A really tough 445nm! Burned and fixed!

[budabob07]

Very cool that you got it working again. Also, AMAZING photos. Btw, when you soldered it, it shorted together the three wires on the broken side. Does that adversely affect the diode?

 

[chipdouglas]

the shorted wires all run to the same spot anyways.



michael.

 

[JaiNobeZ]

That is awesome!!

Btw, post a schematic of your driver (if it hasn't been done before). Any new, easy driver for me to build would be handy.

 

[sammo]

the shorted wires all run to the same spot anyways.

Yes, that is true

That is awesome!!

Btw, post a schematic of your driver (if it hasn't been done before). Any new, easy driver for me to build would be handy.

First I have to draw the schematic then I'll post it

Currently I'm designing the PCB for the laser driver with led bar battery status, laser diode temperature led bar dispay, fan on/off control, and laser shutdown in case of low battery or high diode temperature

 

[rhd]

Well - I have a $200 HL63133DG that does not work - at all. I think I'm going to duplicate your process, since I've got nothing to loose here.

My DMM shows no continuity/conductivity between the pins, so I think there must be an internal connection problem.

 

[anselm]

My fingers are crossed for you, rhd.

 

[rhd]

Not a chance - gave it a shot, but the leads were a 100th of the width of my soldering tip.

 

[sammo]

Can you see where the leads are melted/not connected?
Believe it or not, it was the same with my soldering, the leads are 1/100 of the solder tip diameter. The trick is to not touch the thin leads with your soldering tip, you just dip them for a moment into melted soldering material on the side of the tip. You have to be fast enough and very precise in order not to apply too much solder. I also mean being fast after you actually melt the solder because I think the flux does it's best work only a few seconds after melting (you probably can't apply flux to such small leads).

 

[rhd]

These leads are so thin that they melted even further when even near my soldering iron. I would imagine it's the difference between leads on diodes meant to handle 2A, and those mean to hand 0.25

 

[Pieznice29]

Impressive repair
I tried this myself earlier today, the whole thing just turned into a blob of solder

 

[conundrum]

My theory re. the reversible nonthermal output loss at higher currents.

The diode is basically a resonator at optical frequencies.
Think of it like an optical Gunn diode, where it has peak and valley currents.
So as the current rises, the optical output will increase up to a point.
As it exceeds this the optical output increase with current starts to decrease because the active region becomes saturated with electrons and holes recombining.

At even higher power levels the electrons and holes recombine in a way which does not emit light and therefore the optical output collapses.
As long as the die doesen't heat up too much this is reversible, but normally COD occurs well before this in smaller diodes.
I speculate that the larger thermal mass of the 445's crystal prevents this.

Comments?

Also re. soldering problem, has anyone considered making some magnetic solder and using that?
Ought to help as the solder heats up only rather than the entire casing.

-A

"Bother!" said Pooh, as the Phoenix failed to enter Warp...

 

[robmobz]

My personal theory is that the 3 wires are so that if you feed it too much current then 1 of them will melt rather than the whole unit.

 

[ARG]

My personal theory is that the 3 wires are so that if you feed it too much current then 1 of them will melt rather than the whole unit.

This thread is long dead, please don't bring it back from the dead.

 

[DrSid]

My bed I guess .. I linked it in another thread ..
Still it's amazing thread ..