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FrozenGate by Avery

Best settings for beamshots.

I said hard, not impossible :)

You can improvise with a a table, a bit of putty or bluetac, and on your camera, look for t shutter speed setting 'B', if four seconds are not enough. Or try the night vision mode, that increases sensitivity, and maybe it'll help the camera see things better. But be warned, night shot usually introduces noise into the picture, which can be a real pain to remove...

Good luck with your experiments :)
 





silvershot did you even acknowledge that i said check to see if your camera has a "night shot" setting. almost all newer cameras have it. i lengthens the exposure time. also what about the most obivious "get a new camera" just kidding. the most obvious is to use smoke, insense, fog maching!!!!
 
chipdouglas said:
silvershot did you even acknowledge that i said check to see if your camera has a "night shot" setting. almost all newer cameras have it. i lengthens the exposure time. also what about the most obivious "get a new camera" just kidding. the most obvious is to use smoke, insense, fog maching!!!!
Click to expand...

Sorry guys I had a tiring day, got up early in the morning, had a biology exam then went to the dentist.. I am just angry because I have a good camera and I don't see why it can't catch beamshots. I mean, it has so many options and funtcions.. Anyway, chipdouglas, the camera does not have a night shot setting.. And something you need to know is that if I put long time exposure to 4 seconds, the picture its hell bright. and even the laser dot cannot be seen...
 
that means the pic gets overexposed. the camera should reduce the aperture setting to compensate for that, how much do you see for the f-value?
 
the aperture setting. on the display you should see a shutter speed, in your case 4, and an fX, where X is between 2.5 and 10(?). that is the size of the aperture, and should be 2.5 in your case
 
Hi Silvershot,

I've done a bit of digging for you and had a look at the Kodak online manual for your camera. There is a low-light setting on it. Check the link to clarify but it seems it is on the main scene select dial on top. It raises the ISO number. The higher the ISO the more sensitive the camera is to light. It does, "add noise", as ThunderBird89 says. For noise, read grainy.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/publications/urg00868toc.jhtml?pq-path=13052

This should improve matters but it looks like your options are limited with this camera. Perhaps a way to identify if the camera is actually up to the job is to try taking video of your beams. It takes the guesswork out of the equation as the camera will optimize to get the best possible video.

There is also a, "help", function on your camera. To activate this, you select a function in the menu of the camera and press the, "T", button on the zoom. This should give you some more information about the selected function. (You'll find all that info on the Kodak site too).

Other advice previously given regards tripod and stability will all improve your chances of a better beamshot.

All that's left to say is good luck.

M
 
I have a Kodak Easyshare C-763. On top of the camera is a settings dial. I set mine for SCN. (MANUAL SCENE SELECTION) & use the setting for night shots or fireworks, & set the exposure time to 4 sec. & of course turn OFF the flash. I get good shots that way DAY or NIGHT. These cameras DO NOT SUCK. For the money, this is the BEST camera I've ever owned. You just have to take some time to learn how to use it. I just wish I could figure a way to send my up-loaded pics wherever I want them.
 
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Morgan, your research is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone for stating their opinions and any possible help you provided in any way. I will experiment on my own for a while and post the results. Phoenix77, your post was also taken into consideration and thanks for that :)

Peter
 
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N/P Peter, I hope I was of SOME help since we have similar cameras. You DID say you had a Kodak Easyshare also, didn't you ? rob
 
It doesnt matter what brand of camera you use, as long as it does long term exposures, if possible at a low f-stop.

What really matterst most, is the contrast between beam and the rest of the composition. Making a beamshot it a dark room is much easier than making one in daytime with daylight pooring in from the windows.

All camera's are essentially designed to capture images as you do: if you can't clearly see the beam, your camera won't either... unless its in total darkness and you can expose as long as you like without overexposing the rest.

About ISO: you need to use a tripod here, really. If you are doing so, doubling ISO value as the exact same effect on exposure as doubling shutter time... but the latter will not add noise.
 
Ask santa for something with manual mode next time ;)

It's probably still possible to make good beamshots with these camera's, but batteling the auto/smart/etc settings is a real pain when taking pics of anything even slightly unusual.
 
chill out dude. I told you my camera was a kodak to show you that they can take good pictures, not so that you would toss your camera. Bottom line is you need long exposure and a tripod. I don't care if you can do it on your current camera or if you spend a thousand dollars buying a new one, I'm just telling you what settings you need to be able to take good beam shots, which is what you asked for. Don't get your panties in a twist.
 
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