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FrozenGate by Avery

CLOSED - COLLECTING $ Dorcy Jnr GB - $15.00 Shipped- 07/12/09

i recieved my host today, and the dorcy has a different style. the pill is completely different and a pain to take out. the head of the host is cut. the smooth part at the top isnt there anymore.

dorcy.jpg


the red part is the area thats not there so its basically shorter.
and when i put the heatsink that is also used in the silverbody build, is not large enough.
hopefully the original heatsinks are the correct ones.

It is a good thing we didn't go with full body heat sinks then.

The part number is the same. Even the illustration on the back of the package shows the other style (smooth end).

I am building one for a member of the GB once the heat sinks get here. I should be able to tell if we need to alter them. :(

Peace,
dave
 





It is a good thing we didn't go with full body heat sinks then.

The part number is the same. Even the illustration on the back of the package shows the other style (smooth end).

I am building one for a member of the GB once the heat sinks get here. I should be able to tell if we need to alter them. :(

Peace,
dave

alright. i just cant believe that we might have to change and buy heatsinks if they do have tobe altered.
i mean, im very grateful that this GB was set up and that we received some of the very few dorcys left. but im shocked that the dorcy company changed this style and that the heatsinks might not fit these hosts.
 
Yup i have one of the new ones ..ugh.. i didnt even notice that it was different.

Mattmagic how did you get the guts out?

1577-img-0355.jpg


1576-img-0354.jpg


1575-img-0353.jpg
 
Those bastards!
Looks fatter around too
Can you measure the inside circumference of both the old and new.
 
This is going to be a problem. The old tutorial will not work. There is NO "pill."

The emitter, reflector and lens are "pressed" in from the front. To get the emitter, reflector, and lens out you need to get a socket (or other tube/bar) that fits in the rear. Set the head down on a piece of leather (or similar). Put the socket in the rear and give it a smack. The lens will "pop" out the front. The rest of the parts just slide out then.

The biggest challenge for us now is that the front of the head is wider (dia) than the rear of the head! We cannot just slip the heat sink in the rear and have it "stop" up against the lip at the front.

We can still push the stock driver out the front of the host, but the spring is very different now (without a pill). The black disc is still there, but we will have to alter the way the battery contact is handled.

Time to get the fabricator's fired up

Those bastards!
Looks fatter around too
Can you measure the inside circumference of both the old and new.


The front of the head is 24mm ID (with a very small lip). The rear of the head is only 21.5mm ID!

Peace,
dave
 
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Yup i have one of the new ones ..ugh.. i didnt even notice that it was different.

Mattmagic how did you get the guts out?

there is a plastic ring around that top that is part of the lens.
i started cutting from the middle of the lens and worked my way around.
then i just screwed around with the plastic ring but i would suggest filing it down. then take needle nose pliers and try to get a good grip of the ring and pry it out.
then your gonna have to push your hardest to push out the pcb under the reflector from the bottom of the head. (like in your first picture)
then a black spacer and the pcb shoudl come out.
 
This is going to be a problem. The old tutorial will not work. There is NO "pill."

The emitter, reflector and lens are "pressed" in from the front. To get the emitter, reflector, and lens out you need to get a socket (or other tube/bar) that fits in the rear. Set the head down on a piece of leather (or similar). Put the socket in the rear and give it a smack. The lens will "pop" out the front. The rest of the parts just slide out then.

The biggest challenge for us now is that the front of the head is wider (dia) than the rear of the head! We cannot just slip the heat sink in the rear and have it "stop" up against the lip at the front.

We can still push the stock driver out the front of the host, but the spring is very different now (without a pill). The black disc is still there, but we will have to alter the way the battery contact is handled.

Time to get the fabricator's fired up




The front of the head is 24mm ID (with a very small lip). The rear of the head is only 21.5mm ID!

Peace,
dave

this is gonna be a toughy.
and also, are your measurement from the inside or outside of the head?
 
there is a plastic ring around that top that is part of the lens.
i started cutting from the middle of the lens and worked my way around.
then i just screwed around with the plastic ring but i would suggest filing it down. then take needle nose pliers and try to get a good grip of the ring and pry it out.
then your gonna have to push your hardest to push out the pcb under the reflector from the bottom of the head. (like in your first picture)
then a black spacer and the pcb shoudl come out.

My "smack" technique above works very easily.

Peace,
dave
 
Up for sale brand new dorcy jr. plus heatsink.
just kidding;)

I'm sure we can figure something out. I'm not to worried about that. I'm just concerned with the fit of the heatsink. If it was smaller it could be shaved down to fit. Just pay a few extra dollars and have them shipped back to dark horse.
Bigger is a bit of a problem their is not much you can do.

Dave,
from the lip of the host where the aixiz module for the diode would end. How far is it to the tip of the battery?
 
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Up for sale brand new dorcy jr. plus heatsink.
just kidding;)
I'm sure we can figure something out. I'm not to worried about that. I'm just concerned with the fit of the heatsink. If it was smaller it could be shaved down to fit. Just pay a few extra dollars and have them shipped back to dark horse.
Bigger is a bit of a problem their is not much you can do.

Dave,
from the lip of the host where the aixiz module for the diode would end. How far is it to the tip of the battery?

Assuming a flush finish at the front of the laser it is 30mm from the front to the battery. Allowing 2mm for the diode pins out the rear of the aiXiz module head, we will have ~17mm from the back of the diode pins to the top of the battery.

ya but i tried it with the back of a heavy duty screw driver and it wouldnt come out. not even a budge.

You need to have the head sitting on a solid surface with the socket/tube/bar in the back. Then you need to SMACK it with a hammer! You have to force the plastic of the lens to deform slightly to get past the lip. You will not be able to do it holding it in your hand or by swinging something into it


Peace,
dave
 
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You need to have the head sitting on a solid surface with the socket/tube/bar in the back. Then you need to SMACK it with a hammer! You have to force the plastic of the lens to deform slightly to get past the lip. You will not be able to do it holding it in your hand or by swinging something into it


Peace,
dave

yaa i did that but i guess i didnt "SMACK"(:D) hard enough.
 
Assuming a flush finish at the front of the laser it is 30mm from the front to the battery. Allowing 2mm for the diode pins out the rear of the aiXiz module head, we will have ~17mm from the back of the diode pins to the top of the battery.

A aixiz module is 30mm. I can mount a small spring to the end of the module insulated by a washer or some felt and some epoxy. This will get me 34-35mm in total length. How much play is their in the battery's spring?

Hopefully dark horse can chime in, on his heatsink. Maybe these are not so new, and he has been making them correctly.
 
A aixiz module is 30mm. I can mount a small spring to the end of the module insulated by a washer or some felt and some epoxy. This will get me 34-35mm in total length. How much play is their in the battery's spring?

Hopefully dark horse can chime in, on his heatsink. Maybe these are not so new, and he has been making them correctly.

That's what I was thinking as well. There is PLENTY of play at the tail spring. It protrudes from the tail switch ~15mm!

I'm sure that Dark Horse has NOT seen these yet. As I said, the front is wider than the rear. We cannot simply slip the heat sink in the rear anymore. We are going to have to come up with some sort of "keeper/adapter" at the front or epoxy the heat sink in place.

Peace,
dave
 


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