mA with a max output of 40mW :eg:
Now can anyone tell me HTH I put this thing back together lol :anyone:
Is this what you meant seoguy?
Let me know if the parts that you wanted to see are not clearly visible, and I'll grab a few more shots while the laser is still in bits.
Now can anyone tell me HTH I put this thing back together lol :anyone:
Is this what you meant seoguy?
Let me know if the parts that you wanted to see are not clearly visible, and I'll grab a few more shots while the laser is still in bits.
Shogoki
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hmm.. hooking it up to a 3.3VDC power supply rated to provide 14.0A (it's a computer PSU since i couldn't get a hold of anything else to hold a steady amount of power)...
and messing around with the pot... i was only able to turn it up to 228mA max.. uhh.. even using batteries.. i was getting around the 220mA range on ave max..
any explanation? :thinking:
uhh.. you put it back in the same way to took it out..? slide in the module straight in and aligned so the button is well.. supposed to go where it is.
and messing around with the pot... i was only able to turn it up to 228mA max.. uhh.. even using batteries.. i was getting around the 220mA range on ave max..
any explanation? :thinking:
uhh.. you put it back in the same way to took it out..? slide in the module straight in and aligned so the button is well.. supposed to go where it is.
